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What ammo is subsonic, copper plated and good to shoot with can?

I can find a lot of subsonic ammo that is accurate and quiet but it all has exposed lead. Anyone know of any subsonic 22 LR ammo that is copper jacketed or plated that shoots well subsonic/suppressed in your rifle?
 
One of the few gimmick loadings that actually seems to work as advertised is Federal’s American Eagle dedicated suppressor ammo.

45 grain bullet and velocity is rated at 970 fps, and was 980 in a 24” barrel. For me has been very accurate in most and above average in the rest. No issues cycling in a of couple pistols, don’t own a rifle that is a semi auto so can’t say.
 
Thank Dellet, at 970 it should cycle. The cheap Remington works well in a bolt action and semi, most are subsonic by the time they leave the barrel..just not dependable
 
I can find a lot of subsonic ammo that is accurate and quiet but it all has exposed lead. Anyone know of any subsonic 22 LR ammo that is copper jacketed or plated that shoots well subsonic/suppressed in your rifle?


Winchester Dynapoint is pretty accurate for a bulk pack copper plated round.

What can are you using that lead build up is such a concern?
 
I found a thick layer of fatty, greasy soot buildup in my 22lr can. Nasty and really hard to clean out. Dunno if lead had anything to do with this build up, but soaking in wd-40 seamed to help. Maybe som brake cleaner or other grease removing agent can be better.

A rimfire can is so cheap anyway that I would rather toss it and get a new one than try to clean that mess again.
 
I found a thick layer of fatty, greasy soot buildup in my 22lr can. Nasty and really hard to clean out. Dunno if lead had anything to do with this build up, but soaking in wd-40 seamed to help. Maybe som brake cleaner or other grease removing agent can be better.

A rimfire can is so cheap anyway that I would rather toss it and get a new one than try to clean that mess again.

I think your culprit is coming from the wax coating and combination of powder/primer residue.
 
I found a thick layer of fatty, greasy soot buildup in my 22lr can. Nasty and really hard to clean out. Dunno if lead had anything to do with this build up, but soaking in wd-40 seamed to help. Maybe som brake cleaner or other grease removing agent can be better.

A rimfire can is so cheap anyway that I would rather toss it and get a new one than try to clean that mess again.
Drop it in an ultrasonic cleaner and all is good again.

Lloyd
 
The next time you get the baffles spotless, warm them in a oven until they are warm to the touch and drop them in DOT Class 5 brake fluid and let them soak overnight.

After 500-1,000 rounds take the can apart and the sludge just wipes away. Clean and repeat the brake fluid part.
 
This is the most effective method I've seen. My brother cleaned two rimfire cans last week in CLR/Ultrasonic and the baffles looked like new.


I've used numerous cleaners on my Axiom Ti baffles with my RCBS ultrasonic cleaner that basically didn't touch the carbon. Soaking the baffles in heated vinegar was the best method I've tried.
 
This is the most effective method I've seen. My brother cleaned two rimfire cans last week in CLR/Ultrasonic and the baffles looked like new.


I've used numerous cleaners on my Axiom Ti baffles with my RCBS ultrasonic cleaner that basically didn't touch the carbon. Soaking the baffles in heated vinegar was the best method I've tried.

That was awesome! Thanks...
 
The new Silencer Co and other cans specify not using an ultra sonic because of different materials. I have found my can stays a whole lot cleaner longer using copper bullets 1st and jacketed second...lead buildup can be hard even for an ultrasonic to remove...I use a dedicated lead chemical remover when absolutely neccesary..
 

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