What 284 Win print used?

[jawjaboy]

Several years ago when I was just getting in to F Class I had a local smith, BR competitor, true and barrel an action in 284 win for a F Class rig. He was very familiar with the 284 and I followed his recommendations. He set the freebore for the 183 smk and suggested a neck dia .318 on a Brux 1-8.5 barrel. It is a hammer.

That barrel isn't shot out yet, been out of the game for several years, but am thinking ahead when I'll need a new barrel. Unfortunately he no longer smiths and I'm unable to contact him to find out what reamer print he used.

How would you determine the chamber dimensions / print to use to duplicate that chamber?

Or recommend a print.

 

[Preacher]

Cerrosafe is your friend in a case like this..

 

[jawjaboy]

Cerrosafe is your friend in a case like this..

Copy. Found a post about casting a chamber. Thanks

 

[DocCoffee]

Late into the conversation but the other way to do this of course is to make up a dummy round with your preferred bullet seated to the depth you want and send that to whoever is making your reamer.
Kevin

 

[Preacher]

Late into the conversation but the other way to do this of course is to make up a dummy round with your preferred bullet seated to the depth you want and send that to whoever is making your reamer.
Kevin

That will not give him the exact chamber dimensions he needs..
He want's a exact match to a existing chamber...

 

[DocCoffee]

That will not give him the exact chamber dimensions he needs..
He want's a exact match to a existing chamber...

Agreed, I guess I read OP as being mostly concerned with Freebore dimension matching the bullet he wants to shoot. And unless he is using custom dies made to match the rest of the chamber dimensions are just about moot

 

[jawjaboy]

Thanks for the suggestions!

My main concern is when I find a smith for a new barrel I have a reamer print version to specify if not provide my own reamer and not rely on whatever print he has. That's assuming he isn't doing work for the f-class world and knows what the best reamer/s for the 284 is/are being used.

At the time my rig was built I knew nothing about the 284 but that smith did as he rattled off a list of what the 284 liked and didn't like for best accuracy/precision. Since this rig shoots lights out, in spite of me, apparently he had a reamer that works.

I'm guessing it's one of the known competitive prints. I just need to figure out which one it was or one that is a close match.

 

[G7BC]

Thanks for the suggestions!

My main concern is when I find a smith for a new barrel I have a reamer print version to specify if not provide my own reamer and not rely on whatever print he has. That's assuming he isn't doing work for the f-class world and knows what the best reamer/s for the 284 is/are being used.

At the time my rig was built I knew nothing about the 284 but that smith did as he rattled off a list of what the 284 liked and didn't like for best accuracy/precision. Since this rig shoots lights out, in spite of me, apparently he had a reamer that works.

I'm guessing it's one of the known competitive prints. I just need to figure out which one it was or one that is a close match.

Here’s the reamer that chambered my 284’s.
Shoots the 180/184 hybrids extremely well, winning and placing 2nd in a few 500 yd club matches. No turn neck but I skim turn Lapua brass to clean them up a bit.

 

[Henryrifle]

@jawjaboy, there are some very good gunsmiths that have championship-level reamers and can turn around a barrel pretty quickly. I have learned that it is a good idea to have a good business relationship with a good gunsmith. You will have questions and good gunsmith will have answers.

You could specify and order your own reamer and depending on where you get it, you are in for a wait--maybe 14 weeks+. This isn't a bad way to go, just know what you are getting into. I am by no means a reamer expert but have shot a lot of .284 and know a few things to stay away from.

If you want to specify your own .284 reamer, here is a good start:

1. Make sure the .200 line measures .5010 to minimize or eliminate clickers (sticking cases)
2. For a no-turn neck with Lapua brass .317 to .318 is about as big as you want to go.
3. If you are skimming (cleaning up) the necks of Lapua brass, go with .317 neck diameter.
4. If you are turning Lapua necks down to .013 or so, go with a .316 diameter. I have not tried smaller.
5. Make your freebore diameter .2848 to .2849. If you get much bigger it might only shoot when dirty.
6. Freebore of around .230 is good for Berger 180s

Reamer design has come a ways in the past few years and what was great a decade ago might not be so great today. I am not sure about freebore if using something other than 180 grain Berger Hybrids.

Hope that helps,
Hank

 

[jawjaboy]

@Henryrifle Very helpful. Thanks!

 

[jawjaboy]

Ok I found some posts by swampthang recommending the gunsmith I used for my 284 action and barrel - Charlie Ethridge X Ring Precision. I sent swampthang a PM but it appears he hasn't been active in over a year. Anyone know or is in contact with Charlie? Or know if he sold his business to another smith and who that might be? It appears there now is a X Ring Precision but it's in NC not Georgia. Maybe they took the name after Charlie stopped smithing or just bought his business.

At any rate trying another fork in the road to identify what 284 print was used in my rig.

 

[dryhumor]

Jim Bauer designed a 284 reamer that I use in a hunting rifle. The freebore might not be what you need, but with his passing, I would think JGS Precision would release a copy of the print for review. Might be useful for comparison if starting from scratch. I’m using Lapua cases, straight 284 and 6.5-284 necked up. .317 neck.

The print is labeled: Print# 284 Bauer.

 

[Preacher]

Ok I found some posts by swampthang recommending the gunsmith I used for my 284 action and barrel - Charlie Ethridge X Ring Precision. I sent swampthang a PM but it appears he hasn't been active in over a year. Anyone know or is in contact with Charlie? Or know if he sold his business to another smith and who that might be? It appears there now is a X Ring Precision but it's in NC not Georgia. Maybe they took the name after Charlie stopped smithing or just bought his business.

At any rate trying another fork in the road to identify what 284 print was used in my rig.

Did you ever do a chamber cast ??

 

[jawjaboy]

Did you ever do a chamber cast ??

Not yet. Planning to. I have some of the castalloy packed away I need to find.

Was hoping the new info I found would yield quicker results than me finding that alloy. Probably faster to breakdown and buy some more. lol

 

[Preacher]

Not yet. Planning to. I have some of the castalloy packed away I need to find.

Was hoping the new info I found would yield quicker results than me finding that alloy. Probably faster to breakdown and buy some more. lol

Brownells has the cerrosafe all I have ever used...

 

[jawjaboy]

Brownells has the cerrosafe all I have ever used...

If I recall correctly that's what I have. And I used it on one rifle but don't recall which. It's been awhile since I used it.

All that stuff was packed up for a major move. No telling which box it's in. lol

 

[Preacher]

If I recall correctly that's what I have. And I used it on one rifle but don't recall which. It's been awhile since I used it.

All that stuff was packed up for a major move. No telling which box it's in. lol

Been there done that...
Honesty, still looking in box's 30 years. later...

 

[Henryrifle]

Doug Skogman, @dskogman, an extremely good shooter posted this in 2019:

284 Reamer Print

This looks like a nice reamer to me.

Depending on what brass you are using and if you plan on turning or not, I'd change the neck to .317 or tighter and the free bore is on the long side. .235 or so works for the Berger 180 hybrid.

Hank

 

[jawjaboy]

Doug Skogman, @dskogman, an extremely good shooter posted this in 2019:

284 Reamer Print

This looks like a nice reamer to me.

Depending on what brass you are using and if you plan on turning or not, I'd change the neck to .317 or tighter and the free bore is on the long side. .235 or so works for the Berger 180 hybrid.

Hank

Thanks!