Wet WS2 Coating
- Thread starter bdale
- Start date
Well, I went from WS2 to HBN and like it better.
Which grade of HBN were you using and what liquid were you using?
Which grade of HBN were you using and what liquid were you using?
bdale
NRA Life Member
I've been using .5 micron and using it dry, didn't know you could use it wet ???
Maybe I should clarify I wasn't using HBN wet and saw some post about some doing moly wet and getting good results and others chimed in about doing WS2 wet with similar results, that is why I thought I might try WS2 since it has a lower coefficient of friction.
Maybe I should clarify I wasn't using HBN wet and saw some post about some doing moly wet and getting good results and others chimed in about doing WS2 wet with similar results, that is why I thought I might try WS2 since it has a lower coefficient of friction.
You can mix HBN grade AC6111 with alcohol at a rate of about a tablespoon to 4 oz. of alcohol applied to a patch and run down the barrel after cleaning. The alcohol dries fast and leaves you with a coating of HBN in the bore. The bottle has to be shaken often as it tends to separate.
HBN is suspended in alcohol, not dissolved.
No kidding! In your words, you can mix it in alcohol. You can't mix it due to it being insoluble. And you accomplish what by wiping something on that is going to disappear with the very first round that travels through the barrel? A superficial coating on a bullet or the inside of a barrel provides you with nothing.Uthink Uknow said:
Hi JRS, from the standpoint of someone that uses it and researches in particle physics, the previous post has got a point. Dissolving and suspending are two different concepts. Oil and water won't mix, but if you put both sealed in a container and shake it vigorously, you get a suspension of oil in water that later separates in layers. >>> Same point.
When you wipe a suspension of HBN on a barrel or on any surface for that matter, the particles of HBN get ingrained deeply into the micro porosities of the metal, and when the first shot gets fired, they get impacted by the projectile onto the surface of the barrel (HBN is a ceramic) and with the high temperature, it actually partially combines with the metal.
Same goes with the projectiles. The impact coating ONLY sticks the HBN to the surface. Then imagine that the projectile is going down the barrel on tiny bearings. That is the effect.
Also it is VERY IMPORTANT to WIPE OUT ANY LOOSE HBN DUST FROM THE PROJECTILES BEFORE SEATING THEM. Also, TAKE THE PROJS OFF THE CONTAINERS AND WIPE THEM STRAIGHT AFTER COATING THEM; don't let them stay in the tumbling container for more than 3 days, otherwise the coating will cake and accuracy suffers. In any of these two cases loose HBN gathers just in front of the bearing surface on travel, and accuracy goes out the window.
Hope it helps.
Where I found HBN to be of use, is for the fact that the first shot on a cold bore lands on the same elevation as the other shots in the group. It is a touch more accurate indeed, and you can achieve slightly wider accuracy nodes with the same velocity and a touch less pressure.
And extended accurate life of the barrel.
Check my post on one of my competition barrels. I use it last weekend for a 14 shot group club grading competition. 139.6x. on a 1.5 moa bull eye and a 0.75 moa x ring at 300 metres. The 9 was "disputable" on the edge of the 10 ring- I put it there at 12 o'clock. Shot with iron sights and a sling.
When you wipe a suspension of HBN on a barrel or on any surface for that matter, the particles of HBN get ingrained deeply into the micro porosities of the metal, and when the first shot gets fired, they get impacted by the projectile onto the surface of the barrel (HBN is a ceramic) and with the high temperature, it actually partially combines with the metal.
Same goes with the projectiles. The impact coating ONLY sticks the HBN to the surface. Then imagine that the projectile is going down the barrel on tiny bearings. That is the effect.
Also it is VERY IMPORTANT to WIPE OUT ANY LOOSE HBN DUST FROM THE PROJECTILES BEFORE SEATING THEM. Also, TAKE THE PROJS OFF THE CONTAINERS AND WIPE THEM STRAIGHT AFTER COATING THEM; don't let them stay in the tumbling container for more than 3 days, otherwise the coating will cake and accuracy suffers. In any of these two cases loose HBN gathers just in front of the bearing surface on travel, and accuracy goes out the window.
Hope it helps.
Where I found HBN to be of use, is for the fact that the first shot on a cold bore lands on the same elevation as the other shots in the group. It is a touch more accurate indeed, and you can achieve slightly wider accuracy nodes with the same velocity and a touch less pressure.
And extended accurate life of the barrel.
Check my post on one of my competition barrels. I use it last weekend for a 14 shot group club grading competition. 139.6x. on a 1.5 moa bull eye and a 0.75 moa x ring at 300 metres. The 9 was "disputable" on the edge of the 10 ring- I put it there at 12 o'clock. Shot with iron sights and a sling.
Just on another note: for best results when coating HBN it is very important to observe the next two conditions:
1- Degrease the projectiles with spray contact cleaner or similar. The lubricants used in the swaging of the projectiles must come out. You'll find on the bottom of the bowl, grit, copper flakes and dirt. You'll be surprised. Even if you shoot naked projectiles, you should do the same.
2- Heat the projectiles, containers and stainless bb's to roughly 120F- 150 F. Then quickly put the lot together with HBN and tumble it immediately so that they have no time to cool down. I use 4 hrs vibrating. Then take the projectiles straight out and wipe them.
This was brought forward by one of the best Palma shooters in the world- German Salazar from the land of the free and the home of the brave. He wrote articles on this as well. That is how I learned- from those articles.
1- Degrease the projectiles with spray contact cleaner or similar. The lubricants used in the swaging of the projectiles must come out. You'll find on the bottom of the bowl, grit, copper flakes and dirt. You'll be surprised. Even if you shoot naked projectiles, you should do the same.
2- Heat the projectiles, containers and stainless bb's to roughly 120F- 150 F. Then quickly put the lot together with HBN and tumble it immediately so that they have no time to cool down. I use 4 hrs vibrating. Then take the projectiles straight out and wipe them.
This was brought forward by one of the best Palma shooters in the world- German Salazar from the land of the free and the home of the brave. He wrote articles on this as well. That is how I learned- from those articles.
Yo, bdale...I've been using a slurry of water and WS2 for about a year, now, with great results. You need to use a plastic jar with finger indentations (large applesauce jar) and a Harbor Freight rock tumbler (the one that uses 2 tumbler barrels). Fill the aplsauce jar half full of water and add a heaping teaspoon of WS2. Dump in a box of bullets screw on jar lid and tumble for an hour or so. Adjust the tumble time, WS2 amount, and water as needed to get desired results. Bullets should come out bright and shiney - rinse with water and dry.
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