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wet tumbling question.

6Dasher said:
Watch out with your precision or neck-turned brass. Major peening after cleaning which means trimming and/or heavy chamfering. I have the high speed model but it is the bane of my brass. Looking to make it run about 1/4 the speed, else dumping it.

Radio shack has something that slows these things down. I hate electricity so could not begin to tell you what it is. But it works. Some sort of device with a rotating dial that allows me to slow or speed up.
 
Gotta chime in a little. My limited experience says that these 1/4 inch long stainless pins are not going to dent my brass. I don't use chunks of ceramics. If we are talking about the same SS media, then I have never seen this happen yet.
 
dickn52 said:
Gotta chime in a little. My limited experience says that these 1/4 inch long stainless pins are not going to dent my brass. I don't use chunks of ceramics. If we are talking about the same SS media, then I have never seen this happen yet.

You're right. The SS media doesn't have enough weight behind them to do any damage. It's the cases banging into each other that does the peening.
 
I'm with Dickn52, my pins haven't dented any of my brass yet. I'm using the harbor freight tumbler that is 2 chambers. Each chamber is good for 3 pounds. So I have a pound of pins, pound of brass and water to cover. Tumble for about an hour. Rinse and dry in the oven at low temps for about 15 minutes and done.

This gets me about 60 .223 cases in less than 2 hours total clock time. While the tumbler is running I can make dinner or chase the dog or GF ;)
 
I stainless tumble my brass after neck turning to remove the lube. The stainless pins will not dent your brass. If you look at your brass after stainless tumbling under a microscope they may look like dents.
I don't know why anyone would want to slow down the tumbler. I would speed it up if anything. Simply changing the pulley would work.
 
armaster said:
I stainless tumble my brass after neck turning to remove the lube. The stainless pins will not dent your brass. If you look at your brass after stainless tumbling under a microscope they may look like dents.
I don't know why anyone would want to slow down the tumbler. I would speed it up if anything. Simply changing the pulley would work.
Well on my model B, the pully length is set. I can't see anyway to change the length of it.
 
dickn52 said:
armaster said:
I stainless tumble my brass after neck turning to remove the lube. The stainless pins will not dent your brass. If you look at your brass after stainless tumbling under a microscope they may look like dents.
I don't know why anyone would want to slow down the tumbler. I would speed it up if anything. Simply changing the pulley would work.
Well on my model B, the pully length is set. I can't see anyway to change the length of it.

Get a different drive pulley from your hardware store and a new belt with the right length for the new combination. Smaller to go slower and larger to go faster.

If confused, have a friend do it for you.
 
amlevin said:
dickn52 said:
armaster said:
I stainless tumble my brass after neck turning to remove the lube. The stainless pins will not dent your brass. If you look at your brass after stainless tumbling under a microscope they may look like dents.
I don't know why anyone would want to slow down the tumbler. I would speed it up if anything. Simply changing the pulley would work.
Well on my model B, the pully length is set. I can't see anyway to change the length of it.

Get a different drive pulley from your hardware store and a new belt with the right length for the new combination. Smaller to go slower and larger to go faster.

If confused, have a friend do it for you.
Wouldn't the larger pulley make it slower and the smaller pulley make it faster?
 
Increasing the size of either pulley on the motor's drive shaft or the secondary drive pulley, you will decrease the drum's rpm.

I bought the Model B a while back but found myself spending a lot of time loading / unloading it. Since then I built my own, which does about 20lbs of brass in 1 hour. Since someone brought up the pulleys, I initially set it up for 45 RPM, but later changed they pulley on my secondary drive shaft from a 4" to a 3.5" to give it a little more drum speed, around 67 RPM.
 
JP351 said:
Increasing the size of either pulley on the motor's drive shaft or the secondary drive pulley, you will decrease the drum's rpm.

Ahem! If you increase the size of the drive pulley (leaving the size of the driven pulley the same) the drum speed will increase.

Due to mounting limitations it's often the drive (Motor shaft) pulley that is changed. Larger to speed up, smaller to slow down. Making the large pulley on the drum drive shaft larger usually causes one to run out of room in one direction or another.
 
amlevin said:
JP351 said:
Increasing the size of either pulley on the motor's drive shaft or the secondary drive pulley, you will decrease the drum's rpm.

Ahem! If you increase the size of the drive pulley (leaving the size of the driven pulley the same) the drum speed will increase.

Due to mounting limitations it's often the drive (Motor shaft) pulley that is changed. Larger to speed up, smaller to slow down. Making the large pulley on the drum drive shaft larger usually causes one to run out of room in one direction or another.

I stand corrected. That's what I get for posting late at night! Before I changed my ratio, I swapped the drive and driven pulleys around, and the motor just didn't have the power to turn a 60-70lb drum. Still curious where I would stop seeing results with tumbling with respect to RPM. At some higher RPM the tumbling action should be lost.
 
Good read. Even the underhanded insult to my intelligence was kinda cute. But I come back to the basics and want to know why we are discussing this? The purpose is to do what again please?
 
JP351 said:
Still curious where I would stop seeing results with tumbling with respect to RPM. At some higher RPM the tumbling action should be lost.

You could always install a fractional hp 3-phase motor and Variable Frequency Drive (controller) on it. Vary the speed as you so desired.

Shouldn't cost more than about $250-$300 if you shop around.


BTW, this is a great "upgrade" for a drill press. Beats changing belts.
 
Was getting some case mouth peening when running the high speed motor. There was a long thread on this on the Shiloh Sharps forum (primarily BPCR) about a year ago. Consensus was that using the low speed motor, using ceramic media and filling the drum to ~2" of being full of water (and your favorite magic cleaning mix) would stop the peening. Called Thumler's and bought low speed motor, Arizona Sharpshooter's for the small ceramic media (a real PITA to use for 6mm and smaller calibers) and started filling the drum to within 2" of being full. As advertised, peening has been greatly reduced, if not stopped. Think another key to prevent peening is to have enough media. Too little media seems to allow more peening, just like too little water. Have also added back about 1/3 of the stainless pins, which seems to help clean the primer pockets. YMMV.
 
The peening is due to the cases banging into each other.

A slower speed thumbler would help but if you have the high speed, you can avoid it completely by reducing the number of cases you tumble (decrease chance for collision) and also by doubling the amount of SS-media you use (act as a buffer) i.e. 10 pounds. The added advantage of doubling the SS-media is that it will clean the brass faster and so you can decrease the tumbling time which also decrease the collision.
 
jlow said:
The peening is due to the cases banging into each other.

A slower speed thumbler would help but if you have the high speed, you can avoid it completely by reducing the number of cases you tumble (decrease chance for collision) and also by doubling the amount of SS-media you use (act as a buffer) i.e. 10 pounds. The added advantage of doubling the SS-media is that it will clean the brass faster and so you can decrease the tumbling time which also decrease the collision.

I have started to just clean each box of 50 cases once I've fired them. Makes it possible to keep the same cases together in weight sorted batches with the same number of firings. Small amounts clean fast. I just keep several boxes of brass prepped ahead. One or two in the range bag, loaded, several boxes on the shelf prepped and waiting to be loaded, and one or two boxes waiting "for the laundry".

Doing only 50 cases at a time in the standard 5# of SS pins works great and no peening.
 

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