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Wet tumbler pros and cons

I really do prefer my wet tumbler, it does an awesome job but it adds steps. You have to be very careful to make sure all the media is out of every case. Dry tumbling works well too but I find it doesn't get the inside of the cases quite as clean.
 
Wet tumbling has the tendency to damage brass necks. Also way too much work.

If you really want shiny brass, put it in an ultrasonic cleaner for 45 mins with Lemishine. That will break up a lot of the powder residue. Then dry tumble with walnut media for a hour or so.
 
And some will say why do either, just wipe the necks.
Personally I tumble in corncob just because I like the shiny look and it doesn't really remove any carbon from inside the necks.
I do have an ultrasonic cleaner, but it gets used mostly for range pickup brass.
 
Wet have to dry but get primer pockets nice and clean, but also can get inside the necks too clean. Adds more steps to brass prep process.

Dry doesn't get the primer pockets very clean, takes a longer time in the machine to get nice and shiny, but simple process and when it is done, it is done.
 
Many of the complaints from wet tumbling is because people haven't thought it through.

First off, throw away your stainless pins. They damage your brass and there is the ever-lingering possibility of shooting one down your barrel.

Secondly, most are not using a good formula. The Dawn/Lemishine combination works with pins for really clean brass, but you MUST use pins. Skip the pins and use Turtle Wax "Wash and Wax" and a dash of citric acid.

Putting in too much water actually increases the time that is required to get your brass clean. Just put enough water to cover the brass. The agitation of the water helps with cleaning. Doing it this way takes only about 30-45 minutes of tumbling.

Finally, dump the water and brass through a strainer over a bucket. Rinse the brass with clean water for a few seconds. Then dump the brass into a rotary strainer and crank it for about thirty seconds. Then put the brass directly into a dehydrator or brass dryer. About an hour to hour and a half and you have very clean, dry brass.

This really doesn't take much work or much time at all.

Dry-tumbling brass gives an opportunity for lead dust to make it into the air of your enclosed reloading room. Handling dirty brass also can increase your lead exposure, but the dry tumbler putting it into the air is the biggest problem because it quickly absorbs into your lungs much like a smoker getting nicotine. My lead levels have been approaching the maximum normal limit. Things are improving by using gloves to handle range brass and only dry-tumbling brass that's already been cleaned.
 
Many of the complaints from wet tumbling is because people haven't thought it through.

First off, throw away your stainless pins. They damage your brass and there is the ever-lingering possibility of shooting one down your barrel.

Secondly, most are not using a good formula. The Dawn/Lemishine combination works with pins for really clean brass, but you MUST use pins. Skip the pins and use Turtle Wax "Wash and Wax" and a dash of citric acid.

Putting in too much water actually increases the time that is required to get your brass clean. Just put enough water to cover the brass. The agitation of the water helps with cleaning. Doing it this way takes only about 30-45 minutes of tumbling.

Finally, dump the water and brass through a strainer over a bucket. Rinse the brass with clean water for a few seconds. Then dump the brass into a rotary strainer and crank it for about thirty seconds. Then put the brass directly into a dehydrator or brass dryer. About an hour to hour and a half and you have very clean, dry brass.

This really doesn't take much work or much time at all.

Dry-tumbling brass gives an opportunity for lead dust to make it into the air of your enclosed reloading room. Handling dirty brass also can increase your lead exposure, but the dry tumbler putting it into the air is the biggest problem because it quickly absorbs into your lungs much like a smoker getting nicotine. My lead levels have been approaching the maximum normal limit. Things are improving by using gloves to handle range brass and only dry-tumbling brass that's already been cleaned.
That's exactly why I first put my brass in the ultrasonic cleaner. This removes probably 95% of the lead and other residue and it goes down the drain. After drying the brass goes into a dry tumbler but because the lead and other residue has now been removed, there is no danger of air contamination. And the walnut (or corn) stays very clean.
 
That's exactly why I first put my brass in the ultrasonic cleaner. This removes probably 95% of the lead and other residue and it goes down the drain. After drying the brass goes into a dry tumbler but because the lead and other residue has now been removed, there is no danger of air contamination. And the walnut (or corn) stays very clean.
Two ways to do the same thing.
 
Putting in too much water actually increases the time that is required to get your brass clean. Just put enough water to cover the brass. The agitation of the water helps with cleaning. Doing it this way takes only about 30-45 minutes of tumbling.
I find that putting as much water in as possible greatly reduces the peening of the case mouth. A .45 case of lemishine, squirt of Dawn, and another squirt of wash and wax for 45 minutes to an hour will get all but the dirtiest range pickup brass squeaky clean and shiney. I use the SS chips so primer pockets are clean also. I think a lot of people tumble for way too long and that's where problems start.
 
I find that putting as much water in as possible greatly reduces the peening of the case mouth. A .45 case of lemishine, squirt of Dawn, and another squirt of wash and wax for 45 minutes to an hour will get all but the dirtiest range pickup brass squeaky clean and shiney. I use the SS chips so primer pockets are clean also. I think a lot of people tumble for way too long and that's where problems start.
I don't get any peening and using less water reduced my tumble times.
 
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I used to wet tumble but found tumbling of any sort is an unnecessary step especially if you like carbon inside the necks for a natural lube. I wipe the brass down before annealing and after sizing with acetone.
 
I agree. This topic has been beaten to death. OP should do more research instead of creating another topic.
Heck, almost every topic we talk about around here has been beaten to death.

I've been a member here for almost ten years now. Every so often a thread pops up that I disagree with, and then I realize I started it five or six years ago.o_O I'm just gonna claim that I'm still "developing". jd
 
I was very pro wet tumbling with pins for a loooong time. My logic was I always start loading from the exact same brass condition every single time. I got tired of all the darn steps and decided to go the "no tumble" path. Now I wipe all.my brass down with Neverdull after depriming. This is a product used to clean the chrome on your vehicle. I think it's a type of cheese cloth with a petroleum smelling something impregnated in it. Anyway, this does a great job of getting any of the light powder stain off the neck. The alcohol in my homebrew lanolin spray takes care of the rest. Now I can skip all the wet tumbling induced steps. Especially having to lube the necks. I made it a point to watch my force gauge when seating to see if there were any changes. Slight change but still minimum variation like before. I'm happy with the outcome. I haven't been cleaning my primer pockets but so far it doesn't seem to matter. I wont knock anyone that wet tumbles. I love clean shiny brass. But. I sure as hell enjoy shooting more than cleaning.
 

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