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Weight Sorting brass?

To the original poster, if you are just starting in long range shooting don't bother, really, it's not going to make a difference in your score. There are a lot of things that you may do later trying to get one more point, but starting out it's making your system way more tedious than you need to be. Make bullets, go shoot.

AND

As someone stated earlier in this thread, there is no real correlation between weight and volume. The biggest variable in weight, esp with WW brass is how the extractor ring is cut. They are all over the place, Lapua is better, but I can't see a difference between the two on the target.

I shoot F-TR, not bench rest. I don't weigh bullets or brass. (I will weigh my powder on a Sartorius this yr, but last yr letting an RCBS Chargemaster throw my charges was good enough. I'm not convinced I'm not wasting my time with the Sartorius.) We shoot at a 1MOA 10 ring; it is very reasonable to expect to get .3 to .4 MOA accuracy from your bullets and rifle. That puts you in the X ring every shot if you read the wind. If you went though all the measurement and weights and managed to make your rig a .2MOA rig, that's only buying you about half an inch of 10 ring at 10 and 2 that you might get a beggar 10 instead of a 9 if you're holding dead on the water line.

If you're shooting at the level where a point makes the difference in winning the national championship then for your piece of mind by all means weigh everything, but if you're not shooting with a Master classification you are probably wasting a lot of time, unless you have that much time on your hands. Personally I have a hard enough time keeping up with loading for practice and shooting close to 2000 rounds a yr for record.
 

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