• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Weight sorting brass

Is it best to weight sort brass after it has all been trimmed to the same length? I had an unusual experience with some Nosler 22-250 brass. According to the factory it had been weight sorted to + or - .5 gr. for a total tolerance of 1 gr. per box. I did not check the weight before prepping the brass. I did not size the brass. I deburred the flash holes, uniformed the primer pockets, trimmed to length, and turned all of the necks,they all cleaned up all the way around). After doing all of this the weight variance for 50 rounds of brass is 2+ grs. Any advise would be helpful.
 
bg, just wondering if you have a tight neck chamber because unless you do, you probably took more brass off of the outside of the necks than you had too. Normally, on a regular chamber rifle the most you would want to take off would be just enough to make the complete diameter the same demisions. Therfore that would leave a portion of the necks not turned. Just a thought. Bill
 
Unless it's all the same length, weight sorting is pointless. Actually for weight to mean anything, all cases should trimmed and neckturned to the exact same dimension. But even trimmed, turned, and sorted to the same weight, it doesn't mean they'll have the same internal capacity which is the whole point of it all anyway. I spent an afternoon doing all that stuff, then measuring, and found that weight did not reflect case volume.
 
You are absolutely correct man. I just about got to the point that I don't pay much attention to weight anymore unless it is really far out. A whole lot more things to work with and try and control that does make a difference in accuracy for me anyway. Bill
 
I have learned that weighing Lapua brass is usually wasted effort. Other brands should be weighed before any brass is removed from the neck area. Weighing by volume is best, but requires filling and weighing with water, and thats a PIA.
 
aneal it then do all machining then weight it.after I weight it I put it into 20-25 shot relays.then I load them up and shot them over a crony.I pick the match brass by the closest speeds.I through out highs and lows.
 
Why would you want to anneal new brass ?

If it wasn't Lapua you would probably be doing it a favor
At least it would all be the same....
 
All new,at least all the brands that I've bought) brass has been annealed. Even if the annealing isn't that consistent, I doubt that without a Ken Light annealer or the like we could get it any more consistent with the various single case methods.
 
Annealing new brass is pointless. It's already annnealed. You don't see the colors because on domestic brass they've been polished out. Lapua and IMI, and probably other foreign brands, don't do this. .
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,254
Messages
2,214,815
Members
79,495
Latest member
panam
Back
Top