dawgmaster said:
I just purchased a T36 Weaver...just exactly what does the rear adjustment accomplish? I'm talking about the rear eye piece bell... it obviously has a locking ring and turns in and out, but after adjusting back and forth I couldn't really make out any difference? Possibly it made the cross hair sharper/crisper at different settings?
Also I generally shoot Burris Fullfield IIs...4.5-14X42s although they aren't expensive scopes they do seem clearer then this Weaver???? Is that just do to the fact that the Weaver T36 is more or less a cheap scope with lots of power?
A lot of short-range Benchrest shooters who compete in Varmint for Score and Group, compete with either the Weaver T-36, Leupold 45X Competition, or if well heeled, the March 40X, 45X or 50X. Other brands are used, but mostly the ones above, starting at 36X. The Weaver is not an inexpensive run-of-the-mill scope. If you think clarity is questionable you need to return it for replacement.
Here is what this site had to say about the T-36 following a comparison test:
Pros: Low cost, excellent tracking and repeatability. Positive 1/8 moa clicks. Simple, effective front AO parallax adjustment. Weaver claims 60 moa of windage and elevation. T-36s usually hold up well over many seasons. Silver finish available.
Cons: Small exit pupil. A bit less bright than the Sightron 36x. Unit to unit quality variance in the glass. We've looked at a few older T-36s that were cloudy and dim, but the vast majority are very good now. Try to look through a few before you buy.
OVERALL: A fine scope for the money. Much better value than the Leupold Competitions, with more reliable tracking (no modifications required). Neck and neck with the Sightron. Differences between individual T-36 units may be greater than differences between Weaver and Sightron.
Also, here's something I downloaded sometime ago. Sorry I didn't record the source at the time, but it has served me well when making scope adjustments:
HOW TO SET UP A SCOPE
If you wear glasses, put them on.
1. Screw the eyepiece out until it stops.
2. Hold the scope up and look OVER the scope at the sky, and relax your eyes.
3. Move the scope in front of your eye. The reticle should look fuzzy
4. Turn the eyepiece in 1/2 turn. Do the same thing again until the reticle starts to look better. When you get close, turn the eyepiece 1/4 turn each time. Do this until the reticle is SHARP and fully BLACK when immediately looking through the scope.
5. Back off one turn and do it again to make sure you are in the same place.
6. LOCK the ring on the eyepiece, and leave it alone until your prescription changes !
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7. Set the scope down on something sold, where it can see something at a long distance... half a mile or longer is good. It can be on the rifle and rested in sand bags at the range, but pick something at least 1000 yds away, further if possible.
8. If the scope has an "AO" Adjustable Objective [Adjustable Front Lense, highly recommended], Set It For Infinity, and look at the distant object, and move your head from one side to the other, or up and down if you prefer. If the reticle seems to move, there is parallax.
9. Change the distance setting and try again. If you are very careful, you can move your eye, and adjust the distance at the same time, seeing which direction gets better. With Front Objective Adjustments, you can turn them either way without worry.
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10. With side adjustment scopes, like the MK4-M3, the M3-LR, or the other LR family of scopes, the adjustment must ALWAYS be made from the infinity end of the dial. Turn the adjustment all the way until it stops (past infinity), and then start turning it in a little at a time, until there is no parallax. If you "overshoot" the proper setting, you can't just turn back a little, you must go back to stop at the end of the dial, and start over again.
While "AO"s dials are locked in place, and if the indicated distance doesn't match the real distance, there's nothing you can do about it... the side focus dials are not locked in place.
Once you have found the setting for infinity on the side focus models, then (CAREFULLY) loosen the screws, and set the dial so that little sideways infinity symbol is lined up with the hash mark, so it is calibrated. You can also make little marks or put on a paper tape for other ranges instead of using the round dots that don't match any range.
Now you can set it to infinity, but remember that you MUST turn the dial all the way past infinity to the stop, EVERY TIME before going from a close range to a longer range.
If you are set for 500 yds, you can go directly to 100 yds, but if you are set for 100 and want to set it to 500, you MUST go all the way back to the stop, and then go to 500.
This is because there is a fair amount of backlash (aka SLOP) in this wheel linkage to the focusing cell, so you can set it only from one direction to make sure the slop is always on one side. The other problem with it is, even if you decided that you wanted to calibrate from the other end... the recoil will push the cell back.
SO you must ALWAYS set these dials from the infinity end of their scales.
To make it easy, always start from the end stop, when you change range, no matter which direction you're going in, it adds only seconds!
