Weatherby Mark V Accumark 338 Lapua Quality Control

[David Milisock]

However they came to be, those are good results. If it was me, I’d be relieved and reassured that my rifle can be counted on to deliver the important shot, but that would be the last short range paper punching I ever did with it.

I have seven of these so I’m biased, but subjecting any Mark V, let alone a big bore, to endure short range paper punching tests is in a real sense, like challenging John Williams to sit for a four hour SAT exam. He’s John Williams, his value isn’t dictated by a high school standardized test. No 100 yard paper group explains or accounts for the fact that you delivered a .338 diameter, heavy bullet, very fast, from a versatile magazine equipped repeater of first tier quality; let the single shot .223’s and short 6’s have what they will dominate, anyway, without their lurking frame of reference to diminish results.

These aren’t built to soak up our countless hours at the range. They are for the important shot. How often are they seen “shot out”. Weatherby doesn’t try to make paper punchers. Look at the dual radius case (not yours), the 9 lug bolt, the milled square bottom action, integral lug. Nothing was considered too costly or complicated. It’s not easier, but harder to contour a carry weight barrel. (Yours is fluted, then the flutes are coated). Just read the threads on guys asking about turning down a target barrel. There’s nothing easier than leaving the OD of bar stock exactly as it came off the truck.

They aren’t exempted from objective performance like say a Purdy, that’s a different class, but they aren’t just a simple heavy barrel job, either.

Not being a competitor but having some experience with multiple thin barreled rifles in heavy loaded 30-06 up to max loads in 358 STW. I agree with you, it's a different standard, it's about putting accurate, projected energy, at range one to three times in maybe 15 to 25 seconds.

Emphasis on ENERGY, accurate reach from cold barrels and light for caliber rifles. In my opinion it's a hunters discipline as in my opinion that's the only place I know of where it has value.

A very thin barrel in an 06 pushing factory 300 Win Mag velocities, the same thin barrel and high velocities, in EVERY CALIBER pushing the technology to its limits, placing the first shot with accuracy fit for any discipline from a cold barrel, with 2 accurate follows up if needed. It is it's own discipline. One shot 1 kill, from a rifle you can carry, from as far away as the caliber allows. It's a patient man's discipline.

 

[Bubba Boomstick]

Are the radial holes evenly spaced? Is the exit hole in the middle?

The brake seems to be just fine. I will add pictures of the brake when I get a chance.

I think it's a combination of things. I have a sporter barrel, with flutes, shooting a radial brake with hotter loads. I think this is bad for harmonics.

Without the brake, the recoil goes straight backwards very sharply and consistently.

With the radial type brake, the recoil becomes less consistent. On hotter loads, it will jump diagonally or vertically.

This was the kicker:
Many people have written that best accuracy with the 338 Lapua comes with filling up the case. My rifle is using Peterson 338 Lapua brass, which has higher wall thickness therefore less internal volume.

The muzzlebrake made my groups deceiving. Instead of seeing a group that was obviously out of tune, it would shoot two together and a third flier. I would increase the powder charge closer to max load, adjust seating depth thinking, "I can get these fliers out with those changes." This was not true.

In fact, I learned, my rifle does not shoot well with a full case and max loads. My best accuracy is 5% and even 10% under max loads to achieve half MOA.

Without the brake, it became clear as day which loads worked, and which loads were terrible. I saw instant results and could make changes. When the brake was on, the groups were almost random. I kept spinning my tail trying to figure out what the gun was trying to tell me. My rifle was saying "USE LESS POWDER!" But the brake kept making the groups erratic and hard to read with vertical strings and fliers.

 

[MagnumW]

Ive had great luck with lil FB gen III brakes. But Ive seen the wbee factory brake shoot 1/2 moa too with right loads.

 

[.222 ND]

Just read this old thread and thought I would add my 2cents. I also bought a brand spanking new 338 lapua accumark back in about 2015. I do a fair amount of shooting and reloading and was very surprised at the dismal accuracy results. I tried around 10 different bullets and the only one that shot half decent was a 180 accubond or ballistic tip. i called Weatherby and explained all this and they said to just shoot the 180’s. I said i didn’t buy a Lapua to shoot 180’s, they then said I could send it in and pay for ammo and shipping if it met their accuracy expectations. They were unpleasant and basically said I was going to be flipping the bill if I gambled and sent it in. The gun averaged 3” groups with most everything besides the nosler 180’s. I decided to have a friend skim bed it and it shot like dream after that. I should mention that Weatherby had what looked like hot glue dribbled in the recoil lug area(This was removed before bedding). The biggest takeaway for me was Weatherby‘s unfriendly attitude. I haven’t bought one since. As a side note 250 bergers shot sub moa with little load development after the bed job.

 

[Charlie-NY]

I had my Weatherby Mark V problems back when wood stocks were the order of the day. The gun shot acceptably the first year but went south after that. The stock apparently warped and Weatherby fixed it. at no cost. It wasn't long before the gun wouldn't shoot again. I took it to a well-known gunsmith in PA who free-floated the barrel and bedded the action. The gun shot worse! Off it went to Weatherby again. They took one look at the stock and told me that it was inconsistent with their direction on accuracy. They told me that I would need a new stock and have it properly bedded at the factory. The new stock was EXPENSIVE but I paid to have the work done. As soon as the rifle arrived, all shiny and new, I sold it.

Never bought another Weatherby. Now, I don't any wood stocked rifles except my Rem LSS rifles.

 

[Bubba Boomstick]

OP here.

Just an update, I got the rifle rebarreled by Geoff Montgomery over at Wyoming Gun Company in 300 Norma, CIP Reamer.

It shoots very well, with little to no load development. I went with a Preferred Barrel Blanks, 1-8 twist 25", 0.850 taperless, 5/8-24". Gun is a little heavy at around 9 pounds. But it shoots smoothly. Magazine from factory didn't need to be modified at all for caliber conversion from 338 Lapua to 300 Norma.

This 0.850 barrel fit into the factory ADG composites stock with no modified inletting. Just FYI for future readers.

The factory weatherby barrel is being kept as a paper weight and it makes a great stick to fight the wendigo.

Just read this old thread and thought I would add my 2cents. I also bought a brand spanking new 338 lapua accumark back in about 2015. I do a fair amount of shooting and reloading and was very surprised at the dismal accuracy results. I tried around 10 different bullets and the only one that shot half decent was a 180 accubond or ballistic tip. i called Weatherby and explained all this and they said to just shoot the 180’s. I said i didn’t buy a Lapua to shoot 180’s, they then said I could send it in and pay for ammo and shipping if it met their accuracy expectations. They were unpleasant and basically said I was going to be flipping the bill if I gambled and sent it in. The gun averaged 3” groups with most everything besides the nosler 180’s. I decided to have a friend skim bed it and it shot like dream after that. I should mention that Weatherby had what looked like hot glue dribbled in the recoil lug area(This was removed before bedding). The biggest takeaway for me was Weatherby‘s unfriendly attitude. I haven’t bought one since. As a side note 250 bergers shot sub moa with little load development after the bed job.

Their customer service is terrible, I agree. For rifles that are $3000+, even if I am an illiterate gun baboon, I want to be taken care of. They also told me that whatever bullet shot the best, JUST USE IT. I was baffled, because what kind of rifles are they making that are so sensitive that you can only get reasonable accuracy out of one bullet?

 

[Ironworker]

I had a WBY Accumark in 338-378; it shot poorly,re-barreled, and re-chambered with a Bartlien 257 WBY Magnum Rem Varmint contour. It's a shooter now.

 

[Ironworker]

OP here.

Just an update, I got the rifle rebarreled by Geoff Montgomery over at Wyoming Gun Company in 300 Norma, CIP Reamer.

It shoots very well, with little to no load development. I went with a Preferred Barrel Blanks, 1-8 twist 25", 0.850 taperless, 5/8-24". Gun is a little heavy at around 9 pounds. But it shoots smoothly. Magazine from factory didn't need to be modified at all for caliber conversion from 338 Lapua to 300 Norma.

This 0.850 barrel fit into the factory ADG composites stock with no modified inletting. Just FYI for future readers.

The factory weatherby barrel is being kept as a paper weight and it makes a great stick to fight the wendigo.



Their customer service is terrible, I agree. For rifles that are $3000+, even if I am an illiterate gun baboon, I want to be taken care of. They also told me that whatever bullet shot the best, JUST USE IT. I was baffled, because what kind of rifles are they making that are so sensitive that you can only get reasonable accuracy out of one bullet?

Have you killed anything with it yet? Provide details if so.