That's where the 100 yard aggregate records are. Kudos and accolades to you; well done, in other words.
Want to get into reloading for accuracy
- Thread starter Ribz0Rama
- Start date
Deleted old_dood
and you might get your rifle back in a couple of years.
hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
Redding Type S f/l body dies are fine. So are Forster. (you'll need bushing/s). I'd suggest getting a book on reloading. For me - Zediker's Handloading for Competition was valuable.
It (or another book) will answer some questions, raise some questions about "problems" you didn't know existed, and
up your game. Also get a reloading manual (I have old Sierra & Hornady). Both (or any really), have how-to's
in the first chapter, and of course, data for your .308 loads.
You'll find you need a good barrel, scope, rest (or bipod), tools and reloading tools and
components.
I'd suggest reading alot online etc, before buying, although you are off to a good start. I'd recommend a
L.E Wilson Bullet seater. It will be used with an arbor press - probably will give you straighter loaded rounds and
allow you to actually feel the tension of your bullet entering the case neck.
If you can afford it, get the best in class reloading components. I'd suggest starting with new brass - Lapua brand if affordable. You'll be hooked when you get 3 (or 5) bullets in the same hole.
I agree and only after discovering that they work well should he buy the extra tools needed ie: squaring, deburing, measuring etc.
And it will be a custom rifle.
only took about 6 months. i certainly wasn't in a hurry. worth the wait.
as far as custom. it was a parts rifle i assembled myself. savages are easy that way. would i call that custom? hardly? by the way shilen prefits for savage come chambered.
now this is custom. you can have it your way.
https://www.kelbly.com/arcas-long-range-benchrest-rifle.html
Ribz0Rama, you should be a LOT more specific with details about the following;
1. your rifle to include barrel length and OD at the muzzle ?
2. Factory stock, or aftermarket, stock Savage trigger or aftermarket ?
3. Distances you plane to shoot / test your reloading abilities at ?, and your desired group sizes ?
1. your rifle to include barrel length and OD at the muzzle ?
2. Factory stock, or aftermarket, stock Savage trigger or aftermarket ?
3. Distances you plane to shoot / test your reloading abilities at ?, and your desired group sizes ?
if it is not a FACTORY rifle it is a CUSTOM rifle..no mater who put it together.
One thing few reloaders consider starting out in their quest for best accuracy is bullet diameter. They should be a few to several ten-thousandths inch bigger than barrel groove diameter.
That's the reason match barrels consistently shooting smallest groups have such diameters that much smaller than match bullets used. Kreiger 30 caliber match barrel grooves are typically .3075" but he will make them .3065" if you want best accuracy with 7.62 NATO ball ammo having .3070" bullet diameters.
I've measured commercial 308 Win rifle barrels' grooves with .3082" to .3090" diameter. Bullets from .3069" to .3095". SAAMI spec tolerances are .3090" -.003" for 308 Win commercial bullets, .3080" +.002" for 308 Win groove diameters.
That's the reason match barrels consistently shooting smallest groups have such diameters that much smaller than match bullets used. Kreiger 30 caliber match barrel grooves are typically .3075" but he will make them .3065" if you want best accuracy with 7.62 NATO ball ammo having .3070" bullet diameters.
I've measured commercial 308 Win rifle barrels' grooves with .3082" to .3090" diameter. Bullets from .3069" to .3095". SAAMI spec tolerances are .3090" -.003" for 308 Win commercial bullets, .3080" +.002" for 308 Win groove diameters.
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Yep, It's been a long winter
hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
Shynloco
You can lead a horse to water, but ........
That's a pretty "generalized" statement. Care to elaborate on which "stuff" is made up? Just curious.
As to a custom rifle, if I were to build a rifle for accuracy, I'd start with a Remington 700 Action (stainless and NOT a take apart off an across the counter Remington Rifle) which I've found to be the most versatile and forgiving action. I too have a Savage Model 12 6mmbr which shoots in the 1's & 2's (when I do my part and have the right setup for the rifle and the one that works the best for me. But the drawback on Savages (even the Model 12) generally allows only for Savage parts except for getting a trigger from one of a very few sources in the US, wherein you can adjust the trigger down to a few ounces (below 8 ozs), that regardless of what Rifle Basix claims their SAV2 can do. That is NOT to say that Savages can't be accurate. But when you consider the rifles used by the BIG BOYS in serious competition, why is it that you won't see Savage Actions in the winner's circle at the nation wide top tier competitions? And NO, I'm not a Savage hater as some may suggest because of what I've written. Just a realist who doesn't have unreasonable expectations from the rifles I own, Savage being one of the brands (in different calibers, I might add).
Alex
no doubt savage rifles can be extremely accurate
but they have two great weakness.
The trigger. now that SSS benchrest trigger is a great trigger but it is no jewell.
and there is no comparision between cycling a savage action and a panda or bat.
this conversation is not helping the man looking for advice :
"I want to try and become accurate in my shooting and just want to know where I need to go or what I need to purchase that will make my bullets accurate for my specific rifle. Thank you in advance."
This was my query 10 years ago, too.
now i like savage rifles despite their shortcomings. i have built several. there is so much you can do with the system. that is why it it being copied by so many now. You can have an extremely accurate rifle for a fraction of what the customs cost and you can just change a $300 barrel and have a new cartridge to work with.
like i have said earlier what is your expectations
what is the intended use
how far down the rabbit hole do you want to go.
nowhere did he say he wanted to up grade or build a new rifle.
he did say he wanted to load for his rifle with the goal being increased accuracy.
shall we get back to loading and equipment.
he did say he wanted to load for his rifle with the goal being increased accuracy.
shall we get back to loading and equipment.
searcher
Gold $$ Contributor
Hey - a few guys have already mentioned full-length bushing dies. As emphasis, you may be embarking on a trip that will cost you a lot of money as upgrades and "oh - I should have bought that instead". Your dies are one of those items. Frankly, I'd not spend more on custom dies and such than the gun is worth. I'd also not buy dies that you may find the need to upgrade on. The Redding die set you mention is great - (and I have them), but you will ultimately be better served with a semi-custom sizing die which accepts bushings like a Harrel's. They cost 1/3 to half of a custom die and will serve you well. I think it is also less than the Redding die. Just send Harrels a couple of your fired cased that have not been resized after firing. Also, as others said - get the Hornady lock N Load case measuring tools and a good dial caliper to properly set your dies up.
I'd say start cheap until you get the hang of things. Lee die set with full length sizing die, seating die and neck sizer, if you so choose. If things get pushed to the back of the closet in a few months, you're not out much. No way would I be able to compete with my 12FV in .308, but I have left quite a few sub 1/2 MOA targets hanging at the range (loaded only with Lee dies).....just to show what a Savage can do. 
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