Vertical Mill inletting tools

[Dusty Stevens]

I like my inletting to be round like the barrel.

 

[Rich S]

I used 1-3/8 for HV (1.25) barrel channel. I was very happy with the fit. The 1-3/8 is also about right for Remington actions if you plan to bed them. Below is a link to some on ebay. I bought a couple but ended up using standard ball end mills. Mainly I like the added distance it provides between the cut and spindle. I've been very happy with the results using endmills. I havent noticed them getting dull on laminates yet but have limited experience.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1-3-8-Cuttin...324320?hash=item5b3215f760:g:QCQAAOSwnMBafYt3

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Woodworker-1...Flutes-Cove-Core-Box-Router-Bit-/351345019414

 

[hoz53]

I used 1-3/8 for HV (1.25) barrel channel. I was very happy with the fit. The 1-3/8 is also about right for Remington actions if you plan to bed them. Below is a link to some on ebay. I bought a couple but ended up using standard ball end mills. Mainly I like the added distance it provides between the cut and spindle. I've been very happy with the results using endmills. I havent noticed them getting dull on laminates yet but have limited experience.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1-3-8-Cuttin...324320?hash=item5b3215f760:g:QCQAAOSwnMBafYt3

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Woodworker-1...Flutes-Cove-Core-Box-Router-Bit-/351345019414

what size ball end mills do you use?

 

[ricco1949]

I use 1" and 1.25" core box carbide router bits from MLCS and HSS ball end mills for any thing less. Arcs for odd radius's such as 1.400 for Remington and clone inlets are done using the DRO arc program. For tapered barrel inlets I start with the straight section while the top of the stock is still parallel with the vise top. I then re-clamp to set the bottom taper into the vise and cut the minimum needed at the forearm end. I then lay the barrel into the preliminary inlet and scribe the side tapers. The side tapers are then roughed out leaving the scribe line, running X and Y axis manually, setting Z in stages. Final cut to the scribe line is done with scrapers and sand paper held around appropriate sizes dowels. The scrapers are shop made from 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2 carriage bolts with the head thinned and sharpened in the lathe. Threads are also removed to prevent scarring the opposite side of the barrel channel as you use the tool.
Rick M.

 

[Rich S]

what size ball end mills do you use?

1-3/8"
Attached are some photos of the one I'm working on. Just had it painted and the action is not beaded yet. I milled the channel and most of the exterior with HSS end mills. About the only surfaces that weren't milled were the grip, top of the butt and breaking the sharp corners. The milled surfaces required very little sanding to prep for painting. For the mills, I climb milled when possible and ran ~1100 rpm.

 

[hoz53]

1-3/8"
Attached are some photos of the one I'm working on. Just had it painted and the action is not beaded yet. I milled the channel and most of the exterior with HSS end mills. About the only surfaces that weren't milled were the grip, top of the butt and breaking the sharp corners. The milled surfaces required very little sanding to prep for painting. For the mills, I climb milled when possible and ran ~1100 rpm.

thats good info and you did a great job on the stock. so you milled the whole stock from a blank? the first bits i tried milling wood stocks were end mills and they worked fine. then i got a core box i think 13/8 and that did a great job for the barrel channel. i was just thinking a 1 3/8 endmill must be a bit salty. Thanks Much

 

[Rich S]

thats good info and you did a great job on the stock. so you milled the whole stock from a blank? the first bits i tried milling wood stocks were end mills and they worked fine. then i got a core box i think 13/8 and that did a great job for the barrel channel. i was just thinking a 1 3/8 end mill must be a bit salty. Thanks Much

I started with a Richards micro fit. It was pretty crude to start with. There are no original surfaces left, I don't think it would have taken much more time to start with a blank. Attached are photos of the beginning stages. I cut the receiver channel first and temp bedded a jig in the stock to mount it in my action block. I drilled mounting holes in he jig straight and at an angle. This allowed all surfaces to be machined from the same set up and maintain them parallel/level withing a few thousands. Also this way I didn't have to tilt the head and tram it back in. I then cut the final receiver and barrel channel with the forearm in the vice.

 

[hoz53]

I started with a Richards micro fit. It was pretty crude to start with. There are no original surfaces left, I don't think it would have taken much more time to start with a blank. Attached are photos of the beginning stages. I cut the receiver channel first and temp bedded a jig in the stock to mount it in my action block. I drilled mounting holes in he jig straight and at an angle. This allowed all surfaces to be machined from the same set up and maintain them parallel/level withing a few thousands. Also this way I didn't have to tilt the head and tram it back in. I then cut the final receiver and barrel channel with the forearm in the vice.

Nice work-- thats a great idea to use the jig. when i tried to mill one it seemed like a of lot effort to set the stock up a bunch of different ways so this looks like a better idea. Thanks

 

[Ledd Slinger]

1-3/8"
Attached are some photos of the one I'm working on. Just had it painted and the action is not beaded yet. I milled the channel and most of the exterior with HSS end mills. About the only surfaces that weren't milled were the grip, top of the butt and breaking the sharp corners. The milled surfaces required very little sanding to prep for painting. For the mills, I climb milled when possible and ran ~1100 rpm.

Nice. I like the dark color with high metal flake on that one

 

[Rich S]

Nice work-- thats a great idea to use the jig. when i tried to mill one it seemed like a of lot effort to set the stock up a bunch of different ways so this looks like a better idea. Thanks

It's rigid enough that I did not need additional support for the forearm other than an adjustable parallel under it when machining the bottom. I did take a couple of light (<0.010) cuts for the final finish. I needed additional support on the butt as the longer side cuts and angles did want to cause flex. I used the fixture in the picture. Easy to set up. I mounted a vertical and horizontal indicators on the stock to verify I maintained 0 as I tightened up the support. Its surprising how much it can flex as you torque the screw.

 

[hoz53]

It's rigid enough that I did not need additional support for the forearm other than an adjustable parallel under it when machining the bottom. I did take a couple of light (<0.010) cuts for the final finish. I needed additional support on the butt as the longer side cuts and angles did want to cause flex. I used the fixture in the picture. Easy to set up. I mounted a vertical and horizontal indicators on the stock to verify I maintained 0 as I tightened up the support. Its surprising how much it can flex as you torque the screw.

i made an angle plate out of 2x6 lumber and bolted it down to the end of the bed on my mill. then i c clamped the butt to it and that stopped it from moving and i didnt have to put something under the forearm but i probably should as i didnt check if it moved