A bypass can be on the engine, in the filter, or both. There are also filters with anti drain back valves, which keeps oil from draining out of the filter where it's mounted in such a way that it can. Never saw much need for that on say a small block Chevy, where the filter is mounted upside down, vertically. Sbc is an example that can bypass valve on the engine. It's a simple spring loaded valve incorporated into the filter mount. Fwiw.
Vehicle Oil Filter Recommendations?
- Thread starter TrxR
- Start date
First off I’m not an oil nerd or a nerd of any sort.
More likely damage from debris is a safe statement due to the % of people just failing to follow the manufacturers service schedule. However a restricted flow is also right in step. But you need a clear understanding of how Babbitt bearings work compared to ball or taper bearings. Remember your Babbitt bearing rely on oil pressure to insure there is not even a moment when steel touches steel. Ball bearings are far more forgiving but their friction is vastly higher than Babbitt ones.
One could say your cam, crank, rod etc bearing virtually float’ oil. They touch and here comes your debis.
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
On various web forums...I don't know if it was the oil forum or the Toyota forum. And of course, it was model-specific.
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
Not sure I've read many examples of restricted flow secondary to the oil filter causing such issues in the real world. I haven't even seen evidence of it being any kind of an issue on modern cars as most are going to bypass and throw codes before the point of damage, right?
Ok thanks.
My own thoughts, though you didn’t ask, are I would not put much credence in an on line forum.
However you mentioned Toyota. Is that a factory forum?
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
I don't remember which one it was. I've been reading off and on for about a year for everything I can do to keep my truck going strong. It could have been the oil nerd forum or it could have been one of the two or three Toyota-based forums. Sometimes finer details escape me. Basically they had repeated some testing stating that it had lower efficiency (flow) and less filtering capability than some of the aftermarket premium filters. In other words, many better filters have more flow and lower micron rating such as the Ultra Synthetic, Wix, and Bosche.
Right now I own a Minty 2001 Tunda with 145,000 miles and a Minty 2001
Saturn 4 door sedan that gets 30+ mpg on the highway and they didn't cost me
$40+ grand either.
I have gone through many many vehicles over time and have always changed oil and filter every 3-4000 miles and have never had engine failure except once when I was 17yo
and beat on a '59 plymouth that couldn't take the abuse, but it wasn't due to the oil or filter. I learned my lesson. I've always used a premium grade non synthetic oil and many Fram filters.
I like the idea of frequent oil changes because it forces me to look over the entire vehicle
on top and underneath where I might spot some other issue before it's a problem but
each to their own.
Saturn 4 door sedan that gets 30+ mpg on the highway and they didn't cost me
$40+ grand either.
I have gone through many many vehicles over time and have always changed oil and filter every 3-4000 miles and have never had engine failure except once when I was 17yo
and beat on a '59 plymouth that couldn't take the abuse, but it wasn't due to the oil or filter. I learned my lesson. I've always used a premium grade non synthetic oil and many Fram filters.
I like the idea of frequent oil changes because it forces me to look over the entire vehicle
on top and underneath where I might spot some other issue before it's a problem but
each to their own.
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
My last truck was a Chevy Silverado I bought with 50,000 miles on it. I changed the oil more frequently than the maintenance interval called for (with synthetic oils). Most of my drive is interstate 90 miles at a time. Engine sledge became a problem. My mechanic buddy (his family owned a major dealership) told me that it was because the detergents in synthetic oils would break down more quickly than the oil. This caused it to allow sludge to build in my engine. It started to constantly throw codes around the 20,000 mile mark. He started suggesting better filters and to get rid of it as soon as I could. You may say I'm a bit paranoid now.
Before that truck, I just drove old-school stuff and like you changed oil every 2500 miles or so. These days, with a wife, demanding job, small children, and a long commute makes it a bit harder. Funny though, my dad has said the same thing about doing your own oil changes and changing it frequently as you did.
Before that truck, I just drove old-school stuff and like you changed oil every 2500 miles or so. These days, with a wife, demanding job, small children, and a long commute makes it a bit harder. Funny though, my dad has said the same thing about doing your own oil changes and changing it frequently as you did.
I guess should break it down, we changed filters air, fuel, and oil filters every 92 days on a locomotive besides what other maintenance needed to be done. Up until a 3 year schedule maintenance is due that is when we dumped it’s oil and put new oil in or recycled oil. That could very from different model units on capacity they took, anywhere from 250 gallons to 450 gallons at the most. Lab samples were taken every 92 day inspection, Baldwin and Luberfiner filters were used mainly Baldwin I believe they were 5 micron
For oil and 2 or 3 on fuel. That’s kinda what sold me on filters, after going through 7 to 10 thousand gallons of oil every month is quite a bit. Nothing wrong with Wix, Hasting filters have used them also, or just Oem filter also.
For oil and 2 or 3 on fuel. That’s kinda what sold me on filters, after going through 7 to 10 thousand gallons of oil every month is quite a bit. Nothing wrong with Wix, Hasting filters have used them also, or just Oem filter also.
HOLD IT!
MAYBE ALL OF YOU WANT TO RETHINK YOUR VEHICLE OPTIONS!!
HERE'S WHAT OUR BUDDY KLAUS SAYS:
brandnewtube.com
MAYBE ALL OF YOU WANT TO RETHINK YOUR VEHICLE OPTIONS!!
HERE'S WHAT OUR BUDDY KLAUS SAYS:
World Economic Forum calls for end to private car ownership
World Economic Forum calls for end to private car ownership Trump/patriot-friendly free speech social media & video sites... - https://xephula.com/blogs/406213/Trump-patriot-friendly-free-speech-social-media-video-si
brandnewtube.com
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
Exactly why I want to keep mine going as long as possibleHOLD IT!
MAYBE ALL OF YOU WANT TO RETHINK YOUR VEHICLE OPTIONS!!
HERE'S WHAT OUR BUDDY KLAUS SAYS:
World Economic Forum calls for end to private car ownership
World Economic Forum calls for end to private car ownership Trump/patriot-friendly free speech social media & video sites... - https://xephula.com/blogs/406213/Trump-patriot-friendly-free-speech-social-media-video-si
shoot4fun
Gold $$ Contributor
I didn't infer the testing was flawed when it was performed. No doubt it was done with sound methods and unbiased results.
Doubting that filter technology has changed in 20 years is pure conjecture on your part. There isn't much in technology that hasn't changed in the past twenty years. Just ask yourself how many times a day you say "they sure don't make 'em like they used to"?
Personally, I use one of the oil change places and I take my Tundra in every 5,000 miles for service.
Our Mercedes every 10,000 or 1 year and always done by either the dealer of by a smaller shop owned by a reputable and highly trained MB tech.
Have YOU passed your "Vehicle Background Check" yet?? LOL!!Exactly why I want to keep mine going as long as possible
brokeasajoke
Silver $$ Contributor
Where is the oil pressure switch/sensor located? Before filter and you will see an increase in pressure for a restrictive filter after and you will see less for a restrictive filter assuming the oil bleeds out of the system faster than it can be supplied. I've been in the auto parts store for over 22years and never heard of an engine failure due to a failed filter. I'm not sure even one bad filter would kill a motor, maybe shorten it's life somewhat. The only way I see would be for the media to exit filter casing and plug up the system. Moral of this whole thread, change your oil and filter often.
M_61 of course you should know I meant no disrespect at all.... Let me do it this way..... My bad if I frazed it horribly.....
If you look up frame filters and why not to use them you will literally get a ton of test and information on why and what they have changed that makes them a very bad choice...as far as bleed down.... A modern filter has a check ball that that keeps oil in the oil valleys etc for cold start up.... If you use a filter without this feature you will hear the lifters rattle at start up for a few seconds... If you use a filter with an anti drain back feature you won't....once again all filters are not the same no matter what they say....
What I mean by a modern engine.... Modern engines have tighter tolerances and even thinner rings than say a 1970 Chevy 350.... Dodge 318 have two ring sets these days ones thinner and trust me when I say easier to bend on install.... There's a hole in my dad's old shop closet door where a piston install hammer was placed at high speed over it..lol... Because of this most engines these days want an anti drain back filter so there's oil already in the system at start up.... If you remember an old school Chevy had 80,000 miles on it , it was worn out.... Now that's nothing for a modern engine to make 80,000 miles.... I have pulled down 7.3 turbos diesel with 25,000 and the rings were not full seated yet...
There's actually a guy who did his year paper at U T here in Austin Texas about why fram filters are not what they used to be... Normally believe it or not one of the best filters is always the NAPA gold filter... I used fram filters only until about three years ago when I stumbled across all the information available by people doing simple cut open and disassembly videos and comparison test with other filters... For instance , most decent filters will at least use a rubber O rings to seal inside the filter.... Fram now uses a cardboard ring instead and of course it's not going to seal results include oil not being filtered etc...
You can check out some cut open videos on you tube for starters and after that trust me it's a rabbit hole of information because it's an old subject these days... But if you have the time and want to check it out for yourself it's out there....
I will stir up another bucket here by saying Mobil one car oil isn't great for lubing ARs if your running them hard because it can't take the heat and was never designed to... A nascar doesn't run any brand oil you can buy off a shelf at Walmart or AutoZone , it's special blended for them.... You can buy decent oil for these kind of race applications there's about three and I would have to go look them up , that will handle the heat and pressure of a real race engine and last time I did look they were $20-30 a quart I am sure alot more now.... Believe it or not we ran that green Kawasaki 30wt in our dry sump systems for our big dirt motors and it held up very well... Also the big ac Delco filters on most which get thrown out and changed a lot but they would hold up to the volume and pressure at 8000+rpm on a small block 350...
Once again , I meant no disrespect and was simply trying to keep it short but sometimes short seems snippy...
Shawn
Last edited:
I'd worry more about using a good oil, especially in older models. Oil has changed over the last 20 years, or less, and not all for the better. They have removed most of the zinc that was common in petroleum based oils for ages. Cam lube is heavy in zinc and zinc is what keeps a camshaft and flat tappet engine together. Not a huge deal in roller lifter engines, which many are now. Mt thinking is, if it was necessary at that high friction area, it has to be good. Just my 2 cents. Most diesel rated oils still do contain zinc.
Unless the filter plugged up you are correct but the problem really comes in the form of oil getting past the seals and the oil not being filtered at all... Most people know nothing about anything much less a oil filter or oil.... The what evers cheapest is the key.... Most cars don't have any sort of gauge , some only a light so people don't know what or even how much pressure the car has normally.... Then you throw in high volume pumps instead of high pressure and even a shade tree mechanic is lost.... I prefer high volume btw.... I have torn down thousands of engines over the years and trust me when I say people don't know how to take care of them....Now let's talk about draining and replacing tranny and differential oils... It's never done and exactly why newer cars don't have a place to add tranny oil or even a filter you can change without cracking the tranny in half.... I worked for a short time for an auto parts store and people won't spend an extra dollar on stuff....
You will probably end up going with the napa gold if you keep researching..... I did it about three years ago and just swapped to the Mobil one because they carry it at Walmart and I am not big on my local Napa just because of the people working there....
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