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Varmint Rifle Build Blog - 25x45AI (Step 2: Removing Tikka Barrel)

So I finally received my Tikka T3x 223 the other day and I was all set to get to work on it when 2020 struck again. This year just needs to go away! Anyway, a nasty monsoon storm hit Phoenix and exploded the trees around my house and also took out the AC compressor at my rental property....needless to say, the last few days have been pretty expensive. But at least we finally got some rain! ;)

With all that taken care of I cranked the AC in my garage (yes I have AC in my garage, it’s the best thing ever) and started to formulate a plan to get the Tikka Sporter barrel off the receiver. If you’ve ever had the joy of taking off a Tikka barrel you can certainly appreciate a good plan of attack (they must heat shrink those barrels on at the factory or something). I want to save the barrel so cutting it in any way is not an option. One of the problems is you cannot get a good enough purchase on the curved sporter barrel with standard Wheeler barrel vise block. The barrel has no constant diameter, so you only end up with < 1/4” contact patch to try and hold a barrel tightened by Thor himself. That just doesn’t work.

My Plan:
Make a bushing block out of aluminum (split in half) that so I can use bedding compound to mold the contour of the barrel for a full 2”. I started by squaring up a block of aluminum on the mill, if it’s worth doing it’s worth overdoing by 1000x.
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Then I headed over to the lathe to bore an angled hole through the block. The hole is oversized enough to allow for adequate amount of bedding compound. The 10 degree angle I chose was a bit steep, but it should work. I also cut some grooves to help the compound adhere.

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Bandsaw time! I split the block in two and evened the surfaces out in the mill. I also drilled holes with an endmill to give even more strength to the bedding compound

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As a last step I added 4 counter sunk screws to the corners to hold the whole thing together while bedding. You can see from the last picture what I’m it ended up looking like before bedding. I’m headed off to get some compound, I ran out. I’ll add another pick after I get the block finished up. I’ll also add additional details about the barrel removal itself. Hopefully all the work pays off!
Stay tuned.
 
Update 8/24/20

Theme of this post “no plan survives first contact”

Plan A
My form fit bushing idea was a complete and total failure. After having a perfect form fit for the first two inches of the barrel the bushings still didn’t have enough clamping force to keep the barrel from rotating.

Plan B:
I decided that the noninvasive approach is beyond my capabilities (or patients level), so I decided to be “semi-invasive”. I figured I could cut a nice flat on the bottom of the barrel to keep it from twisting.
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For sure this should work....right? Wrong! The barrel would still twist in the vise when engage on a flat piece of 1/2” steel on the bottom and either a wooden or aluminum bushing on the top. I even tried to chill the barrel itself by spraying air into the chamber. No amount of hammer blows would jar it loose.

Plan C:
Time to stop messing around, Tikka obviously freezes these barrels before putting them on. Once they heat back up and expand its game over for scrubs like me to get them off unaltered.

So back to the Mill to cut the flat on the bottom deeper and also to cut a matching flat on top of the Barrel. Both were 0.100” deep. I then put the barrel back in the vise and clamped it between pieces of flat steel
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After taking a deep breath and clearing the sweat from my eyes, I took one big hammer blow to the wrench and........CRACK the receiver broke free! It was either break free or break apart, I’m glad the receiver played nicely.
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Lesson learned, for me Tikka factory barrels are a Complete write-off when removing...but I’m now in business and onto step 3
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Stay tuned
 
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Good write up and for keeping your sense of humor (in your write up anyways ;)). Part of your difficulty might have been the fact you were a full month ahead of yourself,(based on the date you typed in :eek::eek:) so you have time to figure out another method and see if it works any better. :confused:
 
Good write up and for keeping your sense of humor (in your write up anyways ;)). Part of your difficulty might have been the fact you were a full month ahead of yourself,(based on the date you typed in :eek::eek:) so you have time to figure out another method and see if it works any better. :confused:
Whoops! Maybe it was wishful thinking on my part...to hot here!
 
Thank you for posting this. I really enjoy watching these processes, no idea what I'm looking at when it comes to the lathe tools etc but I love it nonetheless.

I had no idea Tikka barrels were so tight. I have 6 or 7 old M55 and M65 rifles, some of which I plan to have work done to someday.

Looking forward to step 3.
 
Thank you for posting this. I really enjoy watching these processes, no idea what I'm looking at when it comes to the lathe tools etc but I love it nonetheless.

I had no idea Tikka barrels were so tight. I have 6 or 7 old M55 and M65 rifles, some of which I plan to have work done to someday.

Looking forward to step 3.
Thank you for taking the time to read this stuff! I enjoy doing it, I’m not the best writer in the world but if I can keep it interesting and humorous then that’s good enough for me. Anything specific you would like to see done? Ryan
 
Thank you for taking the time to read this stuff! I enjoy doing it, I’m not the best writer in the world but if I can keep it interesting and humorous then that’s good enough for me. Anything specific you would like to see done? Ryan

Not particularly. I'm a hunter who is trying to get better at shooting and reloading, a lot of what goes on here is above my head somewhat. I enjoy it all.
 
I have removed many Tikka barrels from T3 actions and 595 actions and they were not difficult at all to remove. Just a regular action wrench and barrel vice. No heat or anything else was needed. Apparently they vary in tightness.
 
I have removed many Tikka barrels from T3 actions and 595 actions and they were not difficult at all to remove. Just a regular action wrench and barrel vice. No heat or anything else was needed. Apparently they vary in tightness.
Might just be the T3x, I’ve read lots of horror stories, I don’t have any experience with the previous models.
 
They are very tight, but a standard v block type vise and a good smack with a dead blow hammer to a clamp style wrench takes them off with no damage. T3 and T3x are the same in my experience. The key is to hold the barrel in a spot that has as little taper as possible. The part just in front of the chamber has the most aggressive taper and its tough to clamp a taper.
 
They are very tight, but a standard v block type vise and a good smack with a dead blow hammer to a clamp style wrench takes them off with no damage. T3 and T3x are the same in my experience. The key is to hold the barrel in a spot that has as little taper as possible. The part just in front of the chamber has the most aggressive taper and its tough to clamp a taper.
Thanks! Next time you take one off post a pic of your setup so us scrubs can stop wasting barrels. Ryan
 
Might just be the T3x, I’ve read lots of horror stories, I don’t have any experience with the previous models.
The barrel has a 4 degree taper per side on it if I remember correctly. I bored an insert for my vise to match this just for use with t3 and t3x. Also, the actions are fairly thin walled so if you over tighten your action wrench (depending on the geometry of them) you can deform the action, making it clamp down onto the threads, which will add to the effort required to remove them.
 
Tikka barrels are just turned really tight at factory. They are using machine for that. Visited their factory few times and seen how they do it.
 
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