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Use of the Lee collet neck sizing die with a full length sizing die

I've used that exact technique on 223. I think it worked well.

On thing I did notice is after a while it was becoming very difficult for the press to push the case up into the neck sizing die and also hard to withdraw the case from the die.

Doing this you're not squeezing the neck down against the mandrel but rather using the mandrel as an expander to open the neck back up much like the expander in the full-length resizer would do.

What I found was that (it seemed) brass was transferring onto the mandrel and building up enough to markedly increase the friction. Lube didn't help once the problem developed nor did carbon in the case necks. The solution was to take out the mandrel and lightly polish it with fine steel wool, or even Turtle wax on a big cleaning patch would do the trick. I think that got rid of the brass on the mandrel and eliminated the galling friction of similar metals.
 
I've used that exact technique on 223. I think it worked well.

On thing I did notice is after a while it was becoming very difficult for the press to push the case up into the neck sizing die and also hard to withdraw the case from the die.

Doing this you're not squeezing the neck down against the mandrel but rather using the mandrel as an expander to open the neck back up much like the expander in the full-length resizer would do.

What I found was that (it seemed) brass was transferring onto the mandrel and building up enough to markedly increase the friction. Lube didn't help once the problem developed nor did carbon in the case necks. The solution was to take out the mandrel and lightly polish it with fine steel wool, or even Turtle wax on a big cleaning patch would do the trick. I think that got rid of the brass on the mandrel and eliminated the galling friction of similar metals.
I recently swapped out the standard mandrel for the .001 undersized mandrel on my .223 collet neck sizer. The brass buildup on the mandrel was significant enough to require removal and polishing. If there's no difference in the results on the target, I'll go back to the standard mandrel. I'm happy to see that it's the mandrel, and not something that I caused by improper die set-up. I couldn't wrap my head around what was going on.
 
No, the brass will sit on the base and the shim on the shell holder keeps that case from going further up into the neck of the die, thus sizing to the end.

What Lee forgets is that many folks will first size the case neck and then trim it because some actions dent the case mouth on ejection. It was an ill conceived idea and instead of allowing for both versions, they doubled down on the mistake. You can't do a good job of trim or chamfer on dented necks, and I will not try it on a flared neck either.

OP, most times a full length sizing die will size the diameter down farther than the mandrel on the Lee collet die. That means that once you FL size in that regular die, you will be sizing down much farther and without the expander opening it back up, the Lee Mandrel would need lube to open it back up and then there wouldn't be any benefit over say a standard mandrel operation.

Like above, if you wanted to try this system it would be best to try a Redding Body die in combination with the Lee Collet Die on the neck.

In fact, you can then also ask Lee for several modified mandrels at different diameters to have control over neck tension, or if you are handy you can just buy extra ones and reduce them yourself.
Thanks, you caught my error about "above the shellholder." It should be between the die and the press.
 
For the new style LCD, a shim with a hole in it cam be placed over the case to keep the collet higher on the neck.
OR slide a slotted shim in between shell holder and collet.
 
There shouldn't be.....according to our bible: Frank C Barnes, Cartridges of the World:
35 Whelen is just a necked up 30/06 with no other changes.

.......... as long as the oversize hole at the top of the body size die accepts the larger diameter 35 Whelen neck. I use a Forster 6.5-284 bushing-bump die on 284 Win, but only after I had the the opening below the bushing section relieved, otherwise it would have crushed the neck.
 
Know where to get .04" shim or do you have another recommendation?

Know where to get .04" shim or do you have another recommendation?
Yes. Find a washer that fits over the case and sits on top of the shell holder, preventing the case from going so far up into the collet. A search reveals it’s been mentioned on here many times. No need to get exotic or fancy or re invent the wheel.
 
The reason the LCD Mandrel starts to get tight after a while, IT‘S HITTING THE DONUT. I remove them with the RCBS Inside Neck Reamer. It doesn’t scratch neck walls or remove the carbon
 
The reason the LCD Mandrel starts to get tight after a while, IT‘S HITTING THE DONUT. I remove them with the RCBS Inside Neck Reamer. It doesn’t scratch neck walls or remove the carbon
Curious as to which cartridge got tight on you at the donut?
 

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