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UPDATED: Dillon 550 Reloading Whitepaper

Excellent article! Thank you very much for sending me the link. Its funny that you had just edited it the day before I messaged you. I have now ordered a 550C and a Uniquetech floating tool head, they should be here Monday. I am psyched, if it lives up to what I think it should, the Dillon is going to save me one to two full work weeks of free time!
What kind of sand paper on your sanding block did you use to level the shell plate? One more question, where do you get a custom sizing die? Do you send a reamer or fired cases to someone?
Thanks again for your help and the great article.

Donald
 
Thanks again for sharing! This workflow has been a tremendous time saver for me.

One thing I changed which I think has sped things up is to separate the sizing and loading processes. One toolhead for depriming, FL size, and mandrel then a separate toolhead for powder and bullet seating. The sizing operation goes very fast through the press (likely just as fast as depriming separately), then I can tumble the lube off the empty brass instead of having to wipe loaded cases individually. It also allows for a faster lubing process without need for a case lube rack, just throw brass in a bin and spray with lube and swirl around since there's no concern about a little lube getting inside case neck (where it might otherwise cause powder to stick).
 
One more question, where do you get a custom sizing die? Do you send a reamer or fired cases to someone?

A tip for those who want a die that's less expensive than a full custom FL die, look into having Forster hone the neck diameter of one of their FL dies for only $15. If the Forster die is a good fit with your chamber size they are excellent and produce very straight ammo. I've been using them for Dasher, 6BRA and 223 with this Dillon 550 workflow with great results.
 
I’ve moved to this method and while skeptical in the beginning I’m a believer now. I use an Area 419 funnel and tube which works perfectly and puts the funnel up above the dies so I don’t need to modify any of the dies. I’m actually getting better runout than with my inline dies right now.
*what I should say is that it’s been on par with results I had with my inline dies and occasionally exceeds them...
 

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I’ve moved to this method and while skeptical in the beginning I’m a believer now. I use an Area 419 funnel and tube which works perfectly and puts the funnel up above the dies so I don’t need to modify any of the dies. I’m actually getting better runout than with my inline dies right now.
What is your average runout? I tried on my Dillon and got 003-006, but I wasn't using the floating lock rings you are using.
 
All things being equal I have actually been getting less than .003 on loaded rounds. Switching to no-turn necks will make it more but that’s a different animal.
 
What is your average runout? I tried on my Dillon and got 003-006, but I wasn't using the floating lock rings you are using.
For what it’s worth (and plenty of guys will probably dispute this) I’ve stopped worrying too much about loaded runout. I shoot with some great HMs who have been doing this Dillon method for a while and they don’t even seem to care unless it gets close to .009 or more.

From what I’ve seen around me, most of the guys focus on prepped brass runout more than loaded round.
 
I've been using my 550c for bulk 223 & 9mm, and, my T-7 for precision loads. The T-7 has been giving me runout problems (007-011) with an occasional 003. Long story short, after many changes, I discovered the ram has some visible movement at top stroke and the turret has some vertical movement when sizing brass. I tried my 550c out of curiosity and got ok results--figured if I'd taken the time to setup a UniqueTec tool head and float-lock rings I'd gotten better results. I bought a Co Ax to replace the T-7--maybe should've stepped up my 550 trial first. But, you can never have enough tools....
 
What is your average runout? I tried on my Dillon and got 003-006, but I wasn't using the floating lock rings you are using.

Mine averages 0.001 or less. I think a good FL die is a big part of the process.

I float my dies on o-rings instead of the fancy toolhead, works well. Funny enough, I use a FL die followed by a mandrel for 223 brass on a Dillon 1050 and it produces dead nuts straight ammo too. I don't even float that die, just crank it down on the toolhead and use a separate mandrel.
 
A tip for those who want a die that's less expensive than a full custom FL die, look into having Forster hone the neck diameter of one of their FL dies for only $15. If the Forster die is a good fit with your chamber size they are excellent and produce very straight ammo. I've been using them for Dasher, 6BRA and 223 with this Dillon 550 workflow with great results.
Getting a Forster die honed to the desired neck size is the best way to get a semi-custom die at low cost IMHO. The die has the most impact on how straight the sized brass is. The press usually plays a minor role, especially when floating the dies.
 
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Thanks again for sharing! This workflow has been a tremendous time saver for me.

One thing I changed which I think has sped things up is to separate the sizing and loading processes. One toolhead for depriming, FL size, and mandrel then a separate toolhead for powder and bullet seating. The sizing operation goes very fast through the press (likely just as fast as depriming separately), then I can tumble the lube off the empty brass instead of having to wipe loaded cases individually. It also allows for a faster lubing process without need for a case lube rack, just throw brass in a bin and spray with lube and swirl around since there's no concern about a little lube getting inside case neck (where it might otherwise cause powder to stick).

That is good advice. Do you clean your brass at all before sizing/depriming?
 
That is good advice. Do you clean your brass at all before sizing/depriming?

Corn cob tumble, anneal, then run through the Dillon for deprime, FL size, mandrel expander. Then tumble clean and trim/chamfer/debur as needed, store brass as "ready to load".
 
Do you need to uniform primer pockets on all brass for the modification of the priming system to work equally among all types of cartridges being loaded? Thanks again
 
Do you need to uniform primer pockets on all brass for the modification of the priming system to work equally among all types of cartridges being loaded? Thanks again
No. The primer system will handle a range of thickness/depths....you should not have a problem. Be sure to seat firmly. I've never crushed a primer such that it was damaged. But I have seen primers not seated to the bottom of the pocket and this is death for accuracy. Inconsistent primer seating shows up as larger SDs and delayed ignition.
 

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