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Update: Off topic. Tractor vs. Skid Steer

I have read this whole post. I agree, buy a 4wd tractor of 60-80 HP and a FEL. But not a mention of the tractors you are recommending. Do not even look at anything that says COMPACT! That leaves 90% of the Kubota line out! Look for UTILITY tractors, plain ole farm tractors. They are built heavier and will take rougher treatment. It is too bad the government got mixed up in engineering, the new diesel engines are an abomination. So, buy repairability, warranty and dealer. AND, HEAVIER IS BETTER

They make almost anything for 3point hitch and you will learn to hate it, look at the Quick hitch if you work alone. Same with FEL attachments, get something "quick change" and it would be nice if the tractor came with a front hydraulic pump so you could use Skid Steer attachments like mulchers and brush cutters.

Excavators, bulldozers and tracked loaders are nice if your budget can stand them. Watch these kids run this new equipment and unless you are blind you will realize it takes hours to learn to be proficient. HIRE

Things I have learned the hard way in 85 years.
Worth noting- older tractors are not the same as the new stuff being built. I own a 1994 Deere 1070 4wd with numerous attachments, including a backhoe. It was marketed as a 39hp compact tractor but will outperform any 50hp+two wheel drive tractor that I have ever been on. It’s rated at 35 pto hp.
I also own a kubota 7060 4wd with the “ultra cab” and front and rear hydraulics. The Kubota, while bigger and stronger, is not built as heavy duty as the older Deere. Also, the kubota has all the new emissions crap on it and it will shut down if you don’t clear the emissions as required. A pia for sure. I have done more work with the 1070 than I will ever be able to do with the 7060.
 
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I have had JD 1050, 2150, 2940, 2950, 7130, 6105M now. They keep getting better. Nothing built in the last 20 years is really user fixable. What goes wrong is electronic. Take care of it and maintain it and they will serve you well. I sold everyone of them for more than I bought them for new. Green pays for itself in the long term.
 
I have a little over 400 acres, sage and cedars mostly, not prime land but I like it, I have a Kubota 80hp with a dozen attachments, hydraulic hooks up in front too which I use all the time. I use it to pull a home made pull behind grader I bought off a guy to tend the roads most of the time but I am constantly using it for something. There are times I wish I had a skidster too.

If your really gonna use it then buying makes sense but if your just gonna use it a 2-3 times a year after you get your place cleared then renting is a good option. Renting eliminates maintenance for you, keeps you in good reliable equipment and you can change machines when you need to.

I’m a commercial contractor by trade, my partner likes to buy equipment, I tend to prefer to rent. Most of the items we’ve bought over the years have sat too much, it’s waste imo. Buy if your gonna rack up some hours on it, rent if it’s need here and there.
UNINTENDED FROWNIE
 
Married into an 1995 955 Deere, 4wd, FEL. That 3 hole Yanmar is the berries.....for 31 hp. Used it for 5' bush hog and misc jobs. Turf tires as they thought the belly mower would do the 2.5 acre yard and woods trails. She is on her 3rd diesel zero turn.
Wife had 17 acres logged 2 yrs ago so tops, branches and normal dead falls are the order of the day.
I needed a grapple, a tractor with more butt and hp for logs etc. After comparing chassis, wgt, regen/DPF, l went w a 2021, 2638, 38hp Mahindra, new old stock. No DPF or regen...they patented their design in '17. Their frame was the heaviest of JD and Kubota. JD has ALUMINUM housing their hind ends on the 30-40hp range. I was very surprised. I really wanted the Kubota but started researching and learned about the regen. Was told "Oh, just set the brake and run it at 2500 for 20 mins to clear it out." I could not get ready for that or a Diesel Particulate filter over $1,000.
I had my rears filled giving me 5k w loader, hooks welded on the bucket, and self installed the 3rd function. By all means get ag tires.....R14 or R16...can't remember which at the least if ags aren't on your unit. The R4s are for pavement. If you get into the 50hp and above, they will usually have ag tires.
I didn't want a cab b/c of the woods trail work. If you be buying a chain saw, the ECHOs are hellacious bang fer the buck. My CS620 is a champ.

Oh yeah, grapples. I did a LOT of research. You will find out about tensile strength vs heavier, cheaper steel. The heavier the grapple, the less it can lift of course. You only need enough width to cover your front tires for general work. No need for extra wgt or expense for another foot of width.
As mentioned, the longer wb and ground speed is nice. Cleaning out stalls, indoor work, short is good.
 
Update:
I bought a JD 5075e. 75 hp, premium cab, 3rd hydraulic function on the front, 2 rear remotes. Bought it used, a 2023 with 80 hours on it. Previous owner needed a bigger tractor. It's a beast. Easy to drive and operate.

PopCharlieJD 5075e.jpg
 
a 3 point box blade, and a bucket, or a pto mower can get a lot of work done. A 4-wheel tractor, 30-40hp is more versatile. A skid steer is more handy and easy to maneuver. But not so good for grading. A 4-wheel drive tractor can maintain a road much better. I adjust my gannon box blade at an angle leaning down on the right hand side. Drive the tractor in reverse and can cut a road with crown in it. One side at a time like a road grader. I was impressed with how much earth I could move in one pass
 
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I needed a skid for some projects and, kind of on a whim (found a good deal), I bought one instead of renting. That was about 25 years ago and I haven't been without one since and my stable of attachments has continued to grow.

My property is quite wet so, I bought a set of steel tracks and I have never been stuck since...they will go anywhere.

I sold the first skid steer for a huge profit and only had to pay a few thousand out of pocket to buy a much bigger and newer machine. I will ALWAYS have a skid or track loader...they are just so handy that, after a few months of using it, you will wonder how you got by all these years without one.

I agree with most people here that it would be best to have both a tractor and a skid or CTL but, if forced to choose one, I would go with the latter option everyday and twice on sundays.

A bit of advice though, either buy a newer machine with a warranty OR, as I did, have the courage, fortitude and equipment to do maintenance and minor to moderate repairs on your own. It would get very expensive having to call out a mechanic to do that stuff for you.

You notice, I didn't mention "knowledge"...that can be acquired as you go (although it helps to have it when you start) as long as you move slow and actually take the time to research how to do things as you go. It CAN be rather intimidating to dive in and try and trouble shoot and repair problems on the machines though. Especially once you tilt the cab and see that the layout is designed to be worked on by people with the hands of a 6 year old, NOT a full grown man.

As to renting the machines when you need them...I have to disagree. Around here, it is about $300 a day to rent a machine of the size I have. Then you have delivery fees and the such. I occasionally have jobs where I work steadily for a few days or weeks but, most of the time, it is a few hours today, a few more next week and few more next month, etc. If I rented as I needed, I would have spent more in rentals in the first year than I have into my current machine.

Good luck on your decision and, have fun with it.
 
a 3 point box blade, and a bucket, or a pto mower can get a lot of work done. Plus a 4-wheel drive tractor with coolant in the rear tires can grade a road and move a lot of snow. A 4-wheel tractor, 30-40hp is more versatile. A skid steer is more handy and easy to maneuver. But not so good fro grading. A 4-wheel drive tractor can maintain a road much better. I adjust my gannon box blade at an angle leaning down on the right hand side. Drive the tractor in reverse and can cut a road with crown in it. One side at a time like a road grader. I was impressed with how much earth I could move in one pass
Mine does have MFWD. 3 pt box blade is the next buy.

PopCharlie
 
Good move, Having a skid steer is handy, but I can't imagine mowing 30 acres with it. Ive seen a mower attachment for them but it looks awkward to use.
 
Mine does have MFWD. 3 pt box blade is the next buy.

PopCharlie
Good choice. I have been maintaining my road for almost 40 years and it will do as good a job as a road grader. And you can put any attachment in the back you need.
 
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That’s a beast of a tractor. Since you already have the third function, a grapple on the front will be an easy, awesome addition. Since I bought a grapple, it has been the primary implement on the front of my tractor.
 
I will second the need for a grapple. Instead of the box blade with a mold board, get a landscape rake with spring teeth. It will do a much better job of smoothing driveways.
 
I will second the need for a grapple. Instead of the box blade with a mold board, get a landscape rake with spring teeth. It will do a much better job of smoothing driveways.
We have one of those big mining truck tires that has been cut in half and the flat side drags on the ground. The thing has been great to maintain roads.
 
Good move, Having a skid steer is handy, but I can't imagine mowing 30 acres with it. Ive seen a mower attachment for them but it looks awkward to use.
I have about 7 of the 30 acres cleared, the rest is wooded. 5 of the 7 cleared acres are being farmed by a local farmer. He's got hay planted. I'm only mowing about 1.5 acres around my house. I bought a big Stihl RZ-560 zero-turn mower to handle this. Takes about 2 hours.

PopCharlie
 
also don't forget you are going to need a mower. I have 10 acres that backs up to our 40 acres and the idea of mowing 10 acres is a treat. Find a neighbor with Mini Ex as you will probably need that at some point too
 

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