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Ultra Sonic Solution

In Jason's article there is mention of using 50% Vinegar. Is that normal white vinegar OR is it vinegar cut,50/50 mix) using H20 ? Really curious before I start using my new ultra sonic cleaner. already have BC and might just use that initially until I hear back on the vinegar solution.


Thanks,
Will
 
Will--I'm not Jason, but I used 50% white vinegar and 50% water for the intitial cleaning and the BC solution to neutralize the acidity of the vinegar on the next operation.
 
That makes sense. I'll be getting my distilled H2O tonight. After you do a cycle do you strain the solution or just pour out ? If you strain what material are you using ?
 
Will--I'm with Preacher on that one--just dump the vinegar and water. However, with the BC, I pour it into a holding container and let it sit for several days to let the sediment settle out. Then I carefully pour the clear portion through a white gas funnel that has the filter material in it. I think you could also use a tea strainer and put some type of cloth in the bottom of the strainer to keep the "gunk" from getting into the stuff you are pouring off. I DO NOT mix that used BC mix into any of my pristine, new BC though. After a couple of uses, I will dump the BC mix too.
 
Good deal. Also heard back from JB on usage and I'm almost ready to give it a go. I bought a larger version of the Harbor Freight machine,2.5 liter) and I can place 2- 600ml beakers in it. Q?, there is a plastic tray with this machine ... is it OK to place beakers on tray or will it work best if beakers are suspended ?
Thanks
 
The plastic may be OK but as a rule things being cleaned need to be suspended to be able to use it to it's full potential...............
 
Old old thread but in the interest of limiting posts -


"The plastic may be OK but as a rule things being cleaned need to be suspended to be able to use it to it's full potential..............."

That statement seems incongruent to the article's recommendation to use glass beakers. Doesnt specify to put the beakers on the bottom of the metal cleaning case or suspend them in the provided cage. I have new US cleaner with a suspended wire cage. I used my old formula which replicated the one in the article which was entirely good, and the new results are mierda. So... if you use glass beakers, do they sit on the bottom or are they suspended ? Does anyone use the provided wire suspension cage ? Trying to pin down why my new efforts are poor. My old HF cleaner finally lost the timer function and was replaced with the Amazon one. - thanks
 
What is BC? Thanks.
Why not use baking soda solution?

Birchwood-Casey Cleaner (?) To be clear, my cases (25-06 necked out to 6.5-06 Winchester brand) are carbon free and the primer pockets clean but the brass has a nasty dirty yellow and is slightly tacky. Methinks inadequate Baking soda rinse ??
 
So... if you use glass beakers, do they sit on the bottom or are they suspended ?
To minimize attenuation of the ultrasonic waves you want the GLASS beaker close to but not making contact with the bottom or sides of the unit. Why glass? It's more transparent to the ultrasonic waves. Thin stainless would be even better but they're more expensive and hard to find.

Ideally you want the container (beaker) centered over the transducer(s). Some units have two or three transducers so it's advantageous to have multiple beakers, one centered over each. I had two beakers suspended through holes in a Lexan sheet. There used to be a video of my setup on here somewhere but it may be gone now....

By the way, the part of the article you mentioned that's printed on a blue background and credited to Gunamonth was written by me (old user name). Pics of two 600 ml beakers in a Crest 120 watt sonic power where the liquid appears to be boiling apparently aren't around anymore. That sum-bitch would clean even in plain water and it sure didn't take ten or fifteen minutes.

Keep in mind this was all before tumbling in wet stainless steel pins was discovered. If you don't want to treat your brass that roughly there are easier, more gentle was to clean the primer pockets and case necks. The effect of carbon buildup inside the case has never been tested so no one knows if it has a significant effect. Also, the magic solutions including vinegar, Lemi Shine and even Citranox work by dissolving just a tiny bit of the brass case under the dirt to get it to come loose.

Now, if you want to clean a bolt carrier group it's a whole different story.
 
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Thanks Dave. What is the benefit of using a beaker, which is placed on a wire basket, instead of just placing the casings directly on the wire basket ? I have this 120 watt one - Note the basket1708145427789.png
 
I have been using ultrasonic cleaners for a while now. I use a mixture of distilled water dawn dish soap and lemishine dishwasher booster. My large cleaner can service several thousand cases at once. Here is a good hack; I put all my items in a heavy-duty freezer bag. Then I fill the bag with enough solution to cover what I am cleaning. I place the bag in the basket then fill the cleaner with distilled water to cover the items to be cleaned. Once done all the dirty crap is captured in the plastic bag and you use far less solution and do not need to clean the cleaner. I have used it to clean auto parts, sockets, wrenches and many other things. The large one has 6 transducers and the Hornaday has one for minor cleaning.
utcleaner.jpg
 
I have a Hornady 1L I found on clearance. Hot softened tap water, one drop of Dawn ultra, light shake of Lemishine. 2 cycles usually completely cleans brass, even the brass from my suppressed carbine.
 
What is the benefit of using a beaker
It's a lot easier to empty, rinse and refill a beaker than to empty and clean the entire unit. My Crest unit had a drain valve but that was still a PITA compared to a beaker.

By the way, I had dividers in the beaker (pieces cut from old ammo boxes) that kept the cases standing upright. This made it easy to get the case head directly over the transducer as the primer pocket and around the flash hole inside the case are the hardest to clean.

I didn't use the basket at all. I cut a piece of plastic sheet about 1/8" thick that sat on the top edge of the tank, cut two round holes in it that the beakers fit through and were held about 1/4" from the bottom of the tank.

About Citranox - It's great stuff for this application. I spoke with their chief chemist several times about this and he sent me several samples that I passed on to other members here. Since the main ingredient is citric acid it's less likely to have a negative effect on the brass but still cleans very well. The down side is the smallest container you could buy at the time was a full gallon and aside from being a lifetime supply it wasn't cheap - around $75 IIRC. The Dawn and Lemi Shine mixture is a start in that direction.
 
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Here is a good hack; I put all my items in a heavy-duty freezer bag. Then I fill the bag with enough solution to cover what I am cleaning. I place the bag in the basket then fill the cleaner with distilled water to cover the items to be cleaned.

Out of curiosity, why use distilled water on the outside of the bag? Wouldn't tap water be just as effective and a lot cheaper?
 
I started out many years ago using Vinegar with water, but through reading it seems Vinegar attacks the brass in a way that's not good, I think it make it brittle too.

I notice that brass I cleaned years ago with vinegar have all turned a dark amber color, as it keeps oxidizing the brass.

The active ingredient in Hornady One Shot, and others, is Citric Acid. And after I started using that, I notice the brass is clean and does not oxidize like the vinegar. I use about a teaspoon of powdered citric acid with about 40 ounces of regular water. You can add a few drops of Dawn to it to help clean also.

A good source for citric acid powder is brew supply places, it's used in making wine. It's pretty cheap. I bought a pound of it and put it in an empty peanut butter container, marked it with a label.

The cleaning solution works better when its hot. I have a larger empty juice container, and I marked a line on it for 40 and 60 ounces. 40 ounce for a smaller batch I use 1 tps of citric acid, or a larger batch 60 ounces use 1.5 tps citric acid. 60 ounces mostly fills my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner.

I start to fill the the juice container with hot tap water, and part way through stop and add the citric acid powder, then fill the remainder. Then I can agitate the container and dissolve the powder in the water.

When I pour the mixed solution into the ultrasonic cleaner bin, I stop about 2/3 way through and add a few drops of Dawn liquid (so it doesn't foam up too much) and gently add the rest of the solution, to help evenly disburse the soap.

After I clean the brass I put it into a bowl with running hot water, to rinse the cleaning solution from inside and outside the brass, before I dry it. Neutralize the acidity, also can add a little baking soda.

You can use the juice container to store the mixed solution, if you did not use it much. And remember, before you start to clean shot brass that's been on the ground, to rinse it in a colander with a little soap, to get the loose dirt off, makes the solution last a lot longer as it stays clean. (ask me how I know).
 
Out of curiosity, why use distilled water on the outside of the bag? Wouldn't tap water be just as effective and a lot cheaper?
Tap water has chemicals, salts and calcium's which leave a buildup on the inside of the ultrasonic cleaner. The chlorine has the possibility of degrading the drain valve interior. I have free distilled water made from my dehumidifier and save the water from it. Think about it it's moisture from the air condensed into water.
 

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