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type 38 6.5 jap

My dad just gave me my uncle's old type38 which he brought back from Japan after the war. It is great shape, bore looks great and has all marksand proofs on it.

I used to shoot it as a kid and We could ring the 300 yard gong no problem.

I have 3 boxes of reloads. i know my dad used imr 4064, cci 200 primers and Hornady 160gr round nose.

Where can I find some info on reloading for it? is there a site similar to this for old military rifles?

Thanks
 
It should still be in any hornady manual as far as I know or go straight to the powder site for reloading imfo. I just looked and it was still in the fith edition so you should have any trouble with reload imfo. If you have a question PM me.
 
Lyman , Speer , hornadys , maybe Lee , old books , I can take pics of the data but don't tell anyone , I think it's copy rite . Dang spell check .
It's all going to be old powder data so reduce the loads a bit when using modern powder even though it's maybe the same name and number .
 
One simple solution is to use the Hodgdon Reloading Center for the data:

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle

Select your cartridge, bullet and manufacturer of the powder then read the chart produced.

And another from Reloader's Nest:

http://www.reloadersnest.com/frontpage.asp?CaliberID=206

This is from Norma:

https://www.norma.cc/en/Ammunition-Academy/Loading-Data/65-Japanese-Arisaka/

This should get you started. Remember the mantra; start low and work up slowly watching for signs of pressure.

Regards.
 
On an old rifle like that I would start low and stay there. All you want it to do is go BANG and hit the target somewhere.
 
On an old rifle like that I would start low and stay there. All you want it to do is go BANG and hit the target somewhere.

Why would I want to do that? why would you not want to work it to see how far you can shoot it accurately? and what does being old have to do with wanting it to go bang.

Thanks to the others who posted the info I was looking for. much appreciated.
 
The type 38 6.5 Jap actions are one of the strongest actions out there. It is a basic clone of the '98 Mauser. but its major drawback was it cocked on closing. Many, many of these were converted to a wide range of calibers. I had a custom one in 244 Remington that was one of the most accurate rifles I ever shot. Don't sell the type 38 actions short.
 
Why would I want to do that? why would you not want to work it to see how far you can shoot it accurately? and what does being old have to do with wanting it to go bang.

Thanks to the others who posted the info I was looking for. much appreciated.

Interpreting Rayjay's comment: It is "smart" to keep the pressures low on some older guns. I keep that in mind when loading for my old Swede M38 small ring Mauser. I think differently on the "hitting the target somewhere" I worked on loads for my Swede and it can shoot some very respectable groups, now. I had a lot of fun doing it, too.
 
Hey, I was just messing around with my 1942 dated Savage No.4 Mk.1 [ no star ] Lee Enfield the other day. I've had it since the early 80's and never shot it. Mismatched bolt and beat to death. I may finally brush out the bbl real good and see if it will go bang. Looks fine mechanically. So I do know a bit about milsurps.

Here's some info for the OP. On the back of the box of Norma 6.5 Jap ammo I have it has the ballistics. 156 gr round nose soft point at 2067 FPS , 1481 muzzle energy.
 
I shot my first deer with with a 6.5 Jap. Peep site and deer running wide open. One shot. Didn't run 10 yards. I think I was 11 yrs old. Of course in those days we couldn't afford store bought ammo. I always marveled at how long those 6.5 bullets were to my young eyes, Still got the gun and some of those reloads I made. WWII surplus gun my grampa and his friend got for me to use.
 
The model 38 type rifles are pretty tough actions supposedly exceeding the strength of the original 98 mausers. I have seen many a high power rifle built around these actions so get it checked out by an older gunsmith that has dealt with them in the first place. Make sure it is matching numbers especially the receiver serial number to the digits on the bolt so we know it hasn't been altered and then have the smith try a go gage and no go gage to make certain it is tight headspace. If you are really worried have it x-rayed for cracks but I seriously doubt you will find anything wrong on the danger level with this rifle because they were produced under non-war conditions and the machining was close a commercial action of the day.
 
Weren't the later (very end of the Pacific conflict) model 38 actions cast instead of machined from bar stock?
 
Weren't the later (very end of the Pacific conflict) model 38 actions cast instead of machined from bar stock?
de Haas mentions that cast iron Arisakas were made for training purposes. They were only designed to fire blanks.

He also mentions that late war Arisakas (e.g. 1945) were crude but serviceable, lacking in fit & finish and adjustable sights. "On several of these rifles I've owned and examined, the receivers were not too bad, but the bolts appeared to be rough undersized forgings with only enough machining done to make them work."
 
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