turning a morse taper

[butchlambert]

a correct morse taper needs to be ground. Period! Otherwise it will not hold in female holder. It will continually come loose.

Check my post #8.
Butch

 

[Robert]

a correct morse taper needs to be ground. Period! Otherwise it will not hold in female holder. It will continually come loose.

Buyboysellboy,
Then, I think you need some more experience and practise in turning. Making a Morse taper (or any other taper BTW) is a common exercise in egineeering school exams.... High level ones includes making the famale one as well....

Ground is of corse much better, as it is also the only way to finish a hardened tool....

I think also you should have a close look at some Morse-tapered drills who show heat treatment at end of manufacture..Those are obviously not ground....nor turned either!!!!.... Rolled.... and their however bear correctly

R.G.C

 

[Fitch]

I've machine MT shanks on things several times. I use a 9" SB model A that has a taper turning attachment. I set it using trial and error. After making sure the tail stock was aligned, I put an existing MT shank between centers and adjusted the taper attachment until a dial indicator would track with essentially no measurable error when the carriage was moved from end to end.

The adjustment process will drive you a bit nuts, it takes a while to work out a way that converges, but with patience you can make it work.

Fitch

 

[shortgrass]

Using a tapering attachment would be the best way to go. I'd still work between centers. However, if the lathe isn't equiped with one, I'll stick with off-setting the tail stock. In the case of my B&S #9 tool holders, adjustments to the tailstock off-set had to be made for each holder I made. As the hole for the tool shank got larger (made holders for 1/4" thru 3/4") the angle changed slightly. Now, as for a "learning experience", copying an existing taper sounds more like learning machine set-up, not gaining 'engineering' experience. Robert, I'm not sure of the two step taper, with the groove, because of compound limitations. Seems to me, it would be very difficult to keep both on the same plane, so as the entire surface would contact the socket. Whether it be a B&S or Morse taper, these are/should be 'self locking' as you already know. Making any of these on an engine/tool room lathe isn't the best way to get the work accomplished efficently and accurately, but, it can be done.

 

[jonbearman]

Morse tapers are normally turned oversize and sent to heat treat and then come back for final GRINDING as a lathe is very crude to do finish work on tooling.It is what i do for a living at the Gleason Works in rochester,ny.Our dept makes tooling for the gear cutting machines we manufacture.

 

[butchlambert]

Jon,
You are correct. You can homeshop it all you want, but if you want it right, you need to grind it.
Butch

 

[jscandale]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morse_taper#Morse

I found this pretty helpful when I turned a morse taper bushing a while back. I turned mine with a taper attachment that I have on the lathe. It took a while of trial and error to get the right angle but it work out just fine in the end.

JS