Trying the 6 Creed for 1000 F-Open

[jaygorski]

Thanks Tim! The neck wall thickness of 6mm Creedmoor brass is right at 13.5 thousandths. I turn mine down to 12 thousandths with a .271 reamer neck. This will give you 4 thousandths clearance. My freebore is .140. It does work well with the 115 DTAC. However, having said that, I would now have opted for a .155 to .160. I think this would give a bit more flexibility. I am also using VV N160, which is cool burning. I am still getting 3080-3085 with the DTACs without high pressure. The cases come out like smooth butter. My E.S.s are NOT what I like, they are running at 12-15ft. e.s. I like single digits, however, I can't seem to get there with the N160. Apparently it is not short-circuiting my 1000 yard vertical!

I shoot pretty much H4350 and 4451, might try 100V again next year since I have almost 4lbs, it has shown promise in the past. Get very decent SD/ES, usually in the 14/5 range.

 

[ben_g]

Curious as to why you waited to be aiming off the target before dialling the scope??

I lay down at 800m recently I’m a comp and dialled in 9moa wind straight up.
I prefer not no hold outside the 6 ring (10ring over there) unless my marker is exceptionally fast and conditions changing very fast.

 

[ShootDots]

Curious as to why you waited to be aiming off the target before dialling the scope??

I lay down at 800m recently I’m a comp and dialled in 9moa wind straight up.
I prefer not no hold outside the 6 ring (10ring over there) unless my marker is exceptionally fast and conditions changing very fast.

If the wind is pretty steady and I was off the board, I would have dialed in ALL the wind so I would have been aiming at the X ring. However, the wind was changing from "almost full-value" to 3/4 maybe 2/3, even down towards 1/2 value. With winds well in excess of 20+ m.p.h., even small "direction" changes will move you a minute or more! From say 2/3rds value to 1/2 value would be well over 1 minute! That is not including wind gusts etc.. I put in 3m.o.a. of wind and a minor change that was virtually impossible to tell moved me into the 7 ring! It was a "safer" move to simply get the wind out.. I would lose points from time to time, however they would have been into the 9 ring not the 8 and 7 rings! Had I NOT put the wind in, instead of losing 17 points that match, I would have maybe lost "only" (LOL) about 13-14 points! Believe it or not that would have moved me UP in the standings 2 places!

 

[ben_g]

If the wind is pretty steady and I was off the board, I would have dialed in ALL the wind so I would have been aiming at the X ring. However, the wind was changing from "almost full-value" to 3/4 maybe 2/3, even down towards 1/2 value. With winds well in excess of 20+ m.p.h., even small "direction" changes will move you a minute or more! From say 2/3rds value to 1/2 value would be well over 1 minute! That is not including wind gusts etc.. I put in 3m.o.a. of wind and a minor change that was virtually impossible to tell moved me into the 7 ring! It was a "safer" move to simply get the wind out.. I would lose points from time to time, however they would have been into the 9 ring not the 8 and 7 rings! Had I NOT put the wind in, instead of losing 17 points that match, I would have maybe lost "only" (LOL) about 13-14 points! Believe it or not that would have moved me UP in the standings 2 places!

I always wind my wind on.
We had a recent state level event in 50-60kph winds where I mentioned needing around 9MOA wind on the 7mm’s

It was near on impossible to pick 1-2moa gusts and letoffs. But I find winding the average on and aiming either side of the 6 ring (10 in the US) far easier than trying to pick a spot somewhere in no mans land to aim.
If changes are going from full value to 1/4 or less I would either wait the change out (provided I can see it) or make a call on a large change and dial it in to the scope.

And I know about direction change making a big diff!! With speeds up at 50-60kph from 3oclock it was very hard to see small direction changes as the flags are square to you position.
When it quartered from 1-2clock the direction changes were even worse with their effect but at least can be seen a little more easily.

I know a few shooters who never touch their scope, works for them in mild and light conditions but in strong conditions I don’t think they fair to well, particularly at longer ranges. The 308 guys were running 14moa of wind, where would you aim off for that?!?! And this was only 800metres (880yards or so )

 

[ShootDots]

There is a fellow I shoot with here in AZ that dials in wind all the time. He does very well with it. He will dial it in so that you shoot at the X. It is really the same thing>>>you dial it in or "hold" it in so to speak. I have a terrible time dialing unless it is very steady conditions. Both work, however, my experience tells me that a high velocity wind change mistake with wind dialed in, can be very costly. It is all a personal preference deal anyhow. I just wish I were better at reading the wind no matter which method I use! LOL!!

 

[Geno C]

I find a lot of guys dial if they have a simple crosshair or dot reticle and guys with hashed reticles tend to dial less

 

[lawman29]

The 308 guys were running 14moa of wind, where would you aim off for that?

I shoot a March scope with has hash marks (MTR-3 reticle). What you have is a bunch of mini-cross hairs to use as you see fit. I am actually on the x or 10 ring when I'm firing...not on the edge of the target etc.

 

[243Mendoza]

I always wind my wind on.
We had a recent state level event in 50-60kph winds where I mentioned needing around 9MOA wind on the 7mm’s
...

If you dial every wind change, you can loose awareness of your windage settings especially on quick changing winds with 3 to 4 moa changes.