trimming ejector spring on m700

[AdamJ]

My trued 700 is hard on case necks sometimes, was wanting to trim the ejector spring. Is there any rule of thumb on how many coils to cut off or is it try and see? Half the time I have to pull cases out of the action as they hop off the extractor after they hit the inside of the action and land on the SS sled. Thanks for the help.

 

[jhord]

I've never seen a rule of thumb on it. The spring is so easy to take out (with a good pin punch) that I would just experiment cutting 1 coil at a time until it does what you want. On one of my 700's I have it set so the case lays free on the SS follower. On another that sees mag feeding on occasion, I have it set to dump the cases out just next to the rifle. It still puts a tiny ding in the neck, but no scratches.

 

[alf]

I do the trial and error thing also.

I use a bench grinder rather than clipping coils.

 

[rcw3]

I do the trial and error thing also.

I use a bench grinder rather than clipping coils.

Dittos to Alf's posting and using a bench grinder to shorten the spring - much easier to control exactly how much you remove. My suggestion is to also buy a couple extra springs before you start, that way if you mess up and go too short you are not sitting around "up a creek without a paddle".

Robert

 

[johara1]

Don't trim the spring, get a lighter one. I now some that carry them like Pierce. If it's coming of it sounds like the ejector is too short or not enough travel.....jim

 

[matorre]

actually sounds like a worn / cut ejector spring.

Michael

 

[eddief]

Or the ejector is not depressing fully. Take a punch and press the ejector all the way down as far as it will go. If it does not go just below flush in the hole that could very well be your problem also.

If it's not depressing all the way, knock out the roll pin with a 1/16 pin punch and take out the ejector and the spring. Clean out the hole by hand with a close fitting drill bit, then blow it out, re-assemble and check it again.

This won't cure the necks getting dented, but very well could be the reason why they are hopping off the extractor before being ejected.

 

[AdamJ]

Ejects and extracts very well. To clarify, half the time when the neck is just pulled out of the chamber, the neck is whipped over to the chamber wall or lug recess and that impact sometimes knocks the case loose from the extractor, and it lands on the SS insert. Or it extracts fine and the case is tossed out the action cleanly. The ejector depresses below the bolt face fine, just needs a little less spring tension. Is the ejector tool required or is there a easy/cheaper alternative to getting the roll pin out? Thanks

 

[rogn]

A good quality 1/16" SHORT pinpunch to start the pin out the first time , then follow with a longer one. An alternative to cutting the coils is to use a small torch, such as abutane mini, to detemper and collape a coil at a time. This helps keep the spring from cocking and creating debris in the ejector bore. The right tension still ejcts nicely without flattening the case neck. Or creating scratches.

 

[artbosco]

I have it set to dump the cases out just next to the rifle. It still puts a tiny ding in the neck, but no scratches.

I purchased a small 17" X 24" rug from Bed, Bath and Beyond for about $9 that I eject my cases onto. NO Dings, NO scratches.

I shoot a 6PPC with very thin turned necks.

 

[johara1]

I can't understand why cutting a coil on a spring will lower the weight. It just shortens the travel. The only gain by cutting one is if it is coil binding. They tell me that one out of a bic lighter will work with less force i never tried it.
Put a compression spring on the scale and check the weight,then cut a coil and check it again over the same distance and they will be the same or more than the longer one. get a lighter one and end your problems.....jim

 

[rogn]

The spring is preloaded, shortening lowers the preload

 

[johara1]

Yes but it can not lower the spring rate......jim

 

[artbosco]

I can't understand why cutting a coil on a spring will lower the weight. It just shortens the travel. The only gain by cutting one is if it is coil binding. They tell me that one out of a bic lighter will work with less force i never tried it.
Put a compression spring on the scale and check the weight,then cut a coil and check it again over the same distance and they will be the same or more than the longer one. get a lighter one and end your problems.

I tend to keep the simple fixes in life ... simple.

Remove a small pin, trim the spring, put it back, insert the pin, test it. [a coil to start with, then 1/2 thereafter till the requisite amount of ejection your looking for is achieved, for me about 2 to 3 inches out of the action]. Al Nyhus taught me that fix years ago.

With all due respect, this isn't rocket science. No need for an understanding of spring physics, a scale, or purchase of a lighter spring. Life's too short. Keep it simple.

 

[johara1]

Your a hundred percent right, do it right the first time. get a light spring from some one like John Pierce and cut it to fit ,one time. I been there and done that.....jim