Trigger Info Needed

[Nitemann]

I picked up an old school benchrest rifle built on a Remington XP-100 action that hadn't been shot in many, many years. The first 50 rounds went with no issues but then it started not cooking when I closed the bolt. I discovered I could push the trigger forward while closing the bolt and it would cock. The trigger is very light as expected and the action is glue into the stock. It has 3 adjust screws on the bottom of the trigger, 1 in front and 2 to the rear. I'm thinking it needs more sear engagement or or a little more spring tension to reset the trigger. I'm not sure what each screw does and hoping someone can help. Also if anyone knows what the make of this trigger is that would be great. See pic to hopefully help.

 

[CJ6]

I'd clean the trigger as a first step. See if that helps.

 

[Sechrist2015]

I don't claim to be a trigger specialist, but it looks like a few of the Hart triggers we have. I had one start doing the same thing and I still haven't figured it out. It currently lives in a bag in the top of the safe and i slid a jewel in its place.

Pulled the S.S. below from another forum as I couldn't remember or find anything here. The link below is to a Hart trigger that sold recently with photos on this forum for accuracy.

https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/w-hart-2oz-benchrest-trigger.4057798/

 

[Nitemann]

Thanks, looks like it's a Hart. I'll try adjusting it slightly to if that helps.

 

[Bill K]

If that action is actually glued into the stock and you are not able to pull it to fully clean the trigger, etc.
I would just take each screw you can get to and turn it one way or the other and remember how much and see what effect you get. Point being in this case to set it slightly tighter for release of the sear/trigger pull.
More than likely it is the forward one.

 

[Hal]

Remove the trigger guard, punch the 2 cross pins out and clean it or send it to Hart and have them look at it.

Hal

 

[tmwinds]

Remove the trigger guard, punch the 2 cross pins out and clean it or send it to Hart and have them look at it.

Hal

How do you drive the cross pins out if the action is glued in?

 

[CJ6]

Most of the time, if it's a glue in, holes will be put in the side of the stock to drive the pins out.

 

[tmwinds]

Most of the time, if it's a glue in holes will be put in the side of the stock to drive the pins out.

After blowing the photo up, I believe I see the holes. Also, if it needs sear engagement adjustment it is the front screw. CW decreases engagement and CCW increases engagement. Adjust in 1/8 turns until it cocks correctly and passes a bump test.

 

[Hal]

The action stays glued in. There are 2 trigger retaining pins. One located on each side of the bolt handle. Drive the pins out and the trigger will come out the bottom of the stock.
You'll need two short "slave" pins( the same width as the trigger) to hold trigger together when reassembling the trigger.
That was old school, now the custom action use trigger brackets.

Hal

 

[Bc'z]

The action stays glued in. There are 2 trigger retaining pins. One located on each side of the bolt handle. Drive the pins out and the trigger will come out the bottom of the stock.
You'll need two short "slave" pins( the same width as the trigger) to hold trigger together when reassembling the trigger.
That was old school, now the custom action use trigger brackets.

Hal

Couple of drill bits should work as slave pins

 

[Sniperhandle]

I picked up an old school benchrest rifle built on a Remington XP-100 action that hadn't been shot in many, many years. The first 50 rounds went with no issues but then it started not cooking when I closed the bolt. I discovered I could push the trigger forward while closing the bolt and it would cock. The trigger is very light as expected and the action is glue into the stock. It has 3 adjust screws on the bottom of the trigger, 1 in front and 2 to the rear. I'm thinking it needs more sear engagement or or a little more spring tension to reset the trigger. I'm not sure what each screw does and hoping someone can help. Also if anyone knows what the make of this trigger is that would be great. See pic to hopefully help.View attachment 1495802

When she stops COOKING, You need to replace her!

 

[TaperPin]

Old gummed up oil has to be cleaned out before anything else.

 

[Nitemann]

Adjusted the first screw behind the trigger which I believe is the weight of pull since it looked to bethe farthest out and not putting much tension on the spring if any. Seems to fix the issue and everything is working as I should. Thanks for all the comments.