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Torque Tuning a Savage Action, Does it work?

After reading this article posted to this site several years ago; https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/ I've been performing this tuning technique on my and some fellow shooters rifles with good success. But I've never attempted to quantify the results of my efforts until recently.

The target below is a series of 10 rings with aiming dot. Shooting one round per ring and measuring the difference between point of aim (POA) and point of impact (POI). Wind flags were in use, winds were light and variable. Temps were mid 70's.

The chambering is 223Rem. The action is a stainless steel Savage model 12 small shank, two actions screws, J series purchased about 10 years go. It is installed in a Richards Microfit Benchrest thumbhole stock that is pillared and epoxy bedded by me. The barrel is a Criterion 8 twist, 26 inch that shoots remarkable well. The load is a 69 gn Lapua Scenar L over Varget with 205m primer.

I've labeled the rows and columns for clarity. Note target B1 is an annomility, and I both count it but also discount it in my figures for shot improvement after performing a torque tune.

The average error from point of aim to point of impact was reduced from .35 inch to .12 inch after adjusting the rear actions screw torque. If I throw out the B1 annomility the average for A1 thru A5 becomes .29 which reduces the degree of POI error slightly, but is still significant compared to the post adjustment targets.

The sample size of this test is admittedly small, but is at least some evidence of the value of this tuning procedure, and is offered as such.

As always, YMMV.
 

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Sorry about that, the pic size was too large to attach and it took a few minutes to resize it for posting. I had to post the written portion before undertaking the resizing task.
 
More specifics would be nice. What was the modification to the rear action screw torque? Where did you start, and what gave the best results? What was the torque on the front screw?
 
More specifics would be nice. What was the modification to the rear action screw torque? Where did you start, and what gave the best results? What was the torque on the front screw?
I left that out for several reasons. For starters obviously my torque wrench is not your torque wrench, and that matters. I have followed the procedure outlined in the attached article many times, always resulting in improved precision. Stock materials vary, bedding varies, but generally if you follow the article you'll see improvement. Also not mentioned in the article is the need to free float the rear tang on the Savage.

I've performed this with good success on stock model 12FV plastic stocks in various chamberings.
 
A friend has had close connections with the military shooting teams and he told me that for Remingtons that are pillar bedded that they experiment with action screw torque. To do this they might start at 45 inch pounds, shoot a test, loosen and retorque five inch pounds more and repeat. I believe that the generally accepted maximum for those actions is 65 inch pounds, and that is best done with steel bottom metal. Bottom line, don't assume, test.
 
I have used the info in the article linked. I started with 65 inch pounds on the front screw and 10 inch pounds on the rear. I shot three rounds at 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 and 40 inch pounds on the rear action screw. At 30 inch pounds the group shrank noticeably and began to increase in size at 35 and 40 inch pounds. My rifle has a 26” varmint contour “Shilen” barrel. My stock is pillar and glass bedded.
 
What torque wrench (model #, etc) did you use? Not questioning your methods or results, just curious. I have read the linked article a couple times, and have considered doing the "test", but never got around to it.
 
I have used the info in the article linked. I started with 65 inch pounds on the front screw and 10 inch pounds on the rear. I shot three rounds at 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 and 40 inch pounds on the rear action screw. At 30 inch pounds the group shrank noticeably and began to increase in size at 35 and 40 inch pounds. My rifle has a 26” varmint contour “Shilen” barrel. My stock is pillar and glass bedded.

Very similar results. Two separate Savages liked 30# on the rear screw and the tang free-floated. I used 45# on the front screw.
 
I've used it on my Stevens 200 in 7mm-08AI.
Then did again after i changed the barrel to 250 Savage.
Also done on my Savage 111 in 7mm Rem Mag.

Yup, it works!
Highly recommend doing it!
 
What torque wrench (model #, etc) did you use? Not questioning your methods or results, just curious. I have read the linked article a couple times, and have considered doing the "test", but never got around to it.
....not top of the line, but this is what I use.
 
One potential caveat to this type of test might be if you started it shooting the top row, where the shots are less precise. It can be difficult to rule out that your shooting might have gotten better as you fired more shots and got yourself "dialed in". There are at least a couple ways around this, either of which which you may have actually done in this test. The first would be to fire another target prior to the test target to be sure you're fully warmed up and dialed in with your shooting. The second would be to start the top row with what you believe is the best torque setting, then work your way down to the least precise setting.

Regardless, I have seen quite a few reports from Savage shooters suggesting this type of action screw torque setting can make a noticeable difference in precision. Too many, in fact, not to believe there is something to it. Your results mirror those of previous test I have seen posted, so it looks like you now know where to set the action torque of your rifle for the best performance. Thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks, Ned. Yes, I did warm up on a separate target.

Today I shot the large shank target action in 6BR proving two loads, 88 gn and 80 gn Bergers.

Starting with a loosened rear screw (the target action has a three screw system) I shot into a one inch dot at 100 yds and the spread was about 1.3 moa while using my 'proven' 88 gn load.

After torquing the rear screw up to about 15 in lbs, group size shrank to .24. Then at 20 in lbs it went down to .14

Another three shot group was .18. When I torqued to 22 in lbs and it shrank to .12

Lots of variables here, wind, my skills (ha) distractions, small sample size, but generally I see the same results performing this technique. I"ll be shooting this in a score match next weekend. I don't expect to win or even place competing against the 30BR crowd, but its a whole lot of fun and i'm learning a crap ton from the other club members.
 
One potential caveat to this type of test might be if you started it shooting the top row, where the shots are less precise. It can be difficult to rule out that your shooting might have gotten better as you fired more shots and got yourself "dialed in". There are at least a couple ways around this, either of which which you may have actually done in this test. The first would be to fire another target prior to the test target to be sure you're fully warmed up and dialed in with your shooting. The second would be to start the top row with what you believe is the best torque setting, then work your way down to the least precise setting.

Regardless, I have seen quite a few reports from Savage shooters suggesting this type of action screw torque setting can make a noticeable difference in precision. Too many, in fact, not to believe there is something to it. Your results mirror those of previous test I have seen posted, so it looks like you now know where to set the action torque of your rifle for the best performance. Thanks for sharing.
I have a Savage M-12 LRP, when they first came out ~10 years ago a lot of people had trouble with accuracy following tried methods, myself as well. Tried torque tuning, front screw 50 in/lbs, middle 30 in/lb and tang 10 in/lbs. The last 10 shot group went 0.6 moa/10 shots before rebarreled from 260 Rem to 6 Dasher.
 
A friend of mine, a very good precision gunsmith and shooter, suggested that torque tuning was likely to be effective if the bedding was flawed in some way. His feeling was, unless the torque was distorting the receiver, variations would make no difference. If the mating of stock and receiver was perfect, There would be no distortion or movement. Nonetheless, if it works with an individual rifle, it works; regardless of the reason. WH
 
A friend of mine, a very good precision gunsmith and shooter, suggested that torque tuning was likely to be effective if the bedding was flawed in some way. His feeling was, unless the torque was distorting the receiver, variations would make no difference. If the mating of stock and receiver was perfect, There would be no distortion or movement. Nonetheless, if it works with an individual rifle, it works; regardless of the reason. WH

This is my thought, but I try to be open minded. It seems that by by torque tuning you are just introducing stress that a good bedding job sought to remove.
 
I do this on everything from .308 to .22lr and I do it because it's easy and it works... The absolute biggest gain I have ever seen was a Ruger American Rimfire in .22lr it shrank the group by a HUGE amount and I have the pictures to prove it , after that I do it on everything.. Same day , same ammo same everything but torque settings... 35-30-25 in-lbs...5 shot groups with CCI standered velocity at 50 yards bullseye is half inch...wrench was just a normal fat wrench...
 

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This is my thought, but I try to be open minded. It seems that by by torque tuning you are just introducing stress that a good bedding job sought to remove.
Often, on shooting forums, the discussions devolve from experience to supposition. When I am spending some time helping others upgrade their shooting and loading skills, it is fairly common to run into "well, you would think that...." a lot. The other thing that I get is people taking stuff off of the internet that someone thinks, but has not tested. If I am telling someone a better way to do something, I have actually done it, with success, several times. If someone does something and it works and he puts up targets, I tend to believe that it would be worth actually testing.
 

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