To pin or weld?

[Kaiser]

I'm building a switch barrel Remington 700 action and was wondering what the best method is. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Gary

 

[SF340Driver]

I assume your are referring to the recoil lug.

If so, I would pin it. Don't introduce heat to that area of the receiver if you don't have to.

 

[Kaiser]

Yes. I was referring to the recoil lug. Gary

 

[Preacher]

No reason that any one thats a good hand at TIG welding can't do a good job of.
TIG welding it on will not have a heat problem if done right.

 

[JamesMock]

Neither. I just asked my gunsmith,Jerry Simison) the same question. He told me to get a Kleinendorst tool from Brownell's,about $26) and use it. He said that pins are easily broken since they have to be such a small diameter. Good shooting...James Mock

 

[tightneck]

I'm with James on this one, I've had several pins break on me, not that they can't be replaced but I like the lug indexing tools as well.

 

[Bobs243Ackley]

I had my 700 Tig welded. My gunsmith, Dave Schwarze, said that there would be no heat problems, and I would never have to worry about pins breaking. Made sense to me and glad I did.

Cordially,
Bob Blaine

 

[Kaiser]

The Kleinendorst looks like the way to go. Would a guy with two left thumbs be able to use it? Gary

 

[Preacher]

Even if you had 8 thumbs you could use it.
It just bolts to the receiver and holds the lug in place when the barrel is tightened.

 

[JDJones]

I have an CM rem short action here that I plan to weld the lug to, the lug is gonna be a .500" think unit like the Holland but it will have a slight taper from the top to bottom on the front side to alow it to come loose from the bedding.
I plan to use the Badger lug aliginment tool to get the lug strait and I have made a heat sink that threads into the action to hold the bolt in place. I plan to make my bevel about 50% of the action wall thickness, I'm gonna make the weld with two passes letting it cool fully between welds. I have doe this a few time on some made up pieces to see just how hot the lug area will get average readings are in the 275-300 deg range.
I'm going to do this as the first step. I'm practicing on some parts to see if I could weld on a Badger piccatinny rail also.
All weldiong is going to be done before the action is blue printed. I'm going to be using a PTG oversized bolt to fit in the raceways that will be reamed back strait incase their is any action movement. The action will then be cut back strait and the barrel threads will be single point recut .015" over to make strait and hopefully thread the new 1/2" extension on the action making for a longer thread tennon.

I'm basicaly trying to make a Surgen type action on a budget.

 

[Preacher]

The only problem with using the jigs to hold the recoil lug in place while tightening the barrel is there is to much clearance involved in the process.
Unless you shim the jig for a tight fit your just guessing where it will be the next time you do it and that's not very precise is it ?
If your a non believer just see for yourself how much the lug moves in the jig before the barrel gets tight.
If the lug is not dead centered after it's been glassed in how can it be pulled out without a lot of effort ?
I'll center and TIG weld all mine on thank you.....