Tips on expanding .220 Russian up to 6mm

[BoydAllen]

There are three or four main issues. The first thing that I do is to chamfer the case mouth with an old Lyman VLD tool, until I can feel the cut get smooth. The next issue is Lube, I suggest that you experiment, but my latest experiment was with Hornady Unique applied liberally to the inside of the neck with a hard wooden handled Q tip. It worked just fine. The next issue is the expanding mandrel and die. The die (PMA Tool, I believe) Has a set screw coming in from the top that pins the mandrel rigidly within the die, and I finger tight the die's lock ring to prevent movement or wobble. The mandrel is a specialty item from PMA Tool that is designed specifically for necking up to 6mm. It has a long taper. The next part is key. Without it your expanded brass will not be as straight as it can be. (which is my goal) I start the case onto the mandrel, working slowly, taking note of the resistance on the press handle. As soon I I feel a slight increase, I reverse the handle slightly, just enough to take the pressure off of the case, and then go again. By doing this repeatedly until the neck is fully expanded, the case will stay straighter than I have ever been able to manage with a single slow stroke, or using multiple conventional mandrels. Please feel free to comment and share what has worked for you.

 

[WayneShaw]

I prefer to fireform them. Try a 220 Russian in your chamber, the bolt may close, but usually they won't. Back up your sizing die a quarter turn, then run a Russian case in and see if the bolt will close on it. Ideally, a slight feel closing the bolt. Keep turning the die down until you get that feel. Prime the case, fill it with your least favorite PPC powder to the bottom of the neck and stuff a piece of paper towel in the neck to hold the powder in. Fire it, it will be loud! The case will be formed to your chamber and straight.

 

[butchlambert]

I do the same as Wayne only using Bullseye and a Playdough plug. A very straight case with little to expand.

 

[wildcatter]

I prefer to use the same method as Wayne, but I don't use the same powder method. I prefer to use Bullseye powder, only takes about 5 grains, and fill the rest of the case with corn cob media. I then seal it off with wax. Anything will work from bees wax to paraffin or even bar soap. I to see much straighter case results, than sizing up with dies and mandrels, Then go straight to the expanding mandrel after brushing the inside of the necks, and turn to my normal neck thickness. My first firings are match ready after that. I have adjusted this at times, but start at 5 grains with the first case and go up to as much as 7 grains if needed to get good sharp shoulder results.

I have used Bullseye powder for forming everything from 17 Mach!V to 6mm Ackley Improved, I dont remember how much for the 17, but it's pretty easy to staer about 3 grains and go up 1/2 at a time to get the results you would loading ammo to fill the shoulders sharply, on the 6 Ackley I use between 13 grain and 15, the 8x57 Lapua brass took more to get those sharp shoulders.

One pound of bullseye will last forever and all I use it for is fire forming rifle brass. What can I say, Im cheap,,, and I like great results the easiest way I can get them.

 

[jackieschmidt]

I have done it both ways. I used a cheap 22 bullet instead of wadding when fireforming them before neck turning.

I quit doing it. Since I single point them in my lathe on a mandrel, it is just as easy to just push the case up on the mandrel, turn it and remove it.

I honestly can not see the difference on paper.

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[wildcatter]

I have done it both ways. I used a cheap 22 bullet instead of wadding when fireforming them before neck turning.

I quit doing it. Since I single point them in my lathe on a mandrel, it is just as easy to just push the case up on the mandrel, turn it and remove it.

I honestly can not see the difference on paper.

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Your saying they shoot as good the first firing as they do after that first firing? The advantage of firing them with no bullet before I turn is no cost and as soon as I cut the brass it's ready for match use, until its fired before or after the turning, it won't even hold a match weight charge. My fireforming loads have never been as good as my full charged match loads.

 

[WayneShaw]

I started using rifle powder for two reasons. First, I have ruined some cases by using too much Bullseye. Started too low and didn't get good fill out and had to fire a second time, and in going up I ended up with too much and had loose pockets. Then the late Mickey Coleman suggested to just fill it up and cap it off and you won't over charge. I have powders in the burn range that just doesn't shoot well, and use that to fill the case.

 

[AlNyhus]

Boyd, I'd add that taking the Qtip and making sure some lube gets around the corners of the original neck/shoulder junction helps. If not, the area of the old upper shoulder will be dry after the neck is expanded and can be a reason for expanded necks getting wonky for runout. It's more prevalent when going from 6 to 30 but I do them all this way.