Threading increments

[GenePoole]

I like Joe, but I think he is doing a disservice to his viewers to keep promoting this technique. Just learn to do it right--just like machinists have been doing for over a century. It's not that hard.

 

[ricco1949]

I like Joe, but I think he is doing a disservice to his viewers to keep promoting this technique. Just learn to do it right--just like machinists have been doing for over a century. It's not that hard.

I think the disservice to state there is a right way between the two different techniques that both achieve successful results.

I suspect my mentor who has been a life long machinist for 60+ years learning the trade and the technique from his father, a life long machinist, would take exception to the implication they haven't done it right all those years.......

 

[holstil]

You guys are several classes ahead of me. I'm going to
remain a 70 rpm guy with an indicator and relief groove.

I can thread to a shoulder with an indicator and no relief
groove at 70 rpm but think its a risk for tool damage and
rework---at my skill level.

I set up an indicator and cut some air at 200 rpm and was not
consistent at a stopping point. Practice might improve this but
70 rpm will be the ticket for a while.

Ambition and imagination spark progress but reality must prevail
in the meanwhile.

Thank you guys for all the information.

A. Weldy

Nothing wrong with 70rpm. I don't care for grooves or shoulder crashing. 70 rpm with hss works for me. I use a "get ready" and "too late" sharpe mark on the way for internal threads preferring to just watch the tool close on the shoulder for external threads.
I like the compound at 29.5 and 5 or 6 passes for pretty barrel threads, for gross operations, big chunks with cross slide.
I like carbide at 400- 600 when ever I can. My learning experience is like fishing, keep trying till I find something that works,,,, or works better.

 

[spitfire_er]

I thread around 200 rpm to the shoulder with no groove. I also use the compound to advance at 29.5. Heavy to lighter cuts as you get close.

If a guy wants to do that without a groove, and don't feel comfortable dis-engaging and backing out in time, it can be done like this.

Run your machine till you get close to the shoulder, shut it down and let it coast to a stop while everything is still engaged. The chuck can be spun by hand or with a key/wrench until your thread just about hits the shoulder. Not how I do it, but I was shown that when threading square threaded barrels once upon a time.