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Threading and chambering a barrel. (Updated)

JamesnTN said:
So I guess it's goes to show all that fancy tooling and high dollar lathes aren't really needed to chamber barrels for competition.

Awesome! Now I can shop at the ACE Hardware gunsmithing aisle! ;D
 
shortgrass said:
I think I'll just continue to use my "high dollar" lathe even though I have the means to try it vertically.

I don't have access to a lathe but I do a radial drill and a jig boring machine. So I have to use what I have at my disposal. I'm just trying say for those who don't have the resources yet have access to precision vertical machines it can be done.
 
I've worked around and set-up & operated a jig boring machine. A Pratt & Whitney 2B. The head would raise far enough you could probably put a 36" barrel under it vertically. The head, other wise, was fixed. It didn't swivel or tilt. The table was 60" long by 24" wide. Ridgid? VERY! I could drill 3"" holes through steel that was 8" thick. Precision locating. Had .0005" indicator built in. Great machine with loads of HP that did a great job at what it was designed for. Your Black & Decker drill motor wasn't designed to chamber barrels with, either. I'd bet you could make it work. But I'd also bet that it would not work well.
 
And the HG winning aggregate was shot with a reconditioned SEB rest that didn't meet JamesnTN standards!
 
DJSBRS said:
And the HG winning aggregate was shot with a reconditioned SEB rest that didn't meet JamesnTN standards!

Not sure if you thought I was shooting a seb rest but I wasn't. I used my old hart 1000 yard rest in LG and HG class. I got rid of the seb a few months back.
 
Don't you know if you aren't doing it everyone else's way your doing it wrong? You should know better than to post something like this, as the reply's you got are exactly what you should expect. Obviously you know its not the "right way" but you used what you had and seems like it worked out well for you. Nice to see some one trying to do something on their own.
 
zfastmalibu said:
Don't you know if you aren't doing it everyone else's way your doing it wrong? You should know better than to post something like this, as the reply's you got are exactly what you should expect. Obviously you know its not the "right way" but you used what you had and seems like it worked out well for you. Nice to see some one trying to do something on their own.

What he said.
 
Shortgrass, did the Pratt & Whitney's have measuring rods with indicators? I used to love it when guy's would bitch about Pratt &Whitney's because you could see the oil squeeze out between the table and ways with good indicators on the rods. You would move the table .00005" or .0001" to get back in position.
 
Necessity is the mother of all invention. I own a lathe but no pratt and whitney which is way more accurate than any lathe. I think you did good and keep up the good work. The other fellas can watch Vipers way of doing it and they will disagree because of the way they were taught. If the lathe works like it has for many decades ,great, if you don't have one a jig borer can hold exceptional tolerance as it will be the most accurate machine in any machine shop. We don't need to tear other peoples ways apart but we should embrace it and learn from them.
 
wapiti25 said:
Shortgrass, did the Pratt & Whitney's have measuring rods with indicators? I used to love it when guy's would bitch about Pratt & Whitney's because you could see the oil squeeze out between the table and ways with good indicators on the rods. You would move the table .00005" or .0001" to get back in position.
Yes, it did. Even though the machine was technically obsolete (WW2 vintage), it was all there, hadn't been cannibalized. All worked as Pratt & Whitney intended. Even with its age (and that was 15+ years ago) it was a 'tight' machine, there wasn't any slack in the lead screws. They just don't build 'um like that, anymore. The Cincinnati Hydro-Tels' were another 'beast'. I haven't heard of or seen one in probably 25yrs. And the P&W was 3B,,,,, not a 2......
 

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