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thread locker

Do youns use it on firearms?
How and where do you prep and apply?

I removed sights that showed signs of locker and half the screws were not tight.
Maybe too much used.

Tempted to use grease.
 
Loctite 222 for me. It’s for small screws, Doesn’t come loose on its own but easier to get apart than the blue 242. I clean with an electronic spray cleaner so all oil residue is removed. Loctite is anaerobic cure so anywhere in a tight closed space like threads with no air space it should cure. If yours was loose I’d bet it wasn’t cleaned properly.
 
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Pretty sure Locktite has a finite shelf-life. Perhaps it never set-up. I had some old stuff from work that was some 20 years old it appeared to have separated as it's consistency was not like newer samples so I never used it.
 
I have some blue I'll probably use on the little scope base screws.
Never thought of antisleeze.
I get that stuff all over every time I open it.
Usually find answers here by using search.
Not this time so thanks.
(I spelled it wrong dah)
 
Clear finger nail polish works real good, just don't let anyone see YOU buying it. It MAY change their prospective of you. :oops:
But then again, what ever blows you skirt up. ;)

I buy the cheap stuff in colors to do the flutes on my bolt bodies.
Don't like the colors or the finish? Choke and Carb cleaner will remove it in nothing flat. Kinda like changing your shorts. :cool:
 
Pretty sure Locktite has a finite shelf-life. Perhaps it never set-up. I had some old stuff from work that was some 20 years old it appeared to have separated as it's consistency was not like newer samples so I never used it.
YES! it has a "freshness date" on every container, only buy the smallest you can, like others have said "clean well" denatured alcohol everyone should have a can around the house. Car painters live by it.
 
I’ve never had any Loctite go bad even after many years on the shelf. I get to see repeat assemblies for service so I’d see it if it did. Loctite Black Max will go even when stored in the fridge but it’s a cyanoacrylate adhesive not a thread locker.
 
Two of the blind hole threads were gobbed with red.
They were the loose ones.

Another ??
Warne vertical split rings with
4 horizontal screws each.
Is the torque sequence all evenly or bottom ones first?

I miss the days of longer scopes and millet rings.
 
Two of the blind hole threads were gobbed with red.
They were the loose ones.

Another ??
Warne vertical split rings with
4 horizontal screws each.
Is the torque sequence all evenly or bottom ones first?

I miss the days of longer scopes and millet rings.
Using too much is a common problem and defiantly affects curing. This often happens when people slobber it on fine threads like they would for course..
 
I don't use locktite on my guns but I do use VIBRATITE. On all scope rings and mounts. Works different and have never had anything come loose.
 
Been using Green Loctite for the small screws like ring screws, small machine screws like 4mm and etc. Seems to work fine so far, and is supposed to be one step below blue, and I can get it apart easier if I need to.
 
Been using Green Loctite for the small screws like ring screws, small machine screws like 4mm and etc. Seems to work fine so far, and is supposed to be one step below blue, and I can get it apart easier if I need to.
I also use green (part number 290). One plus for the green is that it is a wicking loctite, so you can add to assembled threads. Threads must be clean prior. A benefit of this method is that you can get accurate torque readings without the loctite, and then wick some loctite in after assembly.
 
I have some blue I'll probably use on the little scope base screws.
Never thought of antisleeze.
I get that stuff all over every time I open it.
Usually find answers here by using search.
Not this time so thanks.
(I spelled it wrong dah)
I’d like to you are so correct with antiseize in so much of you use it in your shop, the day ends, you wash up and drive home. You open the fridge to have a beer. Before you touch the can there’s that anti seize on the can! Or under you pillow.
However using the right type it’s invaluable.
It is not for securing fasteners. Actually the exact opposite.
I’ve used red Loctite for half a century. Nothing to fear because nothing is permanent. Want to loosen it? 30 seconds with a heat gun and it’s back to a liquid.
Now on Savage actions that picatinny rail hole closest to the muzzle is a ‘thru’ hole. I won’t use it there as it can weep down on the barrel threads. The non weeping loctite makes life easier on that one. ( I always use anti seize on my barrel threads which are all Savage actions)
I always use a torque wrench and I always consult the torque reduction table for the % of reduction that’s appropriate. ( can be as high as 50+%.)
All of the above is what I do on MY rifles. And since I am writing it, it’s MY opinion.
 
Two of the blind hole threads were gobbed with red.
They were the loose ones.

Another ??
Warne vertical split rings with
4 horizontal screws each.
Is the torque sequence all evenly or bottom ones first?

I miss the days of longer scopes and millet rings.
Not degreasing and using too much are definitely problems even by themselves.

Warne vertical rings are REALLY bad about coming loose. I’ve had a couple of sets.

Torque the bottoms to spec (I think 30) then the tops to whatever your scope can handle safely.
 
Actually getting whatever product you choose down in the female threads seems to work best. Some of that stuff will roll right up to the top of the screws if you don’t.
 

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