• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Thoughts on recoil lug.

Hi.

Im currently making my own bread of tactical stock for my 300wm remington 700. It's all built from 7075 aluminum. Will post photos when done making. The Q's that woke up where when I was drawing the slot for the recoil lug. Does it have to be a slot that the lug fits into or can I make my own recoil lug, have it longer and put a bolt trough it into the stock? If not the why not?

Thanks for your time.

Atli S
 
The recoil lug will need to set into a space with a skin tight fit...
No problem making one if you have the correct tools..
Never seen a recoil lug with a threaded hole on the bottom.
I'm sure there is a reason for that, but no clue why..
 
Not sure if I described this well so here are 2 photors that show it better, One is the orginal way to do it. The other is the way that I was thinking of. Is it wrong in any way, if so the why?

hope for some good results

best reg
Atli S
 

Attachments

  • demo.JPG
    demo.JPG
    18.1 KB · Views: 135
  • demo2.JPG
    demo2.JPG
    38.2 KB · Views: 158
Preacher said:
The recoil lug will need to set into a space with a skin tight fit...
No problem making one if you have the correct tools..
Never seen a recoil lug with a threaded hole on the bottom.
I'm sure there is a reason for that, but no clue why..
[br]
Why does it need to be a tight fit? [br]
Without taking mine apart, don't Springfield 1903 actions have a tapped hole in the integral lug?
 
The traditional recoil lug is wide so that the force of the recoil is spread over a larger area. Your bolt appears to have all the force of the recoil focused on the width of the bolt and not spread across the stock. With a strong enough bolt and a strong stock, having all the recoil focused in a small area may work but, I believe it is less likely to be a point of failure if the force is spread out a bit.

I have seen a recoil lug that was very thick and tapped on the bottom for the front action bolt. I think it was in a Kimber 84 in .223 Remington. That system seemed to work ok.

Cort
 
Why not borrow a lesson from the Ruger MKII and have a diagonal bolt up from underneath and behind the lug that pulls the lug/action back and down into the bedding of the bedding block.
 
Doesn't the Howa/Vangard have the front action screw in the actions intergral recoil lug?
 
Preacher said:
( Why does it need to be a tight fit? )
Why would he want it to flop around ??
[br]
My rifles with bedding blocks or applied bedding all have clearance around the sides and front of the lug and the actions don't flop around. The bedding block rifles have a lot of clearance.
 
Are you still planning on using the two action screws in addition to your lug bolt?

Would the asthetics be horrible if you built the standard version shown in your cad image with a clearance hole for a lug screw head? If it didn't work well you could just omit the lug screw.
 
No one does serious competition work with a Howa or Ruger. The angled front screw is the work of trolls, and having your front screw at the very front of the action is not the best idea. Neither lend themselves to pillars. As far as your second illustration goes, I think that depending on how it was executed, that it might have some merit. If you are looking for interesting ideas relating to theory of bedding and what a Remington lug does, get a hold of a copy of Rifle Accuracy Facts by Harold Vaughn.
 
Hi, yes Im going to keep the two screw that pull the action down will still be used. I just made the first photo to show what i was thinking off. The Second photo is how it is now and I would just elemenate the slot for the lug and let it rest on the front and put that extra 3 bolt into it to push the action back.

This is just an idea that came up while I was drawing it up. Just wanted to follow through and see where it would take me.

Thanks for all your input.

BoydAllen, thanks for that book input. Will be looking into that.
 
Read it slowly, about three times (not a comment on you, but the information density). I had the pleasure of visiting with the author several times, by phone. Unfortunately, that is no longer possible. I think that you will find it interesting.
 
Im sure i will, and will keep in mind not to rush through it ether. Always looking for way's to learn something new and way's to enjoy our hobby more.

This is the store that has it. Just got an email telling me that it will ship tomorrow, asked about it they have more in stock if anyone else is looking. But they are all used though. Doesn't bother me just gives the character.
http://www.fishingbooksandvideos.com/
 
Here's another source for you. ABE Books is a clearinghouse for independent bookstores in the U.S., Canada and U.K. They are now owned by Amazon but I've done business with them for about fifteen years. Often, one of their associate booksellers has an item that cannot be found elsewhere. [br]
http://www.abebooks.com/
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,280
Messages
2,214,943
Members
79,496
Latest member
Bie
Back
Top