DirtySteve
Gold $$ Contributor
I decided to give a digital scale a try and ordered a E&J123 scale. What is everyones opinion of them. I had a Lyman that I used a couple times but seemed to drift way to much to instill any confidence.
Thoughts On EJ-123 Scale
- Thread starter DirtySteve
- Start date
Cloudrepair
Silver $$ Contributor
I like mine it takes some getting used to but I think it's great for the most part
You learn what affects it like wind, vibration ,electrical waves.
If you have things like that under control you can get good results.
But good results always depend on the reloaders' consistency.
Do everything the same way with every load, and you should get great results. Of course, you will always restart your load workup with a new scale/balance.
And I would calibrate it regularly with the right sujestested weight.
70% of the capacity. EJ 123 would be 100 g
I got a calibration weight with a f1 clase for mine although it would be nice to move up to at least a E 2 clase for accuracy.
I know my spelling is no good.
You learn what affects it like wind, vibration ,electrical waves.
If you have things like that under control you can get good results.
But good results always depend on the reloaders' consistency.
Do everything the same way with every load, and you should get great results. Of course, you will always restart your load workup with a new scale/balance.
And I would calibrate it regularly with the right sujestested weight.
70% of the capacity. EJ 123 would be 100 g
I got a calibration weight with a f1 clase for mine although it would be nice to move up to at least a E 2 clase for accuracy.
I know my spelling is no good.
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A&D EJ 123 scale?
Has anyone used or have experiance with the A&D ej 123 reloading scale? I just can't afford the FX120 anytime soon and really could use an upgrade. Is it worth it or should I just suffer on for another 6 months until I can afford to properly upgrade?
forum.accurateshooter.com
nmkid
Gold $$ Contributor
I used the EJ 123 for almost a year and never had any problems with it. I used that scale during the time I owned some of the best shooting rifles I ever had. I had my plugged into a Tripp-Lite Surge Protector from Amazon. I think they are about half the cost of an FX 120, so why don't you wait? LOL. Easy for me to say!
Not knocking your choice of surge protection but MOST don't clean the incoming power.
Large fast spikes are shorted out, usually rated in JOULES.
Voltage swings, brownouts, RF noise floating on the house wiring requires a "conditioner" or UPS.
Still a good thing to have though.
en.wikipedia.org
Large fast spikes are shorted out, usually rated in JOULES.
Voltage swings, brownouts, RF noise floating on the house wiring requires a "conditioner" or UPS.
Still a good thing to have though.
Surge protector - Wikipedia
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Cloudrepair
Silver $$ Contributor
That's something I forgot to say. It is a good idea to use a line conditioner.
I have one mine is plugged into can't remember the name of it right now it was maybe 30. bucks because I didn't have more money to use at the time or I might have gone with something higher grade. It seems to be working ok does get kinda hot I think I may set it up with some kind of fan just outside of my little loading room.
I have one mine is plugged into can't remember the name of it right now it was maybe 30. bucks because I didn't have more money to use at the time or I might have gone with something higher grade. It seems to be working ok does get kinda hot I think I may set it up with some kind of fan just outside of my little loading room.
kinda hot?
Please post a pic of unit and or model info.
Please post a pic of unit and or model info.
DirtySteve
Gold $$ Contributor
Not really sure I will like going digital. Plus it is touted to be as accurate as I will need.
I make my own power not sure if I would need a surge protector. I run completely on solar.
Steve
Cloudrepair
Silver $$ Contributor
Attachments
That's a pretty good power conditioner (and surge protector).
Hope the kinda hot is really kinda warm.
I would measure temperature and contact manufacturer.
Hope the kinda hot is really kinda warm.
I would measure temperature and contact manufacturer.
Cloudrepair
Silver $$ Contributor
Ok thanks
I figured it is because my house is manufactured home on a complete basement foundation and it is wired funny.
I guess they wire them in two complete sets and the connection them on site.?
It probably Is just a little warm I just wasn't expecting it to get warm so I may be exaggerating.
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I’m doubt you’ll need a surge protector. I think you’ll like the convince of a E scale,
Krogen
Gold $$ Contributor
Rocketvapor nailed it. My background is aircraft electrical power. We see significant spikes, conducted disruptions and radiated electromagnetic fields. Airplanes are a nasty environment and equipment has to be hardened against severe threats. The worst are HIRF (High Intensity Radiated FIeld) and EMP (Electromagnetic Pulse). EMP is tricky since the threat levels are classified. Tough to design against something you can't quantify. Fortunately, most of these threats aren't present in a home. Good thing, because the electronics we have at home aren't hardened against those threats.Not knocking your choice of surge protection but MOST don't clean the incoming power.
Large fast spikes are shorted out, usually rated in JOULES.
Voltage swings, brownouts, RF noise floating on the house wiring requires a "conditioner" or UPS.
Still a good thing to have though.
Surge protector - Wikipedia
Surge suppressors may protect you against a lightning strike on ac power lines. Typically they contain a cheap MOV (metal oxide varistor). MOVs are sloppy protectors that clamp voltage spikes; possibly not well enough to protect your equipment. Note that they are supposed to protect, not stabilize.
To stabilize, you need something that approximates a battery. Smooth dc voltage and minimal electric and magnetic fields. A good power conditioner can do that. Then figure out if your environment is clean enough. It's easy to figure out if your lights, cell phone, audio speakers, laptop or whatever is affecting something else. Just separate them or turn off the suspected device and look for the effects. There are lots of "old wives tales" about interfering equipment. Most often it's from folks who repeat anecdotes. It can happen, though. By way of example, when I bought a Creedmoor scale I put it next to my Chargemaster Lite for comparison. They did not agree with each other and were inconsistent to boot. I was looking for a cross-check and unpleasantly surprised. By separating them by a foot or so, the issue went away. Just like arguing children - move them out of earshot of each other.
Surge suppressors can be useful, but they're not a panacea. Be sure they're UL or ETL listed. You might have radiated or conducted interference in your house; probably not. I suggest some simple tests to figure out if you have gremlins or not. Don't just buy a surge suppressor and expect results.
Just my 20 m$ from a career of this stuff . . . .
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