Things that can drive you batty...

[XTR]

I'm still trying to get my Savage 223 F-TR rig to shoot. Some of you may have followed this insanity. Its coming together, I think, but I've thought that before.

Shot it in one match of a 3x 600 last weekend and it shot a 194. It should have been better, but it wasn't awful right?. Been fiddling with loads this week trying to tighten it up.

First, was switching between rifles I was testing, reached up and grabbed the front of the scope to adjust parallax, except this is my NXS and not my BR, but the scope moved! WTF! (have to understand, this is the rifle I tested for 2 months with the action screws not torqued) I torque everything, but the rail was lose! )#&#$^$

Now some of the wonky groups make sense.

So I torque. I was working on load for the 75 Amax because I only have one box of 80s left and they are not making any more 80.... yea, except tonight I found a 600ct box of 80s over in the 45 cal section of my bullet shelf. Grrr.... This gun is possessed, 812 down the tube and I might actually have some loads. Really printing tight groups at 300 today, esp after I tightened the rail!

The good part is that I found a great node for the 75s, the bad part is that if the 80s shoot I'll never use them in this rifle (I'll shoot them up in my service rifle)

This game can drive one nuts (I already drink so I can't blame that on shooting)

 

[jonbearman]

I have been through this before with simple mistakes that put a rifle out of tune.I struggled with a benchgun only to find out the no turn neck was too tight so I had to turn all the brass,It drove me crazy for a couple sessions till I got suspicious of it.I am glad you got it worked out,we all feel better then and we all learn that way.

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

I'm still trying to get my Savage 223 F-TR rig to shoot. Some of you may have followed this insanity. Its coming together, I think, but I've thought that before.

Shot it in one match of a 3x 600 last weekend and it shot a 194. It should have been better, but it wasn't awful right?. Been fiddling with loads this week trying to tighten it up.

First, was switching between rifles I was testing, reached up and grabbed the front of the scope to adjust parallax, except this is my NXS and not my BR, but the scope moved! WTF! (have to understand, this is the rifle I tested for 2 months with the action screws not torqued) I torque everything, but the rail was lose! )#&#$^$

Now some of the wonky groups make sense.

So I torque. I was working on load for the 75 Amax because I only have one box of 80s left and they are not making any more 80.... yea, except tonight I found a 600ct box of 80s over in the 45 cal section of my bullet shelf. Grrr.... This gun is possessed, 812 down the tube and I might actually have some loads. Really printing tight groups at 300 today, esp after I tightened the rail!

The good part is that I found a great node for the 75s, the bad part is that if the 80s shoot I'll never use them in this rifle (I'll shoot them up in my service rifle)

This game can drive one nuts (I already drink so I can't blame that on shooting)

I'm sure age doesn't have anything to do with it either. I mean, like a fine wine, one's memory only improves with age, right?

I'm sure age doesn't have anything to do with it either.

Yeah, my Wheeler engineering FAT torque screwdriver lives in my range bag now. Ever since that incident at Raton 2 years ago when my scope came off the rail during a match. I check torque on things every time I clean. 25 inch/pounds on the scope screws, 35 on the scope mount screws and 2,500 on the action screws. (Ok, 60.)

 

[jlow]

Got to Loctite those screws... Both the mount and rail as they will come loose again even if they are torqued properly. Use the blue stuff

 

[Down South]

Another reason to buy a action with integral rail and lug when purchasing a custom action......Less crap to worry about, id like to know how many matches were screwed up for guys because of loose rails, i'd bet plenty.

 

[7stubby]

I use blue loctite on my rail screws plus a wrap or two of good ol' duck tape! I dont want to be too fancy when I'm on the line. ;D

 

[amlevin]

Another reason to buy a action with integral rail and lug when purchasing a custom action.....

Either that or "bed" the rail to the action without using any parting agent. Degrease both action surface and under part of rail, apply devcon or J-B Weld, and wrap tightly with surgical tubing. Just wax the screws so if you ever want to remove the rail you can get them out. Then just heat the rail and smack it with a cowhide mallet. Won't move until you want it to if bonded with epoxy.

 

[Grimstod]

Another reason to buy a action with integral rail and lug when purchasing a custom action......Less crap to worry about, id like to know how many matches were screwed up for guys because of loose rails, i'd bet plenty.

Why they even make custom actions that are tapped for a pic rail is beyond me.

I agree with you, a pic rail built right into the receiver is best. Its the beauty of KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. ;D

 

[M-61]

Yes to the Loctite. However the forward rail hole (Savage) is drilled through to the barrel. Loctite can run and coat the barrel threads. If you wish to remove your barrel it makes it harder. Purple Loctite is non wicking and that problem is solved.

 

[Big Mc]

Where can I get one of them 2,500 in lbs wrenches ? Screws should never come loose . Tommy Mc..

 

[XTR]

Another reason to buy a action with integral rail and lug when purchasing a custom action......Less crap to worry about, id like to know how many matches were screwed up for guys because of loose rails, i'd bet plenty.

Why they even make custom actions that are tapped for a pic rail is beyond me.

Who ever said this was a custom action? (My Defiance has a pinned aluminum 30MOA rail, for 1000 yard shooting it's great, keeps my scope further off of the top stop, but I can't get a 100 yard zero, not that I ever shoot at 100, but if I ever changed the setup on the rifle I have the option to change to a 10 or a 20 MOA rail) Because I can get an aluminum rail for a target rifle that shaves ounces off of the weight of the rifle. Because one day you may want to shoot beyond 1000 and may need a 40MOA rail.

I've got experience with that forward scope mount screw on a Savage, I buggered the threads on the barrel that came on this rifle because the previous owner had it functioning as a set screw when I got it.

 

[M-61]

QUOTE from XTR;
"I've got experience with that forward scope mount screw on a Savage, I buggered the threads on the barrel that came on this rifle because the previous owner had it functioning as a set screw when I got it. "


The last couple of rails I bought from EGW ( for Savage) had one screw slightly shorter for the front hole. However I still measure to be sure there is clearance. Even the short screw is VERY close to the barrel threads.

 

[Tempest]

3 x 600 last weekend, was that at AEDC by any chance?

One of the guys from my local club also shoots at AEDC using a .223 F/TR.

I know he's had really good luck w/ the Berger 90 VLD's.

 

[MrMajestic]

Women and Politicians! Oh you're talking firearms... :-[

 

[wwbrown]

I use Red Loctite for Pic rails I never take them off and if I ever need to some heat will help a great deal. Think about it if you needed the rail off to do some operation (except for coating) the integral rails would be a real problem. Make sure the front screw is short enough to not hit the barrel and you will never need to take it off.

 

[Hohn]

Why they even make custom actions that are tapped for a pic rail is beyond me.

I agree with you, a pic rail built right into the receiver is best. Its the beauty of KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. ;D

It's kind of hard to change the incline from 20MOA to 30MOA if it's machined in at a given angle...

 

[Ned Ludd]

The most well-tuned load on the planet is useless if you have loose rings, a loose scope rail, loose or improperly tightened action screws, a loose bipod rail, etc. See how the term "loose" keeps cropping up? In fairness, that is not a load development problem, it simply means you should fire your equipment manager. What's that??? YOU'RE the equipment manager? Well, that could be problematic.

It takes only seconds to a few minutes of routine maintenance to properly tighten, or at least check pretty much anything that requires tightening. Putting it off can mean a lot of wasted time and effort.

 

[rardoin]

Hopefully Wade has this sorted out by now.

 

[XTR]

Hopefully Wade has this sorted out by now.

The rifle in question has been in the safe with one exception* since about the time I wrote that first post. A few months later I got a barrel chambered for my Remington with my reamer and things came together.

*I pulled it out and thoated that barrel to play with a few of the 95s I was given.

 

[Rsadams]

Yes to the Loctite. However the forward rail hole (Savage) is drilled through to the barrel. Loctite can run and coat the barrel threads. If you wish to remove your barrel it makes it harder. Purple Loctite is non wicking and that problem is solved.

+1 on the purple...I have to order it but for scope screws etc it is the way to go.... Never had a screw back out but it can be removed without heating.... It's the only stuff I use anymore exept when blue is needed and that's definitely not on scope rings or bases or action screws....