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The Reloaders Ten Commandments

1. Never keep any powder on the reloading table that you are not using during the current reloading session and return unused powder to the original container when finished with that session.

2. Check each case that has been charged with powder to verify that it has been charged or in the case of pistol reloads using fast burning powders where a double charge can easily fit in the case - check each case to verify that there is no double charge.

3. Don't rush the reloading process or attempt it when you are tired or distracted.

4. Regularly inspect cases that have been repeatedly reloaded to verify that they are free of defects.

5. Check primer seating to verify that the primer is seated slightly below the top of the primer pocket - especially important for semi- autos.

6. Watch for pressure signs and at the first sign STOP and determine the cause.

7. Follow published data starting low and working up.

8. Keep precise records (data) on the reloaded cartridges, i.e. powder type / amount / lot number, primer used, bullet used, COL, number of times reloaded, number of times trimmed, etc.

9. Learn how to size cases properly and avoid over sizing that might create excessive case stretch and lead to head separation.

10. Periodically check the accuracy of the powder scale with check weights sold for this purpose.
All of this.
 
Place a piece of painters tape on front or lid of powder container that say "Open"... this way don't open 2nd canister until 1st container is used up.

Place piece of painters tape on powder tube with name of powder inside. This will takes the guess work out if you have to step away while in the middle of reloading a batch.

Only keep the powder jug on bench that matches the powder inside the powder tube... helps avoid accidentally topping-off the powder tube with wrong powder.
 
Yes! I was going to say the same thing. Even with clean, tumbled brass, you'd be surprised how much crud gets stuck inside of dies. So, take them apart every now-and-then and clean them with your favorite solvent.

If you use a (manual) powder measure take that apart a couple of times a season and clean it too. For electric dispensers, use canned air to blow out the hopper and any parts you can reach. Keep scales clean too.

If you use a ram type press (RCBS, Lyman, Lee, etc.), take it apart at the start (or end) of the season, clean the parts, lightly lube them with a light machine (or gun) oil, and reassemble.

Watch the (cartridge) rim slot in your shell holders. Even a little bit of junk stuck in there will mis-align a case going into a sizing, or seating die.

Keep primer tools extra clean! Even a little bit of loose primer "dust" in one is a dangerous situation. Use canned air to blow it out regularly, and take it apart for a thorough cleaning at least once a season. No oil on primer seating stems! Use powdered graphite to lube them. Speaking of priming -> priming tools have a bad habit of flipping a primer every now and then. If one gets by you, it will fire but will damage the bolt (or slide) face of what it's fired in. Look at every case head after it's primed to make sure it's good to go. For automated loaders, always check every finished round to make sure the primer is in, right-side-up!

As PB said - keep the environment clean, i.e., dust and wipe down surface areas, sweep the floor periodically. Do not use a household vacuum cleaner.

Finally: Always watch for the unexpected. If you're humming right along (Maine-speak for "things are going smoothly" ;)), and something looks or feels fishy, stop! I was charging a batch of primed, pull-down .30-'06 brass, when all of a sudden the powder overflowed a case. Thinking I may have double-charged it, I dumped the charge and tried again with the same result. A "mud dobber" had gotten in the case and deposited a plug-of-mud about a 1/2" thick in its head! I immediately checked the rest of the cases and found several more that had been affected. Had I been using a faster powder like 3031, or 4895, it might have fit in the case okay, but been a disaster when it was fired.

Chris Mitchell

There's a list that brings back memories!
 
When using your press you have a feed hand and a lever hand.
Lever gently to line up cartridge then remove feed hand.
Feed hand goes in safe place before lever hand does the big pull.
I put my feeder hand on the next item before pulling lever.
Prevents sizing, swaging, trimming, decapping of fingers.
 
Why no vacuums? I've heard most of the other things mentioned in this thread before.
For me, it's about commiting the little parts that flew out of something to the vacuum cleaner bag.

I actually do use a shop vacuum but inspect the mats/floor first. Even so, I've heard a couple things get sucked up. One time, I was pretty sure what it was => had to dive into the dust bag.
 
Why no vacuums? I've heard most of the other things mentioned in this thread before.

It gets “interesting” when a primer gets sucked into a sweeper roller and detonates! I use a shop vac (sans roller) on the floor around my bench to avoid such “surprises”:D
 
As a relatively new loader, I've validating my thinking in some ways and lessons from others in other ways.

1) Don't buy a kit of anything. You'll end up with stuff you won't use and still have to buy things you need.
2) Invest first in measurement and process-related items as they will apply to all calibers and all rifles. This is where it's worth "buy once cry once". You'll get your money out of them in the long run.

3) If you're loading, be loading. FOCUS. No TV or radio going, no constant interruptions or distractions. Your life or limb might depend on it.
4) Don't assume--measure.
5) Don't assume your measures are accurate. Verify you can repeat your measurements. If you measure distance to the lands 10 times and the get the same result only twice, you have only an estimate actual measurement. Check your scale with another scale. Check your caliper with a gauge block. Measure with a micrometer and sanity check your caliper. Watch your scale for zero drift.

6) To the degree you can, decide on a die strategy/load process before you start buying a bunch of gear. If you are going to do separate body die and a LCD for example, don't buy a regular FL sizer first. If you want bushings FL size or bushing bump, get that. This is actually pretty challenging because you often won't necessarily develop a preference until you've spent the wrong money and realize what you were doing wasn't working.

7) if you are loading for precision for competitive purposes, don't waste time with junky brass. If you are just trying to squeeze precision on a budget, cheap stuff is OK.
 
For me, it's about commiting the little parts that flew out of something to the vacuum cleaner bag.

I actually do use a shop vacuum but inspect the mats/floor first. Even so, I've heard a couple things get sucked up. One time, I was pretty sure what it was => had to dive into the dust bag.

A variation on this:

Never, Ever, empty the trash bin in the middle of a project. make sure that all firearms are fully assembled, before emptying.

i once waited 3 months for a part from germany, because i violated this rule. i didn't know it was missing, well....until it was missing.
 
Buy once cry once.
Of course, no alcohol. Not even a lite beer before or while reloading.
A variation on this:

Never, Ever, empty the trash bin in the middle of a project. make sure that all firearms are fully assembled, before emptying.

i once waited 3 months for a part from germany, because i violated this rule. i didn't know it was missing, well....until it was missing.
What trash can?
 

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