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The new Raptor!

Shooter13

Gold $$ Contributor
Rod may not agree but I spoke with Mike @gunsandgunsmithing and i told Mike i like the adjustable lockers like the SEB uses for the stock width lockdown. (Rod uses a nut) i have included a picture of what im talking about. The last couple of years we have used my rest at the UBR Nationals for each of our 6 matches each day and i think this will just make it so much simpler to adjust for stock width. What are your thoughts?
 

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Rod may not agree but I spoke with Mike @gunsandgunsmithing and i told Mike i like the adjustable lockers like the SEB uses for the stock width lockdown. (Rod uses a nut) i have included a picture of what im talking about. The last couple of years we have used my rest at the UBR Nationals for each of our 6 matches each day and i think this will just make it so much simpler to adjust for stock width. What are your thoughts?
That rest is awesome! It's little things like that that seem like common sense things to me, that Rod and I don't agree on. Yes, he's right, a larger knob absolutely increases the chance of scratching your gun. I first made a knurled knob for one side. It worked great but yes, I could've accidentally scratched a gun on it, so I ordered those adjustable handles. One was probably sufficient but like you, I bought two.

Yes, in some games we do switch rifles or share rests with someone else and need fast and easy adjustment between guns. Simple as that. It's just a fact in our game...maybe not to some. He DID give thought to it so it's not an oversight but a conscience choice. Easy to change, either way....for better or worse. That was the reason he told me, which is hard to argue with but so far, IME, it's a non-issue. I changed it and I consider it a worthwhile upgrade. Sounds like you're open to feedback on this but I'm very happy with the small change.
Each one was what..$11 or something like that. Maybe less, especially if bought in bulk. As is works fine but requires a wrench between guns. To me, that's pretty big down side with a really easy solution.

Overall the rest is mind blowing! It's just a few little things like that that are easy and cheap changes that do put it over the top, IMHO.
 
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@Shooter13 It's tough being on the front lines of new products sometimes. Rod's rest will sell itself in time but nowhere near as many out there yet, as some of the more popular names. I'm absolutely blown away with my new Raptor. A Product like that will catch on in time and you'll get more feedback. Remember, I bet we were in the first dozen or less shipped, of that rest. I appreciate your trust in my opinion of it. It's not cheap, so you laid out some bucks based a lot on my opinion and what I had told you about mine. I have no interest in Rod or his rest other than appreciating a good product and American ingenuity.
 
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Without a doubt this is an awesome rest!! Didn't mean to sound like I was putting it down in anyway, I haven't shot of it yet but I'll see you on Thursday and I'll try yours LOL
Oh, I didn't think so at all. You really have to get one in your hands to appreciate the difference between it and even a SEB. Yes, it's daylight and dark difference....even more than that. Kinda like a muzzle brake...you don't know what 50% feels like until you feel it. Pretty good analogy, even though the percentage is even greater toward the Raptor over a brake. You just have to feel it for yourself is all. They'll sell themselves.
 
Thanks for your comments guys. I have always appreciated input from my customers as this helps me see the forest and not just the tree,so-to -speak.
I first started using large diameter steel inserted plastic top locking nuts and ran into the first problem with side clearance for some width settings. I also tested the lever or handle type and it wouldn’t let the hard case close as they stand up quite a ways. I also discovered the thumb type knobs are not always able to lock the blocks in place when using a larger caliber that generates torque as the blocks can open up. This happened to me while shooting a 300WSM in a local match.
So like most things I decided to go with the flange nuts because they work. Might not be the best for everyone but they lock your settings on those adjustable blocks every time. I’m getting quite a few rests out in the field and appreciate ideas and input. Thanks again guys
 
Thanks for your comments guys. I have always appreciated input from my customers as this helps me see the forest and not just the tree,so-to -speak.
I first started using large diameter steel inserted plastic top locking nuts and ran into the first problem with side clearance for some width settings. I also tested the lever or handle type and it wouldn’t let the hard case close as they stand up quite a ways. I also discovered the thumb type knobs are not always able to lock the blocks in place when using a larger caliber that generates torque as the blocks can open up. This happened to me while shooting a 300WSM in a local match.
So like most things I decided to go with the flange nuts because they work. Might not be the best for everyone but they lock your settings on those adjustable blocks every time. I’m getting quite a few rests out in the field and appreciate ideas and input. Thanks again guys
See, I love this, you are looking at a much broader range than we are, I never even thought of the case (for now I'm using a Carhartt tool bag), I did add a washer under the lever to help lock it in place. Rod, this is an amazing product and please don't think I'm in any way putting it down, I've owned just about all the other top competitor models and you are equal to or superior to them all. Keep up the good work.
 
Thanks for your comments guys. I have always appreciated input from my customers as this helps me see the forest and not just the tree,so-to -speak.
I first started using large diameter steel inserted plastic top locking nuts and ran into the first problem with side clearance for some width settings. I also tested the lever or handle type and it wouldn’t let the hard case close as they stand up quite a ways. I also discovered the thumb type knobs are not always able to lock the blocks in place when using a larger caliber that generates torque as the blocks can open up. This happened to me while shooting a 300WSM in a local match.
So like most things I decided to go with the flange nuts because they work. Might not be the best for everyone but they lock your settings on those adjustable blocks every time. I’m getting quite a few rests out in the field and appreciate ideas and input. Thanks again guys
The rest is awesome and I know you've put a ton of thought into every aspect, and it shows Rod. I'll be showing it off to few shooters tomorrow. Keep up the good work!
 
Is it possible to make it so the joystick does not rotate at all, but can be set to a fixed position?.....Thanks

Regards
Rick
 
Is it possible to make it so the joystick does not rotate at all, but can be set to a fixed position?.....Thanks

Regards
Rick
It is adjustable in that regard but I don't know if it could be taken that far or not. I actually like for the stick to rotate pretty easily, but with some resistance, if that make sense. I can steer it a lot with my wrist that way. Maybe Rod will reply for ya, Rick. I bet he knows. I'm thinking it would bind things up if solid but I might be wrong. I don't really think I'd want mine that way even if it's possible.
 
The less rotational input I can have into the joystick, the better I seem to like it. I like to be able to move the crosshair around the target but I just don't like the rotational input from my wrist. Not Sayin' I'm not a complete Whack Job......But I like what I like..............Thanks for your input.....:cool:

Regards
Rick
 
The less rotational input I can have into the joystick, the better I seem to like it. I like to be able to move the crosshair around the target but I just don't like the rotational input from my wrist. Not Sayin' I'm not a complete Whack Job......But I like what I like..............Thanks for your input.....:cool:

Regards
Rick
Lol! I think it can be set up firm enough to maybe do what you're after, but it is subjective. I agree that I don't want it "floppy" feeling either.
 
I don't know what the newer setups are like, but my orig. Seb Mini with the rotating top will lock up the joystick very solid. I have developed a bit of a shake in my hands ( genetic ) with age, it has me leaning toward a bit heavier trigger pull or quality 2 stage seems to do the trick as well. Getting older often times doesn't come to greacefully........;)
 
Guys, by tightening up the set screws on the spherical bearings you can stiffen up the joystick rotation considerably, if that’s what you like.

However, when this happens you also introduce more resistance to the Joystick X-Y movement. I personally like the smooth fluid placement of the crosshairs with just a bit of rotational resistance so I only tighten the spherical bearings enough to hold the joystick at any position in the bridge window. And this is the way I set my rest up when I build them.
 
Does the head on these rotate? Also will it cover a .22lr ARA target at 50yds as far as windage and elevation goes?

I like the fact that it can be easily adjusted for different rifle weights as I can only afford one rest and shoot both .22lr benchrest and VFS with a 30br.
 
Does the head on these rotate? Also will it cover a .22lr ARA target at 50yds as far as windage and elevation goes?

I like the fact that it can be easily adjusted for different rifle weights as I can only afford one rest and shoot both .22lr benchrest and VFS with a 30br.
Yes, the top rotates and is tension adjustable(how freely it rotates) As for travel, it has a ton of horizontal, roughly 8ft at 100 yards. The vertical is approximately 36"@100. Rod can probably give more precise numbers but yes, it has ample travel to cover the ARA target. Some struggle with that and a lot of people hang the target sideways but Rod's rest(Raptor) does cover it either way. I'm not sure about his original T-Rex design.
 
Does the head on these rotate? Also will it cover a .22lr ARA target at 50yds as far as windage and elevation goes?

I like the fact that it can be easily adjusted for different rifle weights as I can only afford one rest and shoot both .22lr bench rest and VFS with a 30br.
Yes, the top plate or head with the adjustable blocks rotate independently of the base plate. The top plate is supported between a Teflon plate and top trunnion with another Teflon bearing. there is no play in the top plate and therefore no need to lock it. The Joy stick allows roughly double the horizontal travel of any rest on the market. My head travels 5/8" left to right with the joystick. (measured at the head) The actual MOA of movement at the target will depend on the distance between the forearm and the rear sand bag. the shorter the distance the greater amount of crosshair travel at the target. I don't shoot rimfire but I have quite a few customers shooting them and they cover the card easily.

I am currently developing a new sand bag rail system that will fit a factory class or sporter stock while also using the felt or roller top blocks against the sides of the stock. In the past a sporter stocks wouldn't work with my top blocks as they would hit the edges on the aluminum carrier under the little sand bags. So in the past, the only option was to use the IBS top with a one piece sand bag that has a notch or groove. while that works it allows the rifle to roll around unsupported. My new system will make contact at 5 and 7 oclock on the bottom of the stocks with the sand rails and both sides at 3 and 9 with either felt or rollers. with my testing the new system controls tracking much better than anything else I have tried in the past. I will have the new little sand bag rails available on my site when ready.. A Raptor customer in PA is testing the new sand rails now. I will have this new sand rail on my site when ready to go as a direct bolt on for my customers who have the T-Rex, the Raptor, or one of my 5-Axis tops on a SEB or Farley rest.
 
I am currently developing a new sand bag rail system that will fit a factory class or sporter stock while also using the felt or roller top blocks against the sides of the stock. In the past a sporter stocks wouldn't work with my top blocks as they would hit the edges on the aluminum carrier under the little sand bags. So in the past, the only option was to use the IBS top with a one piece sand bag that has a notch or groove. while that works it allows the rifle to roll around unsupported. My new system will make contact at 5 and 7 oclock on the bottom of the stocks with the sand rails and both sides at 3 and 9 with either felt or rollers. with my testing the new system controls tracking much better than anything else I have tried in the past. I will have the new little sand bag rails available on my site when ready.. A Raptor customer in PA is testing the new sand rails now. I will have this new sand rail on my site when ready to go as a direct bolt on for my customers who have the T-Rex, the Raptor, or one of my 5-Axis tops on a SEB or Farley rest.
Rod.....PM sent
 

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