The L.E. Wilson case trimmer or the EZ Trimit II

[Campbell]

I shoot F class .308, please will you advise me on the better choice between the above-mentioned trimmers.

I will be especially interested in your reasoning for your choice.

At the moment I use the RCBS Trim Pro with the 3 way head which works OK, but I don't like the idea of the cutter mandrel being inserted into the neck (which does cause very light score marks in the inside of the neck)

I am drawn to the EZ Trimit II for 2 reasons: a) there is no mandrel contacting with the inside of the neck and, b) the trimmer indexes off the shoulder giving a consistent neck length and therefore, everything else being equal, a consistent neck tension (bullet release effort). ????

I have been advised to consider the L.E. Wilson trimmer to be used in conjunction with a hand chamfer/deburring tool. I can see that it does not rely on a mandrel interfering with the neck or with a traditional case base holder, instead it relies on a case holder that is machined to the taper of the case. However the trimmer does not index off the shoulder. The person who advised me re the Wilson said that the Trimit was more brutal in engineering terms whilst it chamfered and deburred and would compromise neck tension consistency.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[WillyTP]

How much time do you want to spend prepping your brass? How many pieces do you normally prep in a setting?

Neither use mandrels, but that’s about the only similarity they share(aside from trimming brass to length).

 

[Campbell]

How much time do you want to spend prepping your brass? How many pieces do you normally prep in a setting?

Neither use mandrels, but that’s about the only similarity they share(aside from trimming brass to length).

Many thanks for your post!

Time is not the issue, but consistency (accuracy) is. I typically prepare 22 rounds for and F Class club shoot.

I appreciate the similarity of the two, but it's the differences that may result that I am exploring.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I like the PMA

 

[Ray B]

I can't compare the two because I'm not familiar with the EZ Trimit. I am familiar with the LE Wilson. I have been very satisfied with all of the LE Wilson tools: FL sizer dies, Neck sizer dies, and various prep tools. Using them is a hand process, so it isn't for mass production, but I find that for making cases as uniform as possible from the primer pocket to the neck, I haven't found anything better. Whatever groups that I shoot, the tools are far from the weakest variable in that equation.

 

[TerryH]

The Tim It II works on the same principal as the Garaud. Has exactly the same cutter. I do like the depth adjustment better on the Trim It over the Giraud. No experience with the Wilson but I get good and repeatable results from the Trim it. Also like that there are interchangeable caliber inserts for the Trim It so you can do multiple calibers with one body.

 

[Uthink Uknow]

We use the L.E.Wilson case trimmer. It has a caliber specific pilot which I suppose you could call a mandrel. At any rate, this serves to keep the case centered on the cutter very well. I have trimmed thousands of cases many times and see no reason to even look for a better mousetrap.

 

[JimSC]

I like Wilson trimmers. I set one up for each cartridge I load for. Add in a cheap electric screwdriver and the power adapter and it makes life real simple. I prefer to do my chamfering and deburring with a hand tool for control purposes

 

[Campbell]

Many thanks for all of your posts!

My thinking (please feel free to critique) is that indexing the cutter off the shoulder is the better way to go.???

Therefore, if I wish to trim, chamfer and de-burr in one pass, then the Trimit II is the tools for the job. But is this tool the best option for precision reloading?

I am getting the impression that chamfering and de-burring is better done using a separate hand tool when reloading small batches of precision ammo. Therefore, is the PMA, used in conjunction with a hand chamfering and de-burring tool, the better combo?

 

[JimSC]

Many thanks for all of your posts!

My thinking (please feel free to critique) is that indexing the cutter off the shoulder is the better way to go.???

If I have a case and I trim off .007 it will be the same .007 of neck turned to brass shavings whether the cutter is indexing off the neck or the shoulder. No matter what you choose I recommend doing a anneal and full length resize before trimming for uniformity. Just my preference but it seems to work pretty good

 

[Martin52]

Many thanks for all of your posts!

I am getting the impression that chamfering and de-burring is better done using a separate hand tool when reloading small batches of precision ammo. Therefore, is the PMA, used in conjunction with a hand chamfering and de-burring tool, the better combo?

That's what I do. I have tried the drill mounted trimmers that index off the shoulder and gone back to my Wilson trimmer plus hand tools for chamfering the case mouth. The Lyman hand held VLD inside neck chamfer tool is good, I am using my old 45 degree tool for the outside. Slower, yes, but for me more satisfying - more accurate.

 

[Campbell]

If I have a case and I trim off .007 it will be the same .007 of neck turned to brass shavings whether the cutter is indexing off the neck or the shoulder. No matter what you choose I recommend doing a anneal and full length resize before trimming for uniformity. Just my preference but it seems to work pretty good

Many thanks for this!

Do you anneal before resizing? I have been lead that annealing should be done after resizing.

 

[TerryH]

Many thanks for this!

Do you anneal before resizing? I have been lead that annealing should be done after resizing.

Another rabbit hole but I was taught to anneal first then resize.

 

[JimSC]

Many thanks for this!

Do you anneal before resizing? I have been lead that annealing should be done after resizing.

My order is depin, wipe down, resize, wet clean, anneal, trim/chamfer but I really do not think it makes a rats patooty which order I do it in. That strikes me as another "how many angels can dance on the head of a pin" discussion

I anneal after every firing yet I am still not 100% convinced it does much of anything at all. Hopefully Bryan Litz will finish the test he started but if he does my gut feeling is that a lot of annealing machines may be gathering dust afterward, including mine

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have been lead that annealing should be done after resizing.

Annealing makes your brass conform to the die more consistently. Why would you size brass that doesnt spring back the same on every piece then anneal it? Kinda defeats the purpose and when it destresses do you think it may move around?

 

[JimSC]

Annealing makes your brass conform to the die more consistently. Why would you size brass that doesnt spring back the same on every piece then anneal it? Kinda defeats the purpose and when it destresses do you think it may move around?

the reason I size before annealing is because I have fell into the habit of always full length resizing since I did that runout test a month or so back. That means I have to lube the cases before sizing. From what I have read and observed I am also convinced that annealing should be done with as clean as neck as possible for consistency of the anneal, in other words straight from the case dryer. A few times I decided to try the clean, anneal, then size route but then had to do a second cleaning to remove the lube. I saw no observable difference and decided it was not worth the time.

I know some that do not like to FL resize cases before cleaning but this brass never hits anything dirtier than my mat and they get a wipe off before lubing

These are just my opinions and results of course, others may get different results. I am still not 100% convinced that annealing really helps at all but I still anneal, even if it is a rabbits foot.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

the reason I size before annealing is because I have fell into the habit of always full length resizing since I did that runout test a month or so back. That means I have to lube the cases before sizing. From what I have read and observed I am also convinced that annealing should be done with as clean as neck as possible for consistency of the anneal, in other words straight from the case dryer. A few times I decided to try the clean, anneal, then size route but then had to do a second cleaning to remove the lube. I saw no observable difference and decided it was not worth the time.

I know some that do not like to FL resize cases before cleaning but this brass never hits anything dirtier than my mat and they get a wipe off before lubing

These are just my opinions and results of course, others may get different results. I am still not 100% convinced that annealing really helps at all but I still anneal, even if it is a rabbits foot.

The only test is if youve measured a bunch of cases after sizing- if theyre consistent then thats all you need. Non annealed cases spring back different amounts but if all of em come out of the sizing die the same then youre golden.

 

[Campbell]

Annealing makes your brass conform to the die more consistently. Why would you size brass that doesnt spring back the same on every piece then anneal it? Kinda defeats the purpose and when it destresses do you think it may move around?

Excellent point! You have changed my case preparation regime

Many thanks.

 

[Campbell]

If I have a case and I trim off .007 it will be the same .007 of neck turned to brass shavings whether the cutter is indexing off the neck or the shoulder. No matter what you choose I recommend doing a anneal and full length resize before trimming for uniformity. Just my preference but it seems to work pretty good

Hi Jim

I have taken my time to consider what you say re the, for argument's sake, the .007 trim. My thinking is that by trimming with reference to the shoulder then, everything else being equal, one will obtain a more consistent neck tension. i.e. the force required to unseat the bullet upon firing. Please feel free to critique my thinking.

Cam

 

[LHSmith]

Hi Jim

I have taken my time to consider what you say re the, for argument's sake, the .007 trim. My thinking is that by trimming with reference to the shoulder then, everything else being equal, one will obtain a more consistent neck tension. i.e. the force required to unseat the bullet upon firing. Please feel free to critique my thinking.

Cam

If you are looking to produce cases capable of the cartridges maximum repeatable (agging) accuracy potential, then you better have them fully fireformed to produce a case base -to- shoulder length with-in a maximum of 0.002" tolerance as verified with a gizzy or Hornady Headspace Gauge or similar and verified by cycling the cases through the action (firing pin assembly and ejector removed) by bolt drop resistance. In doing this you have controlled the critical dimension which will ensure your trim length will vary by a maximum of 0.002". You will never achieve best accuracy with base- to -shoulder ( case headspace) variations -which you will find with the first couple of firings with new brass- the number of firings is dependent on how hard you push them.