tempilaq.. just asking:

[Elwood]

I have just painted the bottom half of a 7 WSM case with 750F Tempilaq and set the torch on the neck shoulder junction for over a minute, at no point did the flame touch the Tempilaq and the Tempilaq did not turn clear! The only Tempilaq that has ever turned to a clear liquid for me is the 450F-475F.

Basically I have given up on Tempilaq as a temperature indicator.

 

[KenO]

It seems there should be a better way of measuring, I'm not happy with the templaq either.

I tried a cheap Harbor Frieght non contact infra-red thermometer, good to 968F, and it doesn't seem to work on shiney stuff, like brass or chrome exhaust.

Any one know if a better one would work?

 

[dannyjbiggs]

I have just painted the bottom half of a 7 WSM case with 750F Tempilaq and set the torch on the neck shoulder junction for over a minute, at no point did the flame touch the Tempilaq and the Tempilaq did not turn clear! The only Tempilaq that has ever turned to a clear liquid for me is the 450F-475F.

Basically I have given up on Tempilaq as a temperature indicator.

You have most certainly ruined a case there, provided that your burners are correctly heat focused, or it's time for Tempilaq replacement!? ??? My batch of liquid 800 Tempilaq certainly melts for me!!

For my 7mm WSM wildcat cases, I apply 800 Tempilaq outside the case from the case mouth down past midway of the case body. Then, I apply 400 from the base of the case up to about the case shoulder. (This way, I'm confident that not too much heat is going to progress into the web area.) At a range of 5.1 to 5.2 seconds and 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the flame tip (one burner focused upper mid-neck, the other at upper shoulder) using my Bench Source produces an annealed case, with the Tempilaq consistently indicating heat melt slightly below the case shoulder, nothing further down.

Dan

 

[bow shot]

I think Elwood was just experimenting, seeing if he, as I, found that even with heat creeeeeping toward the 'laq, if would still just turn black, with no liquification.

 

[Elwood]

I think Elwood was just experimenting, seeing if he, as I, found that even with heat creeeeeping toward the 'laq, if would still just turn black, with no liquification.

I was indeed experimenting If the battery wasn't flat in my camera I would have taken some photo's.

Any cases that I cull I keep for testing times when annealing. I now use my Benchsource in a dark room and watch the inside of the neck, as soon as it shows the first sign of going a dull red then it's done.

 

[bow shot]

yup, and I see that the one (ken light's) ends up saying in the instructions(beside the tempilaq stuff), "look for the color change".

Ironic isn't it, lol!!

 

[Webster]

How do you apply a Tempil stick to a case neck when there is a torch on it? Everyone should forget about Tempil sticks and only use Tempilaq.

 

[bow shot]

we don't.

 

[bow shot]

Update:

Templi has provided replacements for my 800 'laq, and 750 and 800 'sticks: same result. the laq turns black and the sticks don't liquify...just a bit of crumble.

I just called them, and they didn't sound shocked about it. Thay are sending me MARKAL brand sticks in 750 and 800.

Very pleasant, very cheerful, very cooperative, and they assure me that I am NOT using this stuff improperly.

The 400 and 500 sticks that I have work great.

More to come, I'm sure this will be another 5-10 day wait...

 

[SWThomas]

I use the 450 and paint a ring around the case about 1/2" down from the shoulder. That way I can actually see it when it's spinning in the drill/socket. Then I apply the spinning case to the flame with it focused on the neck/shoulder area as it spins. With the torch I'm using, it takes about 10 seconds for the Tempilaq to liquify and turn clear. The neck is just barely starting to turn pink at that point and the brass looks like virgin Lapua when I'm done. This is for 308 Lapua brass.

 

[bow shot]

Aye, that seems to be the common experience. The funky behaviours seem to be associated with Tempil's high temperature products (750, 800f).

 

[bow shot]

Well I got the Markal version of the Tempilsticks (Markal Thermomelt) and put 'em to work.

They work better, in that the media softens and deposits when wiped on the hot brass, but it does not plainly leave a melted streak as the instruction demand. Rather, they leave a substance that seems to have a consistency of the new, powdery stick deodorants, which sustains on the body of the brass for a moment and then evaporates. Also, it seems to me that the target temperature printed on the sticks (750F and 800F) is not at all in sync with "actual". These deposit very close to the temps that melt my 400F and 500F stick.

I finally just give up on the 'laq and the 'stick. I don't trust 'em, sick of farting around with 'em.

I'll likely use lead dip or annealing salts dip, at least I can use a PID and thermocouple to give accurate temperature readings.