tempilaq.. just asking:

[bow shot]

Does anyone's tempilaq actually liquify?

I've been experimenting with the 800f stuff. It paints on nicely afer a loooog period of violent shaking/mixing.

However, when hitting temperature ( I assume...) it never liquifies, it just turns black. The transition from chalky/colored to black is usually quite sudden.

I've put it the case neck, to avoid the torch flame, painted a stripe about 3/4" below the neck on the case wall also out of the torch flame.

I've tried to ramp the heat up slowly, and also to bring it on fast: Same "go black" result.

I just want to know if anyone has seen the "liquify" thing happen that Tempil's instructions talk up.

Perhaps that only goes for the low temp 'laq??

 

[Tahoe Shark]

I don't use 800 F but mine turns black also. Always has.

Tim

 

[Jay Christopherson]

Turning black is how Tempilaq tells you that you've hit temp. It doesn't liquefy, AFAIK.

Perhaps that only goes for the low temp 'laq??

That might be true - I've never used anything below the 750º Tempilaq.

 

[bow shot]

I used Tempil's e-contact link a few days ago, but never heard back... That's why I ask the brethren here.

 

[gilream]

I paint the 750 tempilaq inside the case mouth. Not sure what you mean about bringing the temperature up slowly but I would not think that that is a good idea. You may allow the heat to migrate to the case head and possibly soften it. That would be a very dangerous situation. Place the spinning case neck/shoulder junction at the tip of the blue flame and time how long it takes to melt the tempilaq. When it melts it turns black.

 

[bow shot]

No, that was just experimenting with a trash case to see if I could ever get the 'laq to "liquify" as the instructions on their website said it would.

So I tried "whacking" it with heat (ie immersing the case in the torch flame very close to the 'laq) as well as gradually birnging the heat up (ie., low torch flame, and applying the heat to the case quite far from the laq.

For "real" annealing set-up, I have been doing the inside the case mouth thing with the high temp laq, and also applying the low temp laq about 3/4" belos the shoulder.

Actually, I much prefer the tempil stick, but that's another story... I get the same reading using the 'stick as I get using the 'laq.

 

[Barlow]

I use 650 and it turns black, like it's supposed to. Barlow

 

[ridgeway]

The best Tempilaq I found is the light switch. Never dries up, no need for application, no need for clean up, cheap, lasts a long time!

 

[gilream]

I tried the tepilaq stick. i could never get it to stick to the brass case.

 

[Martin52]

Paint 450/475 deg tempilaq in a stripe running from the neck shoulder junction to the base. Apply the gas torch (drill/socket style or proper annealing machine) and you will see the tempilaq melt as the heat travels down the case. The intent is to stop the application of the heat when the tempilaq has melted no more than half an inch below the neck shoulder junction. Anymore and the case head heats excessively. My .308 brass requires about 6 seconds to get to this point.

Applying it to the case neck in my experience gives a different result, it blackens.

Martin

 

[pcrowe]

I just started using Tempilaq. Just received my Giraud annealer and I got the 700deg. and 450 for the case body. Am still not sure if the 700 for the case neck is what I should be using, however it definitely melts at temp. It dries a light pink and while watching the case spin, the Tempilaq will basically disappear when the temp is right. It is melting. Later when I'm sizing the cases, the ones with the Tempilaq have a thinner, lighter coat of the Tempilaq inside the neck. I remove this with a brass brush.
Is 700deg. the right temp for the neck?
The Giraud tool is far superior than a drill and socket, one at a time in the dark.

 

[bow shot]

So if I have this right, some folks actually see it melt and not blacken?

The stick isn't supposed to be applied cold, you touch it against the hot metal to discern if you have at the least, reached the desired temperature.

 

[Webster]

I don't think Tempilaq was meant to be used with a torch at 1800F on it to indicate 700F.

 

[bow shot]

Correct.

 

[gilream]

The stick isn't supposed to be applied cold, you touch it against the hot metal to discern if you have at the least, reached the desired temperature.
[/quote]

Thanks... I learn something new every day.

 

[Geronimo Jim]

I think it turn clear when temp is reached. If black, you are getting the flame on it.

 

[bow shot]

Well, I just got off the phone with Tempil: They assert that the 'laq should absolutely, indeed liquify in the manner that I experimented with it, and strongly implied that if the 'laq I have just turns black that it is defective. They are sending me a sample today, not sure how long till it gets to me.

The story gets more unusual...:

I had just bought a 'stick (750f) and that one absolutely would NOT melt on contact, (like my 400, 500 and 800f sticks do.

As I described my application circumstances and techniques (for both the 'laq and the 'stick) the customer rep did not at all hesitate, or imply that I might be using either product improperly. They will be sending me replacement samples.

There was inplication that before/after Tempil has changed hands, there may have bee some... boo boos. I'm trying very hard not to put words in their mouth.

I'll keep y'all posted as thing develop. Next step is getting the sample in-hand.

 

[Webster]

If the flame is on the Tempilaq it probably melts then turns black almost instantly. It always melts. I would put the Tempilaq inside the neck or on the shoulder away from the flame.

 

[csandfort]

I agree with Webster. I put the Tempilaq inside my case necks and it does melt! If I paint the same Tempilaq on the outside of the neck/shoulder it smokes for a split second and turns black without me seeing it liquify.

I'm not sure how you are applying the "stick" but the FAQ on the Tempilaq site claims you should not apply the stick to cold surfaces. It goes on to say that you should heat the metal then wipe the stick which will melt when the temperature is reached.

 

[Webster]

I used to work for Republic Steel Research 30 years ago. When we did hot rolling experiments we would have a hand full of Temple sticks for different temperatures and touch the hot steel quickly with several sticks to get approximate temperature. Usually we used thermal couples. A half inch thick plate loses temperature at a low rate. Welders sometimes use Tempilsticks when they have to preheat a piece of metal before welding. In other words the metal is hot then you put the Tempil stick on it. The problem with Temple sticks is that cartridge cases are heating and cooling at several hundred degrees per second. Don't use Tempil sticks use Tempilaq.