It's an interesting method but in both cases, the key is to anneal the right area with the right temperature heat source for the right amount of time. I would wager that one could not tell the difference if it was done properly with your method or a good annealing machine. Hand annealing is a whole different matter.mikecr said:I just melted a handful of large lead sinkers from Walmart into an inexpensive lead melting pot. I did spend a bit more(not much) for a thermocouple and indicator to set/watch the temp. This is cheap lead with a lot of impurities and melts ~500deg. I take it up to ~750deg.bow shot said:mikecr, tell me about your lead dip method.
Out of all the methods I've studied, I liked that one the best...
This is on a table outdoors.
Before stress relieving I had dipped my cases into Mobil1(don't even try anything else) and let them drain leaving only a barely visible film on them. I pick a case by the rim while wearing a glove and slowly lower into lead and slowly raise it back out. Same rate all the way. Then I drop the case into a bucket of purple stuff degreaser to remove the oil. For new cases that I'm improving/reforming I dip the cases as far as mid-body over a period of ~30sec each.
For necks only, ~8-10sec seems a good rate.
Early in testing this process I used other/calibrated instruments borrowed from work to watch web/casehead temps and be sure they were not raised near 450deg. They never even reached 200deg, even at mid-body level dipping on short cases(br, WSSM, 223, etc). For necks only, no glove is needed.
There are other minor factors to account for, but this is basics of lead dipping.
It's received bad press from people who were never successful in actually doing it. That's all that is.
They failed because they didn't use Mobil1.
Can we 'anneal' as consistently with torches? I seriously doubt it.
Of course speed wise the annealing machine would be faster, easier to setup and have a faster through put. The annealing machine would also be likely to be more expensive up front.