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Target Frames

Wonder what the ranges you shoot at use for methods to mount target frames, targets. We have a club with 300+ members, mostly hunters. Our ranges are: 100-/200-yards & meters with 10 covered benches on 8' centers; 25-/50-/100-yds. with 20 covered benches on 8' centers; and 50-yd. pistol range with 10 benches on 8' centers. Our ranges are flat and level, made from well-graded pastureland and gravel pits. All target mount locations are at the same level, making it impossible to use permanent target frames.

Our frames are made by splitting 8' 2x4s, cutting 28" from the end of each for cross-members, creating a target frame nearly 6' tall, 30" wide, with a 30x30" cardboard backer. These frames are mounted in holes at whatever distance the shooter desires.

We have used holes in the ground with plastic pipe inserts; always getting junk in the holes. Replaced them with pipe in cement, but no drainage, and holes still get filled with stones, etc. Looking for better ideas ...
 
What about just putting easily removable caps/plugs w/ a tie down (so they dont walk away) on the exposed pipes to keep junk out of them.
 
Our 100 yard range has railroad ties stacked two high with gravel piled in the front and a drop off on the backside. There is square tubing attached to the back of the railroad ties mounted in such a way that the crap drops through the tubing - on occassion you have to sweep out the pile. Our target frames consist of 2x2s with 1/4 inch plywood attached and the 2x2s drop down into the square tubing. Most people staple their targets directly to the plywood, but I tape my targets to cardboard and staple the cardboard to the plywood. The plywood gets shot up, but actually lasts a long time. A few idiots shoot up the 2x2s, but most of them have that part of the support structure figured out and don't do it.
 
We hang plastic show fence between post, pulled tight with bungee cords. Support rods can be run through the fence to the ground.

Terry
 
Reed,
Check out www.ersportsman.com I am the President of this club and the photo on the front of the web page shows our 100 yard bench area. We used to have individual targets approx. 4'x4' every 6' or so across the 100 yard range. Backers were constantly being shot up.

A couple years ago, we went will full length across the range with OSB and then painted it. 2x4 run horizontally between posts to support the backers. Targets can be placed anywhere on the backer so shots are more spread out. The backers last a full calendar year, and could go more, but we replace the entire backer every year just for something to do. We run 4 weekends of deer rifle sight-in in addition to 675 members banging away at the backers. We did it this year on the 25/50 yard line which is sort of our plinkers range where pistols, shotguns, muzzleoaders and rifles can be shot. It is holding up great. We actually use just as much backer material as before, but it is used more efficiently.
Scott
 
We have target lines at 25, 50, 100 and 200 yards downrange from the shooting line.
The shooting line is about 75 yards across - we have twenty covered bays.

At each target line we have two lengths of heavy (10"x3"x1/2") iron "rails" lying parallel to each other that lie across the range. There is a small slot between the faces of the rails into which the target stand legs slip. Target stands are 2"x1"s, with a center of 36"x36" to hold a cardboard backer to paste/tape the target to. The two outside frame parts are 6' long and slip into the slot described. The rails do not sit on the ground but are raised 6" and are somewhat recessed into/behind the gravel & crushed clays range surface.
This leaves room for rocks and chunks of clays to not get stuck in the slot while the target stand legs fit between the rails, fairly snug, and hold the frame upright even in wind.
target1.jpg

Target2.jpg

Target4.jpg

Target3.jpg

Photos added 12-8
 
Great set-up, Scott. Many years ago when we only had a 100-yard range we had a similar set-up. Now, though, we have multiple yardages available all from the same shooting line. So any permanent target frames will block all those behind them. Thus, a full-width target frame at 25 yards would block the ones at 50 and 100.

Our users pick up a target frame (like the one in the post from killshot above) and place it at the yardage they want to shoot at. Sometimes at 25 for a boresight, 50 for a better zero, then at 100 for sighting in. There can be a dozen or more shooters at any given time on the weekend shooting at all distances simultaneously.
 
Our target frames are hinged on a continuous heavy angle iron anchored to the ground. There are three rows of frames (50, 100 and 200 yd.) all on flat level ground like at Caledonia. The frames are laying backwards flat on the ground when not in use. When in use the frame is held up with a strut that swings on a bolt roughly halfway up the frame. When the frame is raised, the bottom end of the strut drags on the ground until the frame is upright. Then the strut holds in the sand at roughly a 45 degree angle to hold the frame up. Only one frame per bench is up at any given time. Different benches can be at different distances.
The frames are made of 2x4 held together with screws. A large piece of plywood is screwed to the frame. The plywood gets shot out and is replaced periodically. The frame also gets shot out by the occasional twit and eventually some 2x4s need to be replaced. Using screws makes it rather easy to repair the frames. By making the frames on the large side, there is less chance the 2x4s will get hit.
Sand is mounded completely in front of the angle iron base to protect it. Very rarely the 200 yard frames will take a bullet, even if it is laying flat on the ground, that has been shot through a closer frame, .
Very user friendly. Will take some pictures for you next time I'm at the range. Or come on up for some eggnog and I will give you a VIP tour of the range ;)
 

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