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Tailstock DRO

When I commented earlier about these fixtures being for lathes without graduated handwheels, I was half-joking. I decided, maybe the handwheel markings are so inaccurate that the installation of a dial gauge mightn't be a bad idea, so I decided to test mine.
I set my Mititoyo gauge up to contact the front of the quill and set it to zero. I ran it out .050, according to the graduations on the wheel, and the dial read .050. I ran it out .300, and the dial read on the light side of .300. I ran it out .500 and the dial read .499 plus a whisker. I re-ran the test with a little tension on the quill lock, and the difference was barely discernible. I tried another gauge with similar results. A third gauge read exactly the same as the dial as long as I used some drag on the quill via the lock. If there was no drag applied, variation was greater, up to .0015 per .500. Since my final cut, when reaming a chamber, is usually around .020, I don't think I'll worry about it. I always use a little drag on the quill.
By the way, because the graduated dial on the quill feed on my mill/drill is so inaccurate, I always use a dial gauge on it, but I think my lathe tailstock is ok. WH
 
When I commented earlier about these fixtures being for lathes without graduated handwheels, I was half-joking. I decided, maybe the handwheel markings are so inaccurate that the installation of a dial gauge mightn't be a bad idea, so I decided to test mine.
I set my Mititoyo gauge up to contact the front of the quill and set it to zero. I ran it out .050, according to the graduations on the wheel, and the dial read .050. I ran it out .300, and the dial read on the light side of .300. I ran it out .500 and the dial read .499 plus a whisker. I re-ran the test with a little tension on the quill lock, and the difference was barely discernible. I tried another gauge with similar results. A third gauge read exactly the same as the dial as long as I used some drag on the quill via the lock. If there was no drag applied, variation was greater, up to .0015 per .500. Since my final cut, when reaming a chamber, is usually around .020, I don't think I'll worry about it. I always use a little drag on the quill.
By the way, because the graduated dial on the quill feed on my mill/drill is so inaccurate, I always use a dial gauge on it, but I think my lathe tailstock is ok. WH
I used to use the dial on the tailstock too, But I installed a digital because it does have the benefit of a one touch zero, It's actually very handy to have, Plus my friend gave it to me!
 
My tailstock handwheel has no graduations, and the feedscrew in it is 5mm pitch. I will eventually be setting up something like this.
 
There ya go! You need something. I would be inclined to go with a dial gauge. No battery. You could also just make a graduated ring for your wheel. WH
You guys sure make your life hard!
Put a 1 inch drop indicator on the carriage that picks up the bar clamped to your tail stock quill. (I use a mini mag base)
Bring the reamer to the barrel datum and the carriage to the quill bar and zero your z on your readout. With a 15 power eyerometer, I can pick it up within .002
Let's say I'm going 1.454. I'll move the carriage 1.000 . When the quill bar hits zero I know I've got .454 to go on the indicator.
I can retract the tail stock, move the carriage and bring it all back to the exact place as before. No need for any hard stop on the tail stock
Alan
 

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