Switching barrels

[rpierce]

I am new to switching barrels. I was wondering if I should put anti seize on the threads of the barrel. I took off my 6 BR barrel and had a hard time getting it to come off. When I got it off the threads in one spot were kind of messed up a little. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

[Bob3700]

Make sure that you bbl threads have some sort of lube. Anti-sieze is just fine.

Don't get carried away with bbl torque. Most benchresters just "Snap" the bbl on by hand and give the action wrench a tap.

That is all it should take to secure the bbls.

Bob

 

[GermanS1]

In addition to what Bob said, look carefully at the "messed up" spot. If it's round, it's probably a scope base screw that's too long and is running into the threads. If so, then you're not only buggering up the thread, but the base isn't as tight as it should be.

 

[rpierce]

Thank you for your help. I appreciate it.

 

[fdshuster]

Very interesting post, for me at this time. I'm in the process of having my first switch-barrel rifle put together-- 6BR to 308. Have been advised to get the Davidson barrel vise, Holland receiver wrench, for the Rem 700), and the Kleindorst lug tool to keep it lined up when I tighten the barrel. I've been told that when pinning the rcoil lug, the pin may shear? Really am undecided about how much torque to use with ft. lbs. torque wrench. I've heard everything from "hard hand tight only",, Col. Hornbeck?) to 40#, to 100#,Holland), to 125# from a local gunsmith. Have thought about torqueing to approx. 40#, and putting a "witness mark" with a very small drop of paint, left side of the receiver joint where the barrel meets the receiver. Then keep a check on it, starts to move, tighten a little more, etc. Don't want to over-tighten the barrel. Have also been told rosen on the barrel contact surfaces will prevent markings on blueing & glass beaded stainless. A lot to learn here, for me, so any first-hand knowledge/experience would be appreciated.

 

[Rustystud]

Clean the existing threads out thoroughly. Clean the threads on the new barrel thoruoghtly. Examine for damage and chips. Then coat with high temperature bearing grease. Screw the new barrel on with 60-75 foot pounds of torque. It should stay put and come off easy the next time.

Rustystud

 

[Woodman]

What is a Kleindorst lug tool? Is the preferable to pinning the recoil lug? Thanks, George

 

[alf]

The lug alignment tool is notched to capture the recoil lug, a bolt is used to screw the tool into to front action screw hole, which holds the lug in position while you snug down the barrel.

If everything is flat and true, meaning barrel shoulder, lug, and action face, when you screw on the barrel just about all the way on and snap it home at the end, you probably won't be able to unscrew it by hand. At that point I put it in the vise and just lean on the action wrench at bit and call it a day.

Al