Switch barrel...switch scope.

[DaveMarine1]

For those of you who shoot switch barrels (two cal. one rifle) how do you deal with the zero of the scope? Are you able to simply remove the scope and rings off the base and switch barrels and have the scope be on?
I guess my example would be:
Shooting FTR rifle, then want to shoot varmints with 6mmBR. So I switch barrel to 6mmbr and go to the range and shoot. I find that the 6br shoots 2MOA up and 2MOA left, so I adjust and now it is zeroed for the 6mmBR.
When I put the FTR barrel back on and set the scope back to its original zero, the rifle should now be zeroed and I can just go back and forth from barrel to barrel and from scope zero to scope zero.

Is this the common practice for most? Or, do most just get a separate scope, switch barrels and have a dedicated scope that is zeroed for its own barrel? Hope to hear what's out there. Thank you in advance.

David

 

[Erik Cortina]

You do not need to remove the scope, unless you have a Savage with a barrel nut. If you have a true switch barrel rifle, just replace barrel and keep track of scope adjustments.

I use NF NXS scopes with 10 MOA per revolution. I move scope all the say to the bottom of its travel and zero it there. From there on I treat it like a micrometer, which makes it easy to keep track of adjustments from barrel to barrel.

 

[DaveMarine1]

You do not need to remove the scope, unless you have a Savage with a barrel nut. If you have a true switch barrel rifle, just replace barrel and keep track of scope adjustments.

I use NF NXS scopes with 10 MOA per revolution. I move scope all the say to the bottom of its travel and zero it there. From there on I treat it like a micrometer, which makes it easy to keep track of adjustments from barrel to barrel.

Thanks for the info Erik,
I shoot a Defiance Machine with NF Comp. scope. So it sounds like I should get a Davidson vise and action wrench, but, the rear entering action wrench if the scope stays on.
I see what you are saying about turning the turrets all the way down and zeroing. Makes sense.

 

[fdshuster]

David: I've tried it both ways: A dedicated scope for each barrel on a switch-barrel receiver, and one scope for each receiver.

When I first started doing switch-barrels, each receiver only had a maximum of 2 barrels each, now several have 3 and 4 barrels, so the dedicated method is out of the question now---- just too many scopes required, with some sitting around not being used.

I like and use Erik's method: one scope for each receiver, and have the 100 yard zero setting recorded for each. Even when going from one cartridge to another, in most cases I find the 100 yard zero's to be very close, so there is no re-sighting-in required, just some record keeping notes of required click-ups and a few for windage.

 

[ar15topgun]

The ability to use one scope with making adjustments for each barrel will depend on the scopes ability to track precisely each time.

 

[gunnermhr]

Are you guys saying that after you switch from one barrel to another you simply set your scope to the recorded setting and you don't need to sight it in? Mine isn't like that, It's close, usually within a minute at a 100 yards but never dead on.

 

[DaveMarine1]

Thanks for the advise guys.

David

 

[Erik Cortina]

David: I've tried it both ways: A dedicated scope for each barrel on a switch-barrel receiver, and one scope for each receiver.

When I first started doing switch-barrels, each receiver only had a maximum of 2 barrels each, now several have 3 and 4 barrels, so the dedicated method is out of the question now---- just too many scopes required, with some sitting around not being used.

I like and use Erik's method: one scope for each receiver, and have the 100 yard zero setting recorded for each. Even when going from one cartridge to another, in most cases I find the 100 yard zero's to be very close, so there is no re-sighting-in required, just some record keeping notes of required click-ups and a few for windage.

To further explain my method, I do not have the barrels zeroed at any distance, but I have data from the bottom of the scope travel for each scope.

My notes look like this:
6.5 x 47 Lapua barrel:
100 yards = 17.00 MOA
300 yards = 20.50 MOA
600 yards = 28.50 MOA
800 yards = 35.25 MOA
900 yards = 39.00 MOA
1000 yards = 43.25 MOA

.300 Dasher XL:
100 yards = 17.50 MOA
300 yards = 21.00 MOA
And so on.


I don't make notes for windage on each barrel because the way I chamber barrels I am always very close one to the next on windage. But for a precise set up, I would make detailed notes about windage as well. You could do the same as on the elevation know and bottom it out and use the windage know like a micrometer and have absolute values from zero. Of course, it will take some getting used to. Another way is to count from bottom, and once you get to your desired point, zero knob.

 

[Jay Christopherson]

I have one match scope for both my match receivers and the different barrels and I do essentially the same thing Erik does - I keep track of adjustment for each caliber from the scope's zero. I also keep track of windage, e.g.:

6 Dasher, 600Y: U/0 -> 11.125MOA, L/0 -> .75MOA

I've found that windage doesn't really change a lot from barrel to barrel, but I keep track for the heck of it.

 

[NateHaler]

Are you guys saying that after you switch from one barrel to another you simply set your scope to the recorded setting and you don't need to sight it in? Mine isn't like that, It's close, usually within a minute at a 100 yards but never dead on.

No, that's not what they're saying. They're saying it will be close enough to make keeping the scope on the receiver WAY more convenient than changing scopes -- and speaking of changing scopes, that's a bad idea in my opinion. The switch-barrel concept is supposed to be about convenience, and I suppose to some degree about precluding the need to buy more than one action. But if you're going to change barrels and scopes, then it's not convenient at all. And the idea that taking off one scope and putting on another will eliminate the need to confirm/adjust zeroes, that's not realistic. At least for match shooting it isn't. Fractions of an MOA at distance can mean winning or losing. And ditto short range BR, where groups are measured to 3 decimal places.

I've competed in matches that required a CBS (cold bore shot). No sighting in. So what do you do, whether or not the rifle is a switch barrel config? You sight it in before the match, e.g. before you show up.

8)

 

[dmoran]

Here is how I do it:

Pinned lugs / Barrel vise / Rear-action wrench / Pro Gold (moly grease)
No un-scoping or un-stocking, just swap the barrels in and out, with around 50-ft-lbs of torque (Pro Gold on threads)

Then Zero the scope to each barrel's records like this:

100 Yard Zero (from the bottom and from the left)
Bartlien1 <> 6-1 MOA Up /\ 21-3 MOA Right
Brux <> 5-7 MOA Up /\ 20-3 MOA Right
Bartlien2 <> 6-1 MOA Up /\ 20-2 MOA Right
McGown <> 5-7 MOA Up /\ 20-1 MOA Right
Etc........

 

[DaveMarine1]

Again, thanks for all the information guys. Takes the anxiety away from have switch barrels ha.

 

[fdshuster]

David: The only problem I have with my switch-barrels, is which barrel to mount on the receiver? When you have 2 , 3, or more barrels fitted to one receiver, and they are excellent shooters, it gets tough to decide.

 

[DaveMarine1]

How do you decide that the barrel is torqued enough? Does the smith make a mark on the receiver and barrel? Obviously, if the scope is on, you are all using a rear entering action wrench? What kind? The Davidson?

 

[4xforfun]

How do you decide that the barrel is torqued enough? Does the smith make a mark on the receiver and barrel? Obviously, if the scope is on, you are all using a rear entering action wrench? What kind? The Davidson?

I don't torque mine...just chunk it on and give it a hit with the wrench....good enough. The wrench for my BAT's is a left port entry. No need to remove the scope for that. On the other hand, if you have a long scope and it is slid way back, my rear entry wrench can't go into the reciever very far.

 

[dmoran]

On the other hand, if you have a long scope and it is slid way back, my rear entry wrench can't go into the reciever very far.

Depends what rear action wrench you have...... with a 6-pt head, rear action wrench, it is not problem.

 

[4xforfun]

On the other hand, if you have a long scope and it is slid way back, my rear entry wrench can't go into the reciever very far.

Depends what rear action wrench you have...... with a 6-pt head, rear action wrench, it is not problem.

Not a problem with a socket...big problem with an open end/box end wrench.

I can't afford one...spent all my money on powder and bullets!!!