Swabbing before the first shot

[Geronimo Jim]

E Z Lock for me. If it is good enough for Tony Boyer, its good enought
for me.

 

[Dave M.]

I'm surprised nobody mentioned LockEase

Mentioned more than once above ^^^^

 

[quest450]

Mentioned more than once above ^^^^

Thank you for pointing it out again, I'm gonna pay a little more attention next time

 

[clowdis]

OK, OK, I give up, I'll quit using WD40, although I've used it for 50 years without any adverse effects. Now can we get back to the original question?

 

[quest450]

three small dots of LockEase on a patch after your cleaning method for short time storage or between relays and send a fouler/sighter down range, never had a problem.

 

[wkdickinson]

Just thinking about this the other day. I leave WD40 in my barrels after I clean them and never swab it out before I begin shooting. I doubt that WD40 is a compressible liquid so I began wondering what happens with the first bullet fired. I realize that most of it is expelled by the gases preceding the bullet but there has to be some that gets "ironed" into the rifling by the bullet. Actually if you compress it enough you can probably get it to "diesel" in the bore. So I was wondering if this residual oil left in the barrel could be the cause of some of the pitting in the bore that we normally attribute to fire cracking? Would be nice to hear a manufacturers take on this.

When I clean (which is after every time I shoot - target rifles) I leave my bore dry, so there is no need to run a clean patch down it. My barrels are SS and I shoot them a lot - no need to leave oil in them.

 

[jds holler]

So yesterday, I took my old M77 Ruger 270 out to the range to see if I have accomplished anything with my recent scrubbing with Boretech Copper cleaner. After the last scrubbing session, I'd left a light coating of Ed's Red in the bore. When I was set up to shoot, I ran a dry patch through it and snuggled in for my first shot. Puttered around for a few minutes, then sent the second shot almost into the same hole. I'm thinking, "WOW!! I've solved my problem!! Puttered around awhile, and sent the third shot down and -- freakin three inches out. Two more shots, and I had a crappy 3MOA group.

I think the point I was gonna make is that dry patching for the first shot kept that first cold shot in the group. However my group was so crappy that it might not be much of a valid point.

Anybody want to buy a 3 MOA M77?? jd

 

[Dave M.]

So yesterday, I took my old M77 Ruger 270 out to the range to see if I have accomplished anything with my recent scrubbing with Boretech Copper cleaner. After the last scrubbing session, I'd left a light coating of Ed's Red in the bore. When I was set up to shoot, I ran a dry patch through it and snuggled in for my first shot. Puttered around for a few minutes, then sent the second shot almost into the same hole. I'm thinking, "WOW!! I've solved my problem!! Puttered around awhile, and sent the third shot down and -- freakin three inches out. Two more shots, and I had a crappy 3MOA group.

I think the point I was gonna make is that dry patching for the first shot kept that first cold shot in the group. However my group was so crappy that it might not be much of a valid point.

Anybody want to buy a 3 MOA M77?? jd
View attachment 1579179

Front rear? Rear rest?

 

[Old Navy]

So yesterday, I took my old M77 Ruger 270 out to the range to see if I have accomplished anything with my recent scrubbing with Boretech Copper cleaner. After the last scrubbing session, I'd left a light coating of Ed's Red in the bore. When I was set up to shoot, I ran a dry patch through it and snuggled in for my first shot. Puttered around for a few minutes, then sent the second shot almost into the same hole. I'm thinking, "WOW!! I've solved my problem!! Puttered around awhile, and sent the third shot down and -- freakin three inches out. Two more shots, and I had a crappy 3MOA group.

I think the point I was gonna make is that dry patching for the first shot kept that first cold shot in the group. However my group was so crappy that it might not be much of a valid point.

Anybody want to buy a 3 MOA M77?? jd
View attachment 1579179

My old Ruger that had the angled front action screw had a torque setting that needed to be followed. The stock touched the barrel ( wood stock ) on the last inch. I floated it all the way and the bullets went all over the place. Go figure!

 

[Rat Rifle]

That rifle is fine for hunting. “Fa get about” those last 3. JMO

 

[RabbitSlayer]

If I oil the bore at the end I run 2 very saturated patches followed by 1 dry to get out the excess. It doesn't need to be thick to protect it, just a thin film. I have never patched it before shooting.

I also use wipe out and don't oil after most the time. I also do lock ez if storage is short term.
I oil only for long term storage or if I did alcohol to remove iosso.

All 3 work fine. All 3 result in a slow first shot. Its 50 fps slow in my 6 creed. All three look the same when bore scoped. If you don't bore scope, it's all just a bunch of made up BS.

I agree no WD. Its a lousy rust prevention and eventually becomes thick.

 

[Andy Work]

WD 40 is great for removing roof tar or pine sap, but is best kept away from guns. I store my rifles, muzzle down, with a thin coating of oil in the bore and patch out before shooting.

 

[jelenko]

OK, OK, I give up, I'll quit using WD40, although I've used it for 50 years without any adverse effects. Now can we get back to the original question?

My take is the lack of anyone mentioning concern about oil in the barrel causing damage is your answer.
If it were, there would be whole threads on how various oils are causing loss of accuracy.