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stripping rem 700 bolt

I have stripped the bolt from a rem 700, "firing pin, ejector," but have not removed and replaced the clip extractor. I was going to strip it to send off to be mellonited and would like to know the procedure and what is involved if it is something that is very hard. Thank You, Ron
 
if its a riveted extractor find the spot where it comes thru and punch it toward the firing pin hole into the bolt face. may as well go ahead and machine it for a sako extractor while its out cause itll never go back in there and a new one will never work right unless you have the fixture remington uses to peen them in. also be sure its trued exact because you wont ever do anything else to it machine-wise.
 
RW said:
I have stripped the bolt from a rem 700, "firing pin, ejector," but have not removed and replaced the clip extractor. I was going to strip it to send off to be mellonited and would like to know the procedure and what is involved if it is something that is very hard. Thank You, Ron
Is the extractor rivited in or the newer 'clip-in' ?(you can see the rivit head on the bolt face side if it's rivited). I've replaced a bunch of Remington 700 extractors of both kinds with never more than a bit of adjustment to get them to work properly (made my own peening fixture for the rivited type). If you decide to do the alteration to a "claw", I'd do the M16 type, which is hinge pinned, instead of the Sako style.
 
Carbide tooling will cut right through that Melonite stuff with no problems, if you forget to do the truing..
 
Why would you Melonite a bolt body? Melonite increases the surface hardness for wear resistance. The bolt body shouldn't be seeing wear. I would be concerned that heat treating might warp the bolt and ruin it. I would put my money into something else to improve accuracy. I never see guys at the range put an Extreme Pressure grease on the bolt lugs and cocking ramp like your supposed to.
 

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