Stopping the ammonia action

[bsekf]

How do you stop the action of ammonia on the bore? Old thread said to use brake cleaner. I usually end my cleaning process with a wet ATF patch followed by a bore snake. I read through the "Sweet's" thread, but didn't see anything about stopping the chemical reaction.

Bill

 

[Gabe22BR]

Water

 

[Bc'z]

I run a patch of this followed by a couple dry patches after using Wype out.
Biodegradable, smells and tastes great too!!

 

[painter]

Hydrogen Peroxide is 4,5 on the ph scale it will neutralize ammonia

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I like carb cleaner. I put that s*it on everything (except stock paint)

 

[Bc'z]

I like carb cleaner. I put that s*it on everything (except stock paint)

Now I need to test Simtech to see how it stands up to the dreaded dribbles.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Now I need to test Simtech to see how it stands up to the dreaded dribbles.

Go down to napa and get that old cheap carb and choke cleaner and see what happens

 

[Bc'z]

Go down to napa and get that old cheap carb and choke cleaner and see what happens

I'm gonna send you a text, short video of me banging a puck of simtech clear on a metal step.
Tuff stuff, you wont do that with automotive clear.

 

[jghoghunter]

I'm gonna send you a text, short video of me banging a puck of simtech clear on a metal step.
Tuff stuff, you wont do that with automotive clear.

Brett can I get that video also? Thanks Jesse

 

[Bc'z]

Brett can I get that video also? Thanks Jesse

You bet! On its way

 

[dthomas]

I also use carb cleaner to clean out anything in the barrel

 

[divingin]

Sounds like acids or hydrogen eproxide will neutralize it:

https://www.hunker.com/13420065/what-neutralizes-an-ammonia-smell

I suspect most people just wipe it out and/or dilute it until there isn't enough left to worry about.

 

[biggun2869]

All of these guys know more than I do, but I agree with the 2nd post, that water negates the action of the cleaner. Gary

 

[Ned Ludd]

Ammonia is very volatile. You don't need to stop or neutralize the chemical reaction. Getting most of the ammonia-containing solution out will do the trick. Two or three dry patches should be sufficient; however, you can also run a damp (tap water) patch or two first, if you feel the need. Subsequent steps in the cleaning process using a lubricant or protectant, such as Kroil or gun oil, will help lift any remaining traces of ammonia off of the barrel steel, to be removed with the final dry patches.

 

[JBT47]

I use 99% Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol). One damp patch then dry patch...wait one minute then a couple drops of bore oil then one dry patch.

 

[Pres100]

Hydrogen Peroxide is 4,5 on the ph scale it will neutralize ammonia

This. Its also a good idea to neutralize if switching cleaners as well - some will chemically react and etch. I believe shooter choice and Sweets was a bad combo if I remember correctly... it's been a while

 

[painter]

I'm gonna send you a text, short video of me banging a puck of simtech clear on a metal step.
Tuff stuff, you wont do that with automotive clear.

Tell me more of semtech I paint, I'm looking for a tuff clear.

 

[Bc'z]

PM me your phone number a and I'll send you short video.
It's a polyester primer and clear system that as @1shot calls it harder than Superman's elbow, yet flexible to ensure it moves with the substrate mainly wood as it's designed for use on fine instruments but is also compatible with use on carbon fiber, fiberglass.
Tougher than any automotive clear I've ever used in 30+ years of automotive refinishing. I use it on all the stocks I spray as i want a product that will stand up to 1000's of rounds of rifle recoiling in the bags. Also economical in comparison to automotive finishes with a faster dry time putting the stock back in the shooters hands in short order. 5 days is my quickest turn around for a custom painted stock polished and shipped back to the customer.

 

[Hntndad]

PM me your phone number a and I'll send you short video.
It's a polyester primer and clear system that as @1shot calls it harder than Superman's elbow, yet flexible to ensure it moves with the substrate mainly wood as it's designed for use on fine instruments but is also compatible with use on carbon fiber, fiberglass.
Tougher than any automotive clear I've ever used in 30+ years of automotive refinishing. I use it on all the stocks I spray as i want a product that will stand up to 1000's of rounds of rifle recoiling in the bags. Also economical in comparison to automotive finishes with a faster dry time putting the stock back in the shooters hands in short order. 5 days is my quickest turn around for a custom painted stock polished and shipped back to the customer.

THIS is great example of why Brett is the best in the business. NO problems sharing a wealth of information.

 

[painter]

PM me your phone number a and I'll send you short video.
It's a polyester primer and clear system that as @1shot calls it harder than Superman's elbow, yet flexible to ensure it moves with the substrate mainly wood as it's designed for use on fine instruments but is also compatible with use on carbon fiber, fiberglass.
Tougher than any automotive clear I've ever used in 30+ years of automotive refinishing. I use it on all the stocks I spray as i want a product that will stand up to 1000's of rounds of rifle recoiling in the bags. Also economical in comparison to automotive finishes with a faster dry time putting the stock back in the shooters hands in short order. 5 days is my quickest turn around for a custom painted stock polished and shipped back to the customer.

This should work on refinishing automobile wheels.thanks