Stocks with barrel blocks

[TRA]

FWIW, Shehane has a laminated stock that is designed for "L" class actions.
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2008/07/shehane-big-dawg-4-wide-mbr-tracker/

 

[Depart123]

FWIW, Shehane has a laminated stock that is designed for "L" class actions.
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2008/07/shehane-big-dawg-4-wide-mbr-tracker/

Very interesting, I'll keep that one in mind. I have to decide on the bipod I want to use, then see if something like that could be compatible or modified to be so.

 

[Depart123]

I was looking at the Terminator T5 muzzle break, any other suggestions?

 

[dkhunt14]

You're right, there isn't any reason not to get the big action.

The next question is, who are the vendors that make such barrels? The only company I've found that actually lists a 1.4" 10 twist 375 barrel is Lilja. Neither Hart, Bartlein, Benchmark nor Krieger list a barrel that meets these specs.

Are these barrels custom order from these companies or are there a handful of names other than these, that everyone in this game uses?

If you look at Kriegers info. Farther down on the page is a charge for oversize barrels. I believe the 1.350 and the 1.450 is there. The literature I have says +1.250 -1.450 is $100.00
1.450-2.000 is $150.00.
There is also a charge per inch over 28 inch. 15.00 an inch up to 1.450, 20.00 an inch over 1.450. Matt

 

[LA50SHOOTER]

Thinking of building a 375 Cheytac on a Stiller 408 single shot action and a 29-32" barrel. I was thinking of using a barrel block instead of standard bedding. I need recommendations on the type of stock ( Tooley type stock maybe?) and a builder who can inlet it for the barrel block.

Bill Shehane at D&B has done 2 rifles for me with barrel blocks & here's how Bill explained it to me.
There are at least 2 methods (probably more) commonly employed.

The "Split-Block" method which allows the user to switch out barrels pretty easily. - These barrels have some type of tape or "dampening" element applied at the block clamping area. - Allen type hex cap screws that are torqued hold the barrel in the block. The "dampening" substance is only present on the barrel at the area that sits in the block.

Glue-In Block. (Which is the route I went). - The Block is not split, It has a hole bored that is larger than the barrel diameter. And the barrel is glued (and indexed) into the block. - I don't know exactly what kind of glue is used but Bill told me it is very strong & provides the better of the 2 methods of harmonic damping for a barrel block type rifle. - The Block is reusable in that the block needs to be heated up (how much I don't know - Bill does) and then the barrel can be pressed out. The internal hole cleaned up & a new barrel can be installed (Glued in).

Both Rifles shoot extremely well - Both stocks are Maxi-Trackers.

For the OP, - I would recommend at least 32" (or more) for barrel length on a 375 Chey-Tac based cartridge. As far as stocks you would need a stock that has enough width forward of the action area to facilitate installation of the block. - The blocks that I'm using for a 1.450 dia. barrel are 3" wide and ate made of T7075 aluminum alloy. (on a 300 WSM running 32" barrels).
- Dave Tooley has made a good recommendation in using a BAT model "L" 1.75 action. They will handle large diameter barrels no problem. (The action requires a 1.450 dia. barrel minimum as per BAT) The Model "L" has a Long Tenon length as well and the thread dia. is 1.25 dia.
I'm running a 2.00" dia. Bat model "L" with 1.700 barrels (1.700 for 9" then straight taper to 1.300) that are 34" & 36" in length free-floated with no problem. - The same could be done with the 1.75" Octagon model "L" BAT action.

Good Luck with your new project !!

 

[Depart123]

Bill Shehane at D&B has done 2 rifles for me with barrel blocks & here's how Bill explained it to me.
There are at least 2 methods (probably more) commonly employed.

The "Split-Block" method which allows the user to switch out barrels pretty easily. - These barrels have some type of tape or "dampening" element applied at the block clamping area. - Allen type hex cap screws that are torqued hold the barrel in the block. The "dampening" substance is only present on the barrel at the area that sits in the block.

Glue-In Block. (Which is the route I went). - The Block is not split, It has a hole bored that is larger than the barrel diameter. And the barrel is glued (and indexed) into the block. - I don't know exactly what kind of glue is used but Bill told me it is very strong & provides the better of the 2 methods of harmonic damping for a barrel block type rifle. - The Block is reusable in that the block needs to be heated up (how much I don't know - Bill does) and then the barrel can be pressed out. The internal hole cleaned up & a new barrel can be installed (Glued in).

Both Rifles shoot extremely well - Both stocks are Maxi-Trackers.

For the OP, - I would recommend at least 32" (or more) for barrel length on a 375 Chey-Tac based cartridge. As far as stocks you would need a stock that has enough width forward of the action area to facilitate installation of the block. - The blocks that I'm using for a 1.450 dia. barrel are 3" wide and ate made of T7075 aluminum alloy. (on a 300 WSM running 32" barrels).
- Dave Tooley has made a good recommendation in using a BAT model "L" 1.75 action. They will handle large diameter barrels no problem. (The action requires a 1.450 dia. barrel minimum as per BAT) The Model "L" has a Long Tenon length as well and the thread dia. is 1.25 dia.
I'm running a 2.00" dia. Bat model "L" with 1.700 barrels (1.700 for 9" then straight taper to 1.300) that are 34" & 36" in length free-floated with no problem. - The same could be done with the 1.75" Octagon model "L" BAT action.

Good Luck with your new project !!

Thank you for the encouragement as well as the info. The game I'm chasing is the "King of 2 Mile" type shooting. The rules aren't exactly set in stone yet, but I know how I will spend the majority of my practice time. I will have to hump this rifle a little ways to the firing points and shoot ridge to ridge. That means weight is of some concern, but not critical.

I have already put some calls into McMillan and got their recommendations for the BAT L action. The rep is researching a couple of others to see if they could work. He said the MBR's as well as the TAC-50A1 and the A5 Super Magnum should all work. However, only the MBR's will accept a block. So I need to figure out if any of the bipods I'm looking at are somehow compatible with a MBR stock.

I'm still not decided, though I'm leaning toward traditional bedding at the moment, and this will be an extended project anyway. I'm figuring somewhere around $8,000 for the whole package including dies, reamers, components etc. and I don't have all of that right now...luckily I already have a scope.

 

[LA50SHOOTER]

Thank you for the encouragement as well as the info. The game I'm chasing is the "King of 2 Mile" type shooting. The rules aren't exactly set in stone yet, but I know how I will spend the majority of my practice time. I will have to hump this rifle a little ways to the firing points and shoot ridge to ridge. That means weight is of some concern, but not critical.

I have already put some calls into McMillan and got their recommendations for the BAT L action. The rep is researching a couple of others to see if they could work. He said the MBR's as well as the TAC-50A1 and the A5 Super Magnum should all work. However, only the MBR's will accept a block. So I need to figure out if any of the bipods I'm looking at are somehow compatible with a MBR stock.

I'm still not decided, though I'm leaning toward traditional bedding at the moment, and this will be an extended project anyway. I'm figuring somewhere around $8,000 for the whole package including dies, reamers, components etc. and I don't have all of that right now...luckily I already have a scope.

Very Good Indeed,

One stock that you may want to consider is the McMillian ELR "Beast". - It's designed around this type of shooting. - Has a "long wheel-base" and is big enough for the actions that accommodate the Chey-Tac Case. And it looks very user friendly for mounting a Bi-Pod also. Its larger than the MBR but its not over-bulky either.
I know if I was doing what your planning on, I would go with a Big action and free-float the barrel(s).
If you go with a BAT model "L" you could also have them provide a 2nd bolt if you wanted to say shoot a Chey-Tac and a 338 Lapua or a 378 Weatherby case-head. - BAT can provide this (I have no affiliation) and you can broaden the Switch-barrel perspective if that's something that appeals to you.

All The Best !!