Stock shrinkage???

[MGYSGT]

I own 2 CZ's, one in .22 Hornet and the other is the .22 Match. As we all know, this summer has been a hot one ( a few days in the 128 range). Here in Arizona, my safe is in the garage. So, a couple of weeks ago I shot the Hornet in our 200 yard bench-rest match. After the match while cleaning it, the rifle came up out of the stock just a bit. Thought my attention to bolt tightening was at fault. Today, while practicing for tomorrows 100 yard rimfire bench-rest match, the plate on the front of the stock was loose. Both rifles have wood stocks of very good quality. They are not laminated and I am wondering if they shrank due to this years crazy heat. Anyone else experienced this? What would be a good oil to use on these stocks?

 

[Lesloan]

I don't know that oiling the stocks would help, but pillar bedding might. Oiling's liable to just make the wood softer, over time. You might try using a torque driver on the action screws just before each match to be sure everything stays constant. I found the best torque for my CZ .22's through experimentation. Generally found 15-20 in./lb to be about right for all 4 rifles. I don't have a CZ centerfire so can't say anything there.

P.S. the garage probably isn't the greatest place for gun safes. From what I've read, high temps can be hard on optics. Just what I've read--I don't have any expertise on the subject.

 

[joshb]

You’re stock is drying out from the sustained low humidity. The same thing happened to the guns I took to Texas.. Wood moves. Period! Sealing the entire stock in epoxy will give you the most protection from moisture transfer but it’s not perfect or forever. Oils would be the least protective. I haven’t read any studies about multiple coats of auto clear but I would think it would be closer to the epoxy treatment.
A while ago, a guy was touting how great a certain wood stock was. He proclaimed that he had measured a stock to the thousandths of an inch and it “didn’t move”. I bit my tongue while my mind screamed BULLCOOKIES!

 

[Plumsask]

Only when it's cold out......

 

[XTR]

I saw a laminate/hardwood composite from a well known maker warp in PHX during the FCNC last yr. That lead to a discussion with some locals who commented that suggested that composite were a better answer out there because PHX humidity is almost none to none.

Wood will stabilize to the environment and as it drys it shrinks. Put a subfloor heating system under hardwood and you can see some obvious shrinking in winter.

 

[snert]

I have a wlnut 40XB stock painted with automotive paint. When my gun room drops to 35% humidity it, along with my walnut 220 Swift stock shrinks. I can feel the "wiggle" when I pick them up by the barrel. Usually a 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the front screw is in order. Just did the swift last night, ironically.

 

[Bill Norris]

I have noticed that my laminated stocks and even the synthetic stocks over time will need a touch up with the torque wrench.

 

[Intheshop]

Look up, ceep(mechano-sorptive). Tough to define quantitatively,but you should get a few insights with a little research. Good luck with your project.

 

[Oso]

CZ's turkish walnut is not a very hard wood. I own a few CZ's and I have shifted to their kevlar stocks.

All wood moves as it acclimates to the environment, and this includes seasonal changes. Plywood and Laminated wood move the least as each layer acts independently. The species of wood, type of wood (heart vs. sap wood), and the grain orientation will effect how much and in what direction the wood moves.

Moisture enters and leaves the wood through exposed end-grain. Exterior finishes can retard the movement of moisture, but not completely eliminate it. As stated above epoxy (plastic coating) is the most secure seal. If you are dead serious about eliminating effect of moisture fluctuations then the coating must also cover the wood under the butt plate/pad as well as the action inletting, these are key arears of exposed end grain.

The other solution to mitigate the amount of moisture change is to keep your wood stocked rifles in a climate controlled environment (i.e. inside your house), and not outside in garage. Another solution is to pillar bed the action....this way the action and bottom metal remain firmly in place connected between a metal pillar, which limits the effect of the wood shifting (swelling/shrinking).

 

[SSL]

Moisture enters and leaves the wood through exposed end grain. Exterior finishes can retard the movement of moisture, but not completely eliminate it. As stated above epoxy (plastic coating) is the most secure seal. If you are dead serious about eliminating effect of moisture fluctuations then the coating must also cover the wood under the butt plate/pad as well as the action inletting, these are key arears of exposed end grain.

^^ This.
While it won't eliminate all shrinkage or swelling, sealing all exposed grain is important. Even though I use oil finishes, I always seal the butt and action/barrel areas with a generous coat of sealant. It's not perfect, but far better than exposed to the elements.

 

[MGYSGT]

Thanks for the info, will look into them.

Tom

 

[MislMan]

For those of us that don’t store firearms in the garage, this heat related issue also applies to those who may leave their rifles in a hot car or car trunk. You may place your rifle in the trunk when you head to work planning on hitting the shooting range later that day. With summertime heat the trunk temp could reach 150’ F or more.

 

[Tommie]

Cold water also causes shrinkage.

 

[JohnKielly]

Cold water also causes shrinkage.

But that can be repaired with a good rubbing.

 

[ebb]

SPJ NO THEY DON"T. Fools do. If you soak a wood handled hammer in a water bucket the wood swells and is tight till the water dries up then the wood strands were crushed due to the swelling and the handle is looser than it was before. If you want to tighten a hammer head add linseed oil into the the end where the head is attached. Wood stocked rifles had real problems in Vietnam and they developed a stabilization process that stopped a lot of the problems but never really cured it

 

[joshb]

Estwing! My hammer of choice for 45+ years. It’s the “one piece bolt” of hammers!

 

[Fast14riot]

I am an old school carpenter that does' and in fact i used that trick during the last few weeks of our current hot streak while working on my project, so tell this old fool as ( you call me) all about your vast experience building houses and working your Ass off from dawn to dark for barely wages all while your up nights rubbing oil on your hammer. I can hardley wait for it.

Propylene Glycol (ATF) works much better and lasts a whole lot longer. Its what I used on my axes.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Propylene Glycol (ATF) works much better and lasts a whole lot longer. Its what I used on my axes.

ATF is good for several things. It might be the best gun oil/lube ever and is a main ingredient in Ed's Red bore cleaner. Seriously, google it as a gun lube/cleaner. It has most of the pertinent attributes we want. Cheap too...compared to the commercial stuff out there.

Sorry, off topic.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

ATF is good for several things. It might be the best gun oil/lube ever and is a main ingredient in Ed's Red bore cleaner. Seriously, google it as a gun lube/cleaner. It has most of the pertinent attributes we want. Cheap too...compared to the commercial stuff out there.

Sorry, off topic.

It also looks a lot like some of the stuff out there for sale!

 

[NorCalMikie]

Stock shrinkage?? I've heard of folks in the Mid West that run a "Swamp Cooler" to humidify the air so their furniture doesn't fall apart from drying out.
Now, if you live in Florida.......