Stock Finishing

[racesnake]

Getting ready to put finish on my Precision R & T F-open stock. I'm not too keen on auto clear-coat due to health hazards and cost. Has anyone used any of the water-based urethanes? I've been playing with a product made by VariThane and it seems to have everything I'm looking for. You can even get it in a spray can. A lot of prep work has gone into this project and I want to get it right. I'm open to any suggestions.
Dave

 

[milliron]

i use minwax polyurethane semi gloss spray , get it at home depot. it holds up very well to bore solvent. it does build up more than i like and is difficult to sand along an edge . if you can seal the stock at least 2 times with with clear imron automotive clearcoat. this will help the minwax dry faster if humidity is a factor. the clearcoat can be put on with a daber doesn t need to be sprayed. thin it with lacquer rthinner. after this dries rub it down to the wood, but do not sand wood, then apply minwax, about 5 thin coats, rub down between coats with steel wool, last coat rub with auto fine compound. i use to spray but got lazy and came up with this system,can t hurt to try it as it has no linseed oil or tungoil in it so it can be covered with almost any thing else .henry

 

[firearmdoc1]

You may be able to get a local auto body shop to clear coat it for you. They could probably do it for a small fee while they are clear coating a vehicle.

 

[tinkerer]

IF its wood, start with Formby's Gloss Tung Oil until the pores are all sealed. Apply, wait 24 hours, finish sand, repeat. After that I like the Minwax Spray Poly as well. Light coats about 30 minutes apart for 3 coats, let sit for 3 days. Wet sand, repeat. Wet sand, repeat again.

For a perfect finish, rub with rubbing compound, clean very well and polish with Minwax wax and buff. Non skid dry feeling, very glossy.

If not wood, finish like a car.

Larry
Tinkerer

 

[DennisH]

Water based paints require an epoxy primer. Metals and wood must be sealed. I don't know of a sealer for wood that would do the job with automotive water based paints.

I have cleared several laminate stocks with automotive clear epoxy. You need to start with a good sealer. The first one I cleared, I put 30 coats of epoxy clear on it before it finally sealed. The wood kept soaking up the clear. 3 coats at a time, sanding between coats. My first one has to be the strongest laminate stock in the country.

My last stocks were brushed with "Gorilla Glue" first, I let them dry for 5 days, then sanded, then I started clearing. I saved a lot of money on the clear product on these! I don't remember the number, but it's was one of the best PPG clears offered at $400 per gallon! You can also use mini wax products after brushing with the Gorilla Glue.

Tinkerer might have the best idea for wood. Any other stock material (plastics) requires the proper base to accept the paint/clear. Automotive Painters know the process as they paint SMC's, Fiberglass, Plastics, and of course metals. Make sure you follow their exact procedures or you will have a stock with peeling paint.

Dennis

 

[racesnake]

First, the stock I wish to finish is wood laminate. Since posting the original thread I've had some satisfactory results. I took a piece of scrap wood and reduced a surface down to a 400 grit finish. I did not use any sealer or filler. I started by applying a coat of finish every hour for 8 hours. I let it dry overnight and then started leveling with progressively finer grit, 400 thru 2000 and finished with clearcoat polishing compound. I ended up with a entirely satisfactory finish which is looks to be the same as auto clearcoat. I will start on the stock next week. This stuff is great!

 

[model 12 toby]

I'm getting into the same thing. mines a savage laminated stock. Im not sure what I'm going to do with it. I never even thought bout how it's going to suck up paint till I just read this post. let me know what you end up doing so I know what direction you end up taking.

 

[Bob3700]

The water based wood finishes that I have used turn out a nice finish. Problem that I ran into was during the summer, the heat will soften the finish and my glove left impressions in the finish. That sucked.

Had to completely remove that because it was not hard enough. Went to automotive clear coat. That is the way to go especially if you have woods that you don't want the amber tint that the oil finishes leave. On a gray or light blonde stock, that amber tint was a huge no-no for me. Clear coat was the best answer.

You do need to seal the wood though. Thin the clear coat and paint it on with sponge brushes made for stain. Build that up and sand smooth. The clear coat sprays on nice and is easy to repair as well.

Bob

 

[model 12 toby]

i got a very experienced automotive painter I thought about calling up. I'll let him deal with it maybe. I'm just contemplating whether or not I'm going to be able to keep a custom paint job nice.

 

[racesnake]

The Varithane finish I tried is a spar polyurethane that is recommended for outside use. I wouldn't think it would soften with summer heat. I guess I'll find out.

 

[DennisH]

water based wood finishes that I have used turn out a nice finish

I didn't know the above was available.

I do know an automotive water based paint required a sealed base on all automotive parts. Personally using this product, I know it's not going to work on any bare wood.

 

[DennisH]

i got a very experienced automotive painter I thought about calling up. I'll let him deal with it maybe. I'm just contemplating whether or not I'm going to be able to keep a custom paint job nice.

Great Idea!

 

[pdhntr]

The Varithane finish I tried is a spar polyurethane that is recommended for outside use. I wouldn't think it would soften with summer heat. I guess I'll find out.

It sounds like you have found something that is working for you.

So just an FYI, I have quit using automotive clear coat all together since finding Minwax Spar polyurethane spray. (green cans)

Just great stuff. Soaks in well for a base. Dries fast. Cures in a couple weeks. After curing, it can be rubbed to a mirror like gloss or cut with various rubbing compounds for a matte or semi-gloss finish.

Jim

 

[Bob3700]

Jim,

Is this finish clear or does it have a tint? Anything with a brown or amber tint will affect the coloration of a gray or light blonde laminate.

That is why I went with the automotive clear coat.

Bob

 

[racesnake]

Jim...Min-Wax makes a oil- based and a water-based spar poly in a green can. Which one do you use?

 

[pdhntr]

Jim,

Is this finish clear or does it have a tint? Anything with a brown or amber tint will affect the coloration of a gray or light blonde laminate.

That is why I went with the automotive clear coat.

Bob

Yes Bob, this has a tint. I haven't had to do any of the dyed laminates for quit some time, so it hasn't been a problem.

That is an issue that must be considered.

Jim

 

[pdhntr]

Jim...Min-Wax makes a oil- based and a water-based spar poly in a green can. Which one do you use?

The place I get the green cans from doesn't carry the water based so I didn't know that. Its the "oil based" stuff.

Jim

 

[w123driver]

I recently finished maple stock that I didn't want to to have amber hue. I sealed it with Minwax sanding sealer with final 600 grit dry sanding. I think sealing is essential for for any wood stock. I finished with Arm-R-Seal Polyacrylic finish and it is great. Rock hard and crystal clear. Very easy to apply with foam brush and sands very easily - wont clog sandpaper. It is water based finish but works just fine with oil based sealers and basecoat. I used it on a walnut stock that i sealed with pure tung oil and looks great. Word of caution: Use OSHA N95 particle mask when sanding any acrylic finish, whether woodworking or automotive, as polyacrylamide is carcenogenic.

 

[racesnake]

Well, I've started - 3 coats on today. Went on real smooth. Some more nice things about this finish - viscosity is about perfect for spraygun application and gun clean-up is with water. I will try to keep everyone up to date as I proceed.

 

[model 12 toby]

i have a savage laminated wood stock. what's it going to do if I sand the hell out of it and spray it down with alumahyde?