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Stock finishing?

I am wondering what and how anyone has finsihed their Boyds Laminant stocks with? I was thinking about spraying some minwax poly? Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

James
 
James,

We finished a Richard's Microfit Laminate stock with Minwax poly, brush-on variety satin, diluted with mineral spirits. We found it soaked into the wood too much, took excessive time to dry between coats and eventually we saw some yellowing. If we do it again, we'd use some kind of sealer first and probably try a different product. Others may have a different experience--we can't claim to be finishing experts. Just saying that, following the product directions, we were disappointed. Also the Microfit stock had very course and open grain even after much laborious sanding. NOTE: Microfit is NOT not the same as Richard's Custom Rifles in Virginia, whose stocks are far superior to Richard's Microfit of CA in our view.
 
Good to hear about the Richards Rifle Stocks as opposed to the Microfit variety. I am in the market for a laminate and was wandering how hard to finish out the stock. Thanks for the heads up on the Minwax.

I have had terrible luck with tung oil and any type of poly. I can get it to seal the grain, just the last coat never seems to get real smooth. Either rubbed to thin and brush stroked appearance, or thick enough to level out and trapping lint or a sag in the finish.
 
This is what I've done with several stocks with great sucess. boliled linseed oil thinned down with 2:1.
Wipe on liberally, let stand 10 minutes and wipe off.
Do this on 2 seperate days allow BLO to dry.
Follow with 2-3 or 10 coats of Arm-R-Seal.

Doesn't get much easier than that.
And easy to repair if necessary as well.

Michael
 
Had one finished by a friend who is a car painter, He used automotive clear coat, it looks really good, seems very durable and is said to be totally water proof.
Regards
Paul
 
I'll third automotive clear coat, gives a nice shinny coat, and really brings out the colors.
 
I use automotive urethanes on wood all the time... I also like it for it gives you more variety like tinting with candy coats or pearl coats. To take one to show quality it takes ~3 clear sessions sanding each one back down so you are using the clear as a filler in the grain etc then sand and buff the last session.
 

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Kav,

That bottom one is a definite Gun of the Week candidate. What's the chambering? Laminate never looked so good and we haven't done an MBR yet...
 
I am not sure of the chambering or who owns the gun any longer... I believe it was a 6 Ackley and changed to a 6.5X284.

Mr Wilkerson.. got your PM I will shoot you an email asap. Kav
 
Kav said:
I use automotive urethanes on wood all the time... I also like it for it gives you more variety like tinting with candy coats or pearl coats. To take one to show quality it takes ~3 clear sessions sanding each one back down so you are using the clear as a filler in the grain etc then sand and buff the last session.

I would like the stock to have a satin finish. Would it be best to get satin clear coat or get gloss clear coat and then scratch the surface with a buffer or really fine sandpaper?
 
Kav... I have in the past had a delaminating problem when using auto urethane clears directly on wood. Have you experienced any problems along this line? Problem went away after I found the correct barrier coat. Regards...g
 
Hammer47 said:
Kav... I have in the past had a delaminating problem when using auto urethane clears directly on wood. Have you experienced any problems along this line? Problem went away after I found the correct barrier coat. Regards...g

I have never experienced the problem you describe. Not sure how the clear would attack the laminates for most clears use minimal to no reducers. Also, clear doesn't soak in that deep so can't see how it would cause one to come apart. Sorry I am of no help Now I have had to fix some laminates on some stocks before that were not fully glued but that is expected when you have so many laminates stuck together. You can avoid some problems by using a resin coat prior to clearing and it fills any voids. Take care
 
I really like Arrow's wood finish. It will seal, fill, and weatherproof it as well as give it a very durable oil finish all out of the same bottle as well as you can do a matte or gloss finish by the grit og sandpaper you use to rub it dry with. If your interested in it, check out shootersolution.com
 
Well i have just done my Mastin laminated stock and it came up quite nice thats it on the Homepage.Gave the stock a rub over with 600 grit then some 800grit where it needed hung it in the sun till it warmed up then gave it a good coat of Birchwood Casey TRU-OIL and hung back in the sun till dry which doesn't take too long at all but i give it a couple of hrs then rub it over with fine steel wool or green washing up scourer and then another coat and back into the sun put inside overnight the when you get the warmth the next day same thing again i gave it six coats looks pretty good to me. Have attached a before and after was going to give it a light stain but decide to leave as is for starters and not only that with the tru-Oil i can strip it off easily with oven cleaner and start again if i decide to change with a stain.
 

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