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Stock Finish Help

Hoekight

Silver $$ Contributor
I’ve just completed (kinda) the rifle of my dreams and I have did it all myself… From the barrel, fire control and inleting the stock from flat top to perfect fit. I bought a Dima stock and need to put a finish on it. I’m kinda hung up between Polyurethane and automotive clear coat. I have no idea what the fancy stock makers, or many of you with beautiful rifles use, so I figured I’d ask. What makes the best shine and is the most durable? I really want a thick shiny coat. Thanks in advance.
Dwayne
 
There are a few things you can get a shiny coat with but how much work do you want to do? You can clear it, use solarez if you want it done quick, minwax antique oil or even cyanoacrylate.
If you want a tough, glossy finish, i would do the automotive clear if that's what you like.
 
I’ve just completed (kinda) the rifle of my dreams and I have did it all myself… From the barrel, fire control and inleting the stock from flat top to perfect fit. I bought a Dima stock and need to put a finish on it. I’m kinda hung up between Polyurethane and automotive clear coat. I have no idea what the fancy stock makers, or many of you with beautiful rifles use, so I figured I’d ask. What makes the best shine and is the most durable? I really want a thick shiny coat. Thanks in advance.
Dwayne
Dwayne
I can tell you what to use and how to do it, but frankly it may not come out like mine, then again it might.
I totally understand you wanting to finish it yourself, and I'm more than willing to guide you, but you should know it takes me 15-20 hours over the corse of 3-4 weeks to complete a project.
Here's a sample of some stocks shipped this month dyes, candies, automotive colors and just clear.
Dyes with candy 2 colors
20250708_164023.jpgjust black n blue dye20250707_164832.jpgstencils with automotive colors 20250626_091811.jpgsponge painted with automotive and sky blue candy20250626_092316.jpgjust clear20250619_211112.jpg
Feel free to give a holler, and yes I make it look easier than it actually is.
 

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A couple folks have mentioned a rattle can product that works well and is easy for a novice. Bc’z? LVArron? I kinda remember you two talking about it.
Epoxy works well but you have to make a spinner to avoid drips, as the clear type takes 24 hours to harden. I’ll see if I can find the pics.

Add: Found it on page 73-75ish of the Do It Yourself Stockmaking thread down in the Gunsmithing section.
IMG_1671.pngIMG_1669.png
 
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A couple folks have mentioned a rattle can product that works well and is easy for a novice. Bc’z? LVArron? I kinda remember you two talking about it.
Epoxy works well but you have to make a spinner to avoid drips, as the clear type takes 24 hours to harden. I’ll see if I can find the pics.
Total Boat penatrating epoxy can be used easy enough to fill pores and grain, probably will need 2-3 applications sanding in between each, then use Spray max 2k urethane clear for finish.
I believe Amazon has it in a 2 can package for the least amount of $$.
The total boat can be applied with a brush i believe, I'd probably try 1 of them sponge brushes.
 
Total Boat penatrating epoxy can be used easy enough to fill pores and grain, probably will need 2-3 applications sanding in between each, then use Spray max 2k urethane clear for finish.
I believe Amazon has it in a 2 can package for the least amount of $$.
The total boat can be applied with a brush i believe, I'd probably try 1 of them sponge brushes.
That’s it! Spray Max 2k. You da man!
Those sponge brushes suck! I use the cheap utility brushes and toss them after. The spinner is the secret schiz for epoxy.
 
Total Boat penatrating epoxy can be used easy enough to fill pores and grain, probably will need 2-3 applications sanding in between each, then use Spray max 2k urethane clear for finish.
I believe Amazon has it in a 2 can package for the least amount of $$.
The total boat can be applied with a brush i believe, I'd probably try 1 of them sponge brushes.
IMG_5030.jpegIf that’s what you’re talking about that’s what I bought to try after I fill the pores and get the grain flat.
 
Dwayne
I can tell you what to use and how to do it, but frankly it may not come out like mine, then again it might.
I totally understand you wanting to finish it yourself, and I'm more than willing to guide you, but you should know it takes me 15-20 hours over the corse of 3-4 weeks to complete a project.
Here's a sample of some stocks shipped this month dyes, candies, automotive colors and just clear.
Dyes with candy 2 colors
View attachment 1676377just black n blue dyeView attachment 1676378stencils with automotive colors View attachment 1676381sponge painted with automotive and sky blue candyView attachment 1676379just clearView attachment 1676382
Feel free to give a holler, and yes I make it look easier than it actually is.
@Bc'z that is some super super sweet looking work. I want to do this one by myself and thanks for the input, but the next one I want every piece professionally done and it looks like you might get my stock business if you’d take it. That’s stuff is really really nice.
 
View attachment 1676391If that’s what you’re talking about that’s what I bought to try after I fill the pores and get the grain flat.
Yessir that the stuff.
Spray even wet coats allow proper flash times between coats, you can test it for recoat time by touching tape where bedding is masked if its wet wait, you want to see what I call cotton candy "stringy" when you lift your finger off tape.
Airflow is critical for moving the solvents off of film build allowing it to flash properly.
Give it 4 good coats, this should give you enough material for a light cut and polish to remove orange peel and dust nibs.
Store your left over spray max in the fridge after activation when your done spraying to extend its pot life, but don't try and use it til its come back to ambient temperature.
 
There are a few things you can get a shiny coat with but how much work do you want to do? You can clear it, use solarez if you want it done quick, minwax antique oil or even cyanoacrylate.
If you want a tough, glossy finish, i would do the automotive clear if that's what you like.
I want to put in every effort needed for it to turn out right. I do want it all. This stock has some extremely pretty grain so I didn’t want it stained. I just want a clear gloss on it.
 
Yessir that the stuff.
Spray even wet coats allow proper flash times between coats, you can test it for recoat time by touching tape where bedding is masked if its wet wait, you want to see what I call cotton candy "stringy" when you lift your finger off tape.
Airflow is critical for moving the solvents off of film build allowing it to flash properly.
Give it 4 good coats, this should give you enough material for a light cut and polish to remove orange peel and dust nibs.
Store your left over spray max in the fridge after activation when your done spraying to extend its pot life, but don't try and use it til its come back to ambient temperature.
Thank you. You’ve gave me more information in 30 minutes than I’ve found in 2 weeks of looking. Thank you very much.
 
I'll pm you my phone number
You'll learn more in 30 minutes talking with BC'z than some people learn in a lifetime!

You found the right group, soak up the knowledge and don't be afraid to experiment... save all the cut offs you can, they are great practice pieces.

Several applications of black, sanded back to bring out some steal blue/silver and natural maple... needs about a dozen coats of Tung oil before its finished.
20250708_235547.jpg
 
I want to put in every effort needed for it to turn out right. I do want it all. This stock has some extremely pretty grain so I didn’t want it stained. I just want a clear gloss on it.

Just an FYI, don't discount dyes (not stains) for bringing out the patterns in grain structure. Best layman's explanation I've heard for dying figured grain, is think of a puck of ramen noodles. If you sand it flat, where the noodles bend over and turn back into the puck (wood) will soak up the die and the places in between won't. This gives the contrast many people like.

Give Brett a holler, but charge your phone first.
 
A couple folks have mentioned a rattle can product that works well and is easy for a novice. Bc’z? LVArron? I kinda remember you two talking about it.
Epoxy works well but you have to make a spinner to avoid drips, as the clear type takes 24 hours to harden. I’ll see if I can find the pics.

Add: Found it on page 73-75ish of the Do It Yourself Stockmaking thread down in the Gunsmithing section.
View attachment 1676388View attachment 1676389
I love seeing your work.
I use Total Boat slow epoxy as a clear bondo. Lol
Filling missing grain with total boat20250705_114833.jpgI'll also mix in some dry pearl to fill and add character to special features and beautify repairs.20250704_135037.jpg
 
Just an FYI, don't discount dyes (not stains) for bringing out the patterns in grain structure. Best layman's explanation I've heard for dying figured grain, is think of a puck of ramen noodles. If you sand it flat, where the noodles bend over and turn back into the puck (wood) will soak up the die and the places in between won't. This gives the contrast many people like.

Give Brett a holler, but charge your phone first.
Loving that laugh.
I needed that brother!
 
Yessir that the stuff.
Spray even wet coats allow proper flash times between coats, you can test it for recoat time by touching tape where bedding is masked if its wet wait, you want to see what I call cotton candy "stringy" when you lift your finger off tape.
Airflow is critical for moving the solvents off of film build allowing it to flash properly.
Give it 4 good coats, this should give you enough material for a light cut and polish to remove orange peel and dust nibs.
Store your left over spray max in the fridge after activation when your done spraying to extend its pot life, but don't try and use it til its come back to ambient temperature.
Sounds like EXCELENT, KNOWLEDGEABLE BEEN THERE DONE IT advice.
As my Bud and pistol coach said in the 70s, well before the internet: "Good information is hard to come by."
The above sounds like the motherload.
 
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