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Stock Adapter to Provide 3" Width

Just a little project I’ve been thinking about building and finally got around to doing it. This fits my A3/5 or A5 McMillan Stocks so now I can put them in a 3 inch front bag rest and play around. Not completely done yet, just thought I’d share.
Chrome: Obviously you are an accomplished machinist. Can you tell me how you went about machining the taper into your adapter to account for the forearm taper? Do you recall what angle you used? I have tried something like this in the past, but never as intricate as yours. My problems besides forearm angle was getting the plate truly level on the stock. I found many typical sporter or hunting type stocks don't have the sling points centered and when you mount a plate to them the rifle is canted. Thanks.

Rick H.
 
I have used 6" sections of 3" steel structural channel for benchrest testing rifles with smaller tapered forearms. Drill and countersink a hole in the channel to fit the front rifle sling hole, match the thread pitch, coat the rifle with wax, and bed the rifle with the channel at your preferred angle with bedding compound or Bondo. Cheap and easy, one for each rifle.
 
I have used 6" sections of 3" steel structural channel for benchrest testing rifles with smaller tapered forearms. Drill and countersink a hole in the channel to fit the front rifle sling hole, match the thread pitch, coat the rifle with wax, and bed the rifle with the channel at your preferred angle with bedding compound or Bondo. Cheap and easy, one for each rifle.
With release agent (wax) on both the stock and adapter, I could make a Bondo custom sleeve for each of several rifles.
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I bought one of these. It's not pretty but works wel

Yea, these work really well on hunting rifles that have a hole for a sling mount to attach.
And that's why I use one. It works great on for ends that do not have totally flat bottoms.
 
I have one. It helps stabilize but if the bottom of the forend is not parallel to the bore axis (and few sporter stocks are) then fore/aft shifts of the rifle on the bag front translates into big elevation changes on target. I use a wooden wedge up front to try to minimize the foot angle, but it's far from satisfactory.
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Well, it's not a sporter stock nor is a full blown bench rest stock, and I have not noticed any of the anomaly's you have.
Your comment begs the question on all the other examples given on this post.
Do they all make sure that the " the bottom of the forend is parallel to the bore axis?"
 
Chrome: Obviously you are an accomplished machinist. Can you tell me how you went about machining the taper into your adapter to account for the forearm taper? Do you recall what angle you used? I have tried something like this in the past, but never as intricate as yours. My problems besides forearm angle was getting the plate truly level on the stock. I found many typical sporter or hunting type stocks don't have the sling points centered and when you mount a plate to them the rifle is canted. Thanks.

Rick H.
Rick,

actually, I did not taper it to the forend. It is square. Which means when you look down at the front it is closer in the front, opposed to the back. I did add another hole with a thread insert so the two center holes in the stock would match to the plate. So it really doesn’t matter if it’s tapered or not its going to be square on both sides on the outside where it meets the front 3” bag. I could have done a taper but was just playing around. I just used 3” Chanel and machined from there. To get a tape or I would have had to use a solid top and Machine the angle to match the stock. This was just something quick and easy that I thought would work.
 
Do they all make sure that the " the bottom of the forend is parallel to the bore axis?"
I use a brass rod through the bore and action to check for
parallel of both the front and rear riders. I'll use washer inserts
at the back of the action do take care of any drop in the rod.
I'll recheck with a 4 ft. machinist scale.
 
You do something that will work with a Boyds At-one stock?
OH yes. Don't laugh but it works like a champ. I cut a piece of cheap laminate flooring the width of my the bag (in my case 2-1/2") and about 12 inches long. Lightly sand the cut edges to remove saw marks. Then drilled through in the same location as the forearm screws and countersunk it. Went to Home depot and got a pair of stainless screws (Flat Head) and screwed it tight right on top of the cheap plastic forearm.
At first I got laughed at (Including myself) , but when you feel how slick it is, that stopped. Never had to wax it or anything, that stuff is as slick as snott on a doorknob.
 
Mwerks LLC used to make a really nice track plate for the Winchester 52 C,D, and E. It was actually sloped to accommodate the slope, or angle in the M52 target stock. Unfortunately the owner pulled the plug on his business when Covid hit hard and all production ceased. I was lucky enough to have purchased two of the Mwerks track plates. It would be great if someone would pick up this design and bring them back, perhaps for other rifles too. Most of the other track plates on the market do nothing to account for the angle of a forearm which can be problematic.

Rick H.
 
I went with the SInclair model # 749-011-468 because of the Anschutz rail on my X-ring stock. It fits well and rides the bag perfectly. Only drawback I've seen is as mentioned earlier you have to beef-up the rear bag base in order to get enough height to work with the front rest.

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You are correct.. This is one of the reasons I design in an offset to
get the barrel as close as possible to the bag. I have another one
on the drawing board that will actually put the barrel below the
top edge of the bag. Of course I'll have Protekor sew me up a
custom bag.
Fuj, I have an older McMillen BR stock 3" wide. Could you make a bag rider like this to fit my stock?
 

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